jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

hey guys we finally got my diff mounted but we thought it was be easier to do it with both front subframe mounts disconnected (i later foudn that its best with just the drivers side off)

so now we got the diff all bolted up and we cant get the subframe holes over both studs at the same time... is there physically any way to do this??? this is mind boggling

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

This just happend to me on a friends car. I think we just had one person push foward on the subframe and then we popped it up. My memory is a little hazzy on the whole process though. Best bet would be to just play with it.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Well I had just reinstalled my subframe about a month ago, and my god let me tell you its NOT FUN doing it by yourself. My situation was alittle different, I had the control arms off as well.

Anyways heres my advice, assuming you have all four bolting points off, TRY the BEST you can raising the subframe evenly as if it was bolted in place. I did it by myself this way although It sounds like you have help, so one person man the jack and the rear and the other man the two fronts.

The key is to bring it up in unison... hope that helps......

MtnRacer

Loosen the back nuts as low as they'll go and it should line up fine. If you've got more than 1 person, and a nice jack, and you still can't get it to line up, drop the whole subframe and then reinstall. It's not nearly as difficult as legend claims.

Steve

M5150

haha just happened 2 nights ago to me and my friend, just disconnect the front diff bolts and itll all come together

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The KEY is to BALANCE the whole assembly, front to back and side to side, as it goes up. Two jacks are certainly necessary, and 2 sets of hands helpful but not required. The 2 rearend mounts should line up first, then as it goes farther up the 2 subframe mounts should line up. They have a little play in them, they are flexible. Use a long socket extension to get them to line up.

GET ALL 4 HOLES STARTED, THEN jack it all the rest of the way up.

SureShot

I was working by myself with 1 jack.

I cut some scrap 2x4 lumber to make (lever & fulcrum) jack between the carrier casting & the back of the wheel house.

I then pryed it forward & jacked it up onto the studs.

vaughnc

I'm doing this right now and the service manual is NO help.

I've got 6 jack stands, a portable hydrolic jack, and two 1x4x36 planks to hold the differtial, subframel, and rear A-arms. The trick I believe is to get the subframe & differential parallel and lowered about 4-6 inches. That way you can get a wratchet & stockets in there to tighted & torque the diff bushing bolts to the subframe.

Don't forget to install the dual-bolt washer/bracket before tightening the diff-bushing bolts down to the subframe. I think the bolting the diff bushing to the differentail requires 70ft-lbs, which may require 2 people to pull off. I think the diff-bushing subframe bolts only require 45ft-lbs, but I might be wrong.

If the subframe or diff won't go onto those "hanging down from the carbody" bolts , you might need to push-up on the subframe where the sub-link connects (aka body to differential end-link). I used a jackstand & plank to pry on this area and it's near impossible to push up by hand.

neevosh

I did it by myself with just a jack. The hardest part is finding the balance point of everything. It should just pop into place with a little shifting. Maybe something is caught, preventing it from lining up.