Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

Okay, well, I have a 90 S5 TII. If I don't get this thing running anytime soon, I might just part it out and buy a stock TII and lose a lot of money and the performance parts I already have on it. I already parted my first car out because of a bad eccentric shaft. I got fuel, spark, good compression (over 100 psi on both rotors), and I have done the CAS aligning a million times and it still doesn't want to fire up. It just spins and spins and spins but doesnt want to start. It started before a month ago when I was trying to figure why my fuel pump had no power. WTF? I got everything so what is wrong? I should mention that I ghetto rigged the fuel pump by supplying power to the blue wire from the battery and using a switch to turn it on and off. Is that the way you are supposed to do direct injection? Fuel goes into the engine. If not, that might be my problem. I was told that it wouldn't work that way because nothing is controlling the fuel. If the way I did it is ok, then I'm pretty much stuck. I'm broke and in debt. Plus there's no shop here in Fresno that works with Rotaries. I can't even find a place in LA or BayArea that works on rotaries. If someone knows, let me know. Even so, I might not have enough money, thinking they will charge a lot for labor. So should I just part it out and hopefully get $4000 and buy a stock TII or does it have a chance of running and i should keep it. It's been over 4 months of work and I can't get it to run. I been waiting for over 1 1/2 years to have drive a S5 TII, and the last 7 I had that was running was a S5 NA over 2 years ago. I really want to get my S5 TII running. It stresses me that I can't get it to go. I might just go get a civic because its so easy to fix........LOL! JK. But yea, tell me what you think.

mazda se

iTrader: (1)

so are u saying ur fuel pump isnt working?????

n/a-luvr

no fuel = bad afm? ~rich

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

well i did direct injection(ghetto rig) to the fuel pump which is running off the battery, so Im getting fuel, but my friend said I had to make a connection to two other wires and one to the ecu, so the ecu can control the fuel. but he hasnt had time to come by and help. I was wondering if I did it wrong. I stated how i did it on the first post. I was wondering if i did it wrong. My friend says so. Well, I was just thinking if even his way doesnt work, would you guys part it out if it was yours concerning you had my situation too. My friend says the way i did, the fuel is goin in for a second and it is coming out right away, because the ecu needs to control it. I dont know that much about electrical, so I wanted to ask you guys if I did it wrong. Well, I'm just anxious to have a S5 TII running and I have been waiting for a long time and am not sure if I should part it out and find one which will be stock for like $4000+. The sorry thing is that I lose all the performance upgrades that I have bought and that means I lost al lot of wasted money. Plus the car I find might not have good compression like mine.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

you have to have the wires for ECU signals hooked when required by anything.

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

if you have all these parts etc? why dont you just rebuild her?

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

So you are saying I did direct injection wrong?

The engine doesn't need a rebuild. I got very good compression. I don't know what it is. I got spark, fuel, compression, and timing. It could be that I did direct injection wrong. Tournapart says something about ECU signals, and my friend said something about the ECU, but he hasnt had time to come by. I was wondering if it was anything else, because I might just quit and part it out if I cant figure it out.

snowball

well if you part out PM me price for front bumper and all the moulding

mazda se

iTrader: (1)

Well the first thing i would is do hook it all up back to stock, then a ground integrity check on the fuel pump.Then see if the fuel pump is getting power at the connector at the shock tower.If not trace the wires all the way back to the fuel pump relay which is located under the dash just to the right of the steering coloum.If youve got power going to the relay and 0.00 ohms between the wiring from the fuel pump and the relay you should have no problem.Now if thew car isnt starting then go to radio shack and get an LED.Then ull need a small pin to back probe the computer connecter for the injectors to see if the drivers in the computer are working.Then do it at the injectors.But to do this u have to remove the fuel pump relay and have someone turnover the car.I hat to see another FC getting parted out.Dont do it.If u need anyhelp pm me and i can walk u through all the electrical tests.


jake

HAILERS

You can't fix a car without a digital meter.

You NEED to get a meter and see if your getting power to the ECU and the fuel injectors.

A RX will Start (not stay running) without the afm connected up. The start fuel is determined by a *map* in the ECU and is independent of the afm when Starting.

You need to get a digital meter. You need to determine if the coil assy's are getting 12vdc and if the Main Relay is feeding the 12vdc to the ECU.

You need to determine if the EGI INJ and the EGI COMP fuses are good and if the ENGINE FUSE in the interior is good. The ENGINE FUSE in the interior determines if the Main Relay gets pulled in and if the Circuit Opening Relay gets pulled in to feed the fuel pump.

You NEED a digital meter.

The way your pump is working is sort of ok, but does not power the fuel injectors.

Your lack of fuel pump action originally means that the fuel pump resistor relay package was'nt getting power from the Circuit Opening Relay which in turn was'nt getting power from either the Start circuit when the key was held to START or the Main Relay wasn't being pulled in when you put the key to On, possibly because the ENGINE FUES was blown.

No meter? Dump the car in the junk yard.

white88turboII

actually dude there is a place in the bay that works on rotories..... www.ricksrotary.com its located in pleasanton,ca cutthroat.... yadidimean

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

how much is a digital multi meter? Well, I know that the circuit opening relay isn't getting power. Sorry, for the lack of electrical knowledge, I kinda suck at it. I had some rotary heads try to help me out too, but they couldn't figure it out. Can anyone come by and help me in Fresno, CA? I might consider taking it to ricksrotary, but thats pretty far too for a tow. So I still want to know, they way I made the fuel pump work, is that not enough to make the car start.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure what you were saying earlier that your friend suggested. But anyway, the fuel pump has little to do with the ECU, the ecu just triggers a relay and tells it to turn on, that's it. If you turn it on and leave it running (with constant power), that's fine. However, if your ECU is broke, your injectors don't work/aren't getting power/etc, it won't start. The problem with fixing rotaries is people don't really troubleshoot them very well and they go all crazy thinking their so much different than a piston engine. Start with the basics. Obviously, check compression first. Then check for spark (just take a spare spark plug and check each wire near the strut bolts. Then force your fuel pump to run (either run wire like you did, or jumper the test connector which should do the same thing in effect), check the fuel return line (take it out and jam it in a bucket, turn the key to on and then off), check and see if your getting fuel going TO the return (don't check the feed line, it does you no good! you can have fuel getting to the feed line and going into the rail, but not provide enough pressure to get past the FPR, this obviously won't start, so check the return). After that, now you've eliminated some of the more obvious problems, now it's time to verify that your injectors actually fire, sometimes you can verify by gas on the spark plugs, but you can't always tell. Use a DMM and probe them and see (you'll be hard pressed to test at the injectors themselves, so start at the ECU), if that's good then either your injectors aren't injecting enough fuel, or your timing is extremely far off, or the ECU/wiring harness is bad. That's pretty much it for basic troubleshooting, that should at least get you to figuring out what's not working.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

hey... how far is fresno from the east bay? is it near hayward? im going to be donw near hayward this coming weekend, so if it is near, i could give you a hand!

Valkyrie

about 20 bucks

HAILERS

The Circuit Opening Relay only pulls in when the key is HELD TO START or the engine starts and the fuel switch in the afm *makes*. So you could pull the SMALL wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump run. No fuel pump running? Then see the paragraph below.

So what you NEED to do, is jumper the yellow fuel check connector near the right strut tower and afm, with a paper clip or??? and turn the key to ON. IF you do not hear the fuel pump, then check the ENGINE fuse in the interior and the EGI COMP, EGI INJ fuses in the engine bay.

EDIT: I assume the rewire you did on the fuel pump didn't include the Circuit Opening Relay. Now that I think about it, what I wrote above won't make sense unless you return the wiring at the fuel pump back to normal. OH well. At least you should be able to feel the Circuit Opening RElay pull in when you put the key to START and hold it there.

calrx7

you said the engine cranks but wont start rite? im thinking its the afm because my car had the same problem

iono.. if that aint the problem, get the multimeter and check all the sensors

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

Hey, this is Bobby, I bought the TII Hood from you. Fresno is 93 miles from hayward and 169 miles from walnut creek.


Well, I got good compression, and i got spark. I am not using the fuel relay, constant power is a wire from the battery to the blue wire on the fuel pump harness with a switch in between. Well, I will check the return line and try to get a hold of a dmm

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

I have done everything you have said already and all fuses are good and the fuel pump or the circuit relay both aren't turning on. And no its not the parts because i used working fuel pumps and circuit opening relays from a working car. And I didn't do anything to the fuel pump wiring. Its the same. All I did was connect a wire to the blue wire to give it constant power to the battery. All I have to do is take off the wire and its normal wiring. Maybe I should take some pictures, because it seems a lot of people don't get what I'm trying to say.

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

Ok, there is fuel coming out of the return line. As soon as I flip the switch the fuel is coming out of the fuel line. Did I mention the car did start before. But thats before it got rained on in the engine bay. But I doubt anything got messed up, because I get spark still, and engine is cranking. Here are some pics of my direct injection:

http://www.geocities.com/azn_gamer_thug/di1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/azn_gamer_thug/di2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/azn_gamer_thug/di3.jpg

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Good, so you can eliminate your fuel pump/fuel pump wiring. You have spark at all 4 plugs? (sure your plug wires are on properly? to the right rotor? right orientation?) I know it's silly, but having this off can make the car VERY difficult to start.

Next you need to test your injectors and your ECU's basic functions.

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

I got spark at all 4, I have tested. I am gonna try the injector test, but how do i test the ecu basic functions?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

If you have the FSM, there's a section in the fuel and emisssions group, that talks about the ECU, basically it says each pin, what it does, and what it should look like with the KEY on/car running, test all of the pins and make sure everything is within spec.

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

so the car has to be running or just to the on position?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It'll list both, you'll be checking the ones with the key set to ON. It'll have two columns with the specs for each.