chris406

For Scathcart. I feel like maybe you are bashing just a little bit. I myself am no noob to nitrous. It is easy to tell by the pictures that some things were overlooked, namely the prettyness of the install, it was done maybe not wisely, very quickly. I assure you, however the system was installed properly and performs exactly the way it was intended to. As for the 6ports being wired open, many people have that done, if they didn't we'd have never have known to do it. we're aware of all the options for the 6 port activation. detonation scares the hell out of me to i've hammered my share of main bearing in a sbc before. If you think there is a better way to operate the 6 ports that pertains the nitrous use by all means let me know. The engine only backfired once on the old motor. To my knowledge my roomate, bottlejockey has only used the nitrous on the engine once when i was with him, it detonated for a split second and he let out of it. And as for the octane booster it will work. I have plenty of experience with race cars. I can say from personal experience that adding octane boost should fix his problem, other wise we'll just put some VP in the tank. The comment about proper nitrous tuning is ridiculous, your assuming to much, and have no idea about my experience tuning nitrous systems. Don't take this the wrong way, i appreciate your comments, anything to get this back to a tech forum

scathcart

I question tuning because I do this kind of stuff all the time. I have countless cars built by me running nitrous systems.

What fuel pressure and nitrous pressures do you tune for, and what jets? What systems do you have set-up to maintain bottle pressure? What systems do you have set-up to verify fuel pressure under nitrous injection? What are your WOT air/fuel ratios measured via wideband oxygen sensor under normal conditions and under nitrous conditions (and what type of sensor)? What ignition timing are you using?
For some reason I doubt you have good answers to any of these questions, and your results (backfire/detonation) are a good indicator of this.
While the system may perform exactly via the way it was designed, I am yet to see a nitrous kit that was designed perfectly. Too many factors are left out.

Here's an easy fix for making sure the auxilary ports open under all nitrous conditions (though not the exact system I use): hook up an electric airpump and trigger it from the master arm switch. Ports will work normally whenever nitrous is off, and then always be open when the master switch is armed. Costs all of $15.

chris406

Your correct, i don't know answers to half of the questions you gave. I know that the kit is designed to be used the way we installed it, whether it is perfect or not. This is not an all out application and i think dyno tuning is a little overkill for his current problem. I must restate that the old engine only backfired once before the 6 ports were activated. The new engine has only detonated for a split second one time, this was on 87 octane. The fuel pump is the walbro unit and the fuel supply to the solenoid comes from the main line. The kit is designed to have bottle pressures ranging from 900psi to 1100psi. His was at 1050psi. As for the fuel pressure i don't know. I realize that on a 1.3l engine a 50 shot is about one third of his horsepower but it is still only a fifty shot right. How much nitrous are your cars running? The nitrous jets were as reccomended, I actually believe that the octane boost or race gas will fix the detonation, but i may try playing with the fuel jets. I'll call john phillip's at NX east and see what he thinks, we talk alot.