Check the Throttle Position Sensor setting. A variety of instructions for doing this are contained in the FAQ. My personal favorite is the two light bulbs. After setting it, rev the engine a couple of times to let everything settle back into place, and re-check it. You may even want to take the car for a quick drive and re-check the setting. An incorrectly set TPS seems to be the most frequent idle culprit. Make sure you get it right.


can i reset the tps to see if thats the problem, i didnt get it right reading this, and i didnt found the instructions to do it.... someone can help me plz

 

1 engine full warmed turn it off and leave key on "ON" position
2 disconnect tps
3 connect multimeter device to green wire with the red needle and black wire to black needle
4 turn meter device to ohms
5 Closed throttle should be 1k ohms while WOT should be around 4-5k Ohms.

There's also a section in the FSM for setting this.

 

thank you very much for this, im not sure what you mean by WOT but ill try to figure it out, if you can give this section you are talking about it would be awesome, ill try to find it

 

WOT means "wide open throttle" Hope you get it fixed.

 

ya if you follow that exactly should have it fixed in no time man

 

if i do that it will reset my tps?? just doing that?? checking ohms?? anyway thank you guys thats awesome! i would try to do that , come and check this post eventually to answer you how it goes, if it work ok i dont have to buy it and bring it to my country (peru) cause i already did it and it was very complicated

 

No one answered your original question about resetting the TPS. No, you don't need to do anything to reset it. You do need to get it properly set, and like you've found out, there are at least 3 ways to do this. I usually do the initial check and set using the OHM meter and get it set to 1KOHM (engine fully warmed up). Then I'll hook up the lights to make sure only one lights up as a check.

Once you get this done, go back and set your idle speed to 750. Ground (or short depending on S4 or S5) the initial set connector and crank the engine. Adjust the idle by turning the screw on top of the throttle body.

You should also check the function of the TPS from time to time. With the OHM meter hooked up, slowly open the throttle and watch the readings. They should climb steadily from the 1000 OHM setting at idle setting to 5000 OHMS at WOT. If not then your TPS is probably shot and needs to be replaced. Don't be alarmed when the reading reaches 5000 OHMS and the throttle is only half way towards fully open. This is normal.

 

i think my tps was bad, i just got another one for a miracle... i just put it and it keeps appearing the "check" thing.... I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the ecu to see if the problem keep going... the car is better, bad the check light still on... unless there is other thing bad (crap) ... do i have to do what you just said to me chuck? setting the tps?

 

When you replace the TPS, you then have to adjust it to 1000 OHMS as described above. Then you have to adjust the idle speed.

 

You have a Engine Check Light coming on. That does not mean the TPS is the culprit. You need to check the codes out to see just What is causing the Engine Check Light.

I guess this is a series five car. You didn't say one way or the other earlier. The codes are in the FUEL and EMISSIONS chapter of the series FIVE FSM.

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/89-91_Error_Codes

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/FC_Maintenance

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/Main_Page

 

Got this from FC3S Pro

Code 06 - Throttle sensor.
DCC1: LS P ... (1 long light ... 1 short light ... long pause ... repeat)
DCC2: does not light
Fail-safe mode: The ECU assumes 100% throttle position.
Comments: This is the TPS and it is located underneath the intercooler


Would this cause the engine to flood at start up?

 

I'd say no. TPS isn't used for fuel during startup nor is the afm. Fuel is predetermined by internal fuel map in the ECU which is influenced by the water thermo sensor, rpm and seeing the Start signal from the ignition.

Other than the internal start map of the ECU during Start, the afm is the Main player used for fuel delivery over 500rpms when driving/idling etc.

 

The car is flooding at start up. Just rebuilt, compression good, new water thermo sensor, spark good, injectors cleaned. Don't know what else to think that would cause this problem. The first start up after rebuild it ran for about 5 seconds and then flooded. Ever since that it always flooded at start up.

 

Give it 1000-2000 miles and see how it goes. I think it'll show improvement.

 

It's not starting so I can't drive it. It floods every time I crank it.

 

Make a fuel cut switch??? That way at least you can get it started and go drive it (and restart it if needed)and get some miles on the engine. Just a toggle switch bought at the auto store or radio shack. Two pieces of wire about a foot long each. Maybe a couple of spade terminals for the wire ends.

 

Fuel cut off switch? I need fuel but not a flooding situation. i think the injectors are being told to open longer than they should(duty cycle)

 

He means a switch to turn off the fuel pump on command, so when it floods you just turn the pump off and it will usually start right up. Then turn it back on to keep it running. if it still won't stay running try running it on carb cleaner/starting fluid. If it will run on those then it is just flooding out, a common problem and should get better after some miles like said above.

 

I'm saying what was written above and also.......................rebuilds SOMETIMES need to be driven for a number of miles before the flooding stops. I say low compression is the problem right now.

I'll tell you what. You tell ME what YOUR duty cycle is when starting and I'll tell you MY duty cycle when starting. I've a meter with duty cycle. Talking a COLD engine or at OAT. Whatever/whichever. Or I can show you a PALM showing the time open during a cold start on my car. I've posted that in the past but for HOT starts though.

There is a chart showing the duty cycle vs temperatures that I've posted in the past. Kinda general though.

Heck. After I go rowing in the morning I'll just do it on a cold engine.......if I don't forget.

 

Found out that the ECU was no good. Put in a n/a ecu and it started with no problems. Bought a TII ecu and now it's good