Can I replace my S4 turbo instrument cluster (7k) with S5 turbo cluster (8k)?
#1
Can I replace my S4 turbo instrument cluster (7k) with S5 turbo cluster (8k)?
I am wanting the tach that goes to 8k. Do any of you know what problems there are associated with swapping out my S4 turbo cluster for the S5 turbo cluster?
I'm also toying with the idea of making the factory boost gauge to something other than just lay there (running a standalone). Have any of you hooked this to someting else? It is just needs a linear 0-5V input right? I was thinking water injection tank level maybe.
Thanks,
Justin
I'm also toying with the idea of making the factory boost gauge to something other than just lay there (running a standalone). Have any of you hooked this to someting else? It is just needs a linear 0-5V input right? I was thinking water injection tank level maybe.
Thanks,
Justin
#4
Originally Posted by Dom_C
s5 turbo still tacks at 7k I beleive. The only 8k tack is the s5n/a and i think the FD
Justin
#5
Originally Posted by pistonsuk
Does anyone know if the connecters behind the cluster are similar or the same from the S4 turbo to the S5 n/a? The S5 n/a would be nice, then I would have a volt meter.
Justin
Justin
#6
Originally Posted by Icemark
They use the same plugs, but the wiring/pin layout is different, so you would need to re-pin/re-wire the plugs
Justin
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#8
hmm.. do the 10th AE tacks go to 8k? I had a 10th AE a couple years back.. and it used to go to 8k..
Ooh and by the way.. I have a S5 NA one in my vert now that Im going to be taking out. Im making a custom gauge pod where the stock gauge cluster goes So this one will be useless. Its still under construction but should be done in the not to distant future
Ooh and by the way.. I have a S5 NA one in my vert now that Im going to be taking out. Im making a custom gauge pod where the stock gauge cluster goes So this one will be useless. Its still under construction but should be done in the not to distant future
#9
Originally Posted by FrankV702
hmm.. do the 10th AE tacks go to 8k? I had a 10th AE a couple years back.. and it used to go to 8k..
#11
It doesn't matter how high you revved it, the tach still only reads to 8k and has a 7k redline like Mark said. This is true for every stock FC tach except 5-spd S5 NA's, which read to 9k and have a 8k redline.
#13
If you have the turbo and are considering the gauge swap, definitely go with the S5 NA gauge. You get an extra 1000 rpms on the tach, plus a functioning (Maybe not that well) voltmeter! Just make sure you have an aftermarket boost gauge.
If all you want is the tach, you can try looking for the rare FEED or RE Amemiya 10k tach's.
If all you want is the tach, you can try looking for the rare FEED or RE Amemiya 10k tach's.
#14
Originally Posted by Roen
If you have the turbo and are considering the gauge swap, definitely go with the S5 NA gauge. You get an extra 1000 rpms on the tach, plus a functioning (Maybe not that well) voltmeter! Just make sure you have an aftermarket boost gauge.
If all you want is the tach, you can try looking for the rare FEED or RE Amemiya 10k tach's.
If all you want is the tach, you can try looking for the rare FEED or RE Amemiya 10k tach's.
And the S5 gauges are smaller than the S4 ones
#17
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
It doesn't matter how high you revved it, the tach still only reads to 8k and has a 7k redline like Mark said. This is true for every stock FC tach except 5-spd S5 NA's, which read to 9k and have a 8k redline.
S5 have a reading to 8k, redline is 7k and the rev limiter is at 8k.
#19
YAA 10000RPM FEED tach. Totally useless for my purposes, just looks cool and came with my JDM 1991 GTX so i really cant complain. The only benifit i can suggest of having this unit over the stock unit is its probably more accurate than a stock tach, But thats just speculation.
#24
#25
Originally Posted by gxlbiscuit
hmmm alas i get to slam the icemark........ the original post states..... "running a standalone" i could be on crack.... he can run as higha redline he wants
The flywheel and weight of the rotors and clearances control the redline. Then of course there is the intake runner design (which is not designed to exceed 7000 rpm on a turbo or S4 anyway)
Redline is mechanical... not electrical.
Only an absolute dmbshit would think that running a stand-alone would let them increase the redline without mechanical improvments.