Camber???
#1
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Camber???
I'm sorry if this is a dumb question and i might seem dumb but how do i adjust my rear camber? I have kei office coilovers by the way. If anyone could help me out i would REALLY appreciate it.
thanks
thanks
#5
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
MMR sells individual rear camber adjusters for $125. These are much cheaper than Mazdatrix and AWR, and just a little more expensive than the adjustable subframe link that still leaves camber uneven. The sublink is kind of a waste of time unless yours has slop in it.
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#8
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
how many ways do you think there is to adjust camber? you bend something or install an adjustable link.
sure you could also try cutting out your knuckle tops and re weld them to the frame closer in towards the center of the car in the rear also but i don't think you want to do that either..
if you're looking for a $10 fix, there isn't one. figured my subtle hints would get through but unfortunately, nope.
sure you could also try cutting out your knuckle tops and re weld them to the frame closer in towards the center of the car in the rear also but i don't think you want to do that either..
if you're looking for a $10 fix, there isn't one. figured my subtle hints would get through but unfortunately, nope.
#14
Former FC enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
I disagree, I have poly diff mounts and MMR front diff mount and the camber link worked great for me. If the OP doesn't care about precise handling (for autox, track, backroad) then the sublink will be his best bet. Its cheaper and it doesn't require an alignment (the instructions have a rough calculation method on achieving the desired camber).
#15
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
I disagree, I have poly diff mounts and MMR front diff mount and the camber link worked great for me. If the OP doesn't care about precise handling (for autox, track, backroad) then the sublink will be his best bet. Its cheaper and it doesn't require an alignment (the instructions have a rough calculation method on achieving the desired camber).
My point is, if you are going to spend the money, spend a few dollars more and just get individual adjusters. Unless there is something wrong with your sublink, you do not need both to adjust the rear camber to spec.
I have soild subframe and diff mounts, so the adjustable sublink is useless for me anyway.
#16
Former FC enthusiast
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With older bushings the accuracy of the adjusting method is reduced but to say that it is completely invalid is extreme. When I installed my coilovers and lowered the car my camber went from 1.5" or so to 3" even. This gives me reason to believe that with the subframe lowered via the link the camber will be within 0.3* of each other. This is not a big enough difference to cause an uneven wear issue and thus if the OP doesn't care about handing (likely) he would be better off saving the $60-70 (alignment and additional cost) and some time by installing the sub link. Just my opinion though.
#17
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
With older bushings the accuracy of the adjusting method is reduced but to say that it is completely invalid is extreme. When I installed my coilovers and lowered the car my camber went from 1.5" or so to 3" even. This gives me reason to believe that with the subframe lowered via the link the camber will be within 0.3* of each other. This is not a big enough difference to cause an uneven wear issue and thus if the OP doesn't care about handing (likely) he would be better off saving the $60-70 (alignment and additional cost) and some time by installing the sub link. Just my opinion though.
#19
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http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=156/CA=87]
thats the url for anyone who is interested. thanks very much for everyones input and anyone who was patient with dumb me
thats the url for anyone who is interested. thanks very much for everyones input and anyone who was patient with dumb me
#25
Lives on the Forum
Individual adjusters can and do lead to binding in the rear, or worse, if you adjust them very far from the stock length, UNLESS you have spherical bearings in your control arms. This will be worse with stiffer bushings, terrible with hard plastic or metal ones. IMHO they should ONLY be used to even out the camber side to side when it's been adjusted with the subframe link.