A/C Charging with Easy Cheap Safe Alternative Refrigerant
03-31-20 | 05:49 PM
#401
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Automobile Air Conditioning Parts of Tucson Arizona, Century Auto Air, AC Parts, AC Service and Hoses, www.centuryautoair.com
Here it is!
In this shop you will find all the needed parts for the HVAC compressors rebuild of the eighties!
Here is a brief video with an "how to" shaft seal replacement of the Denso 10P series!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh-KIjAqh-A
Pay attention to order the right seal: there are 2 type of seals for our 10P15C compressor. The new seal type compressor started to appear on the RX7s on 89~90. The only way to know what type of seal is inside into our Denso 10P15C is to disassemble the compressor first! There is no way to find it with the serial number!
Seals are not interchangeable. There are 2 different housings, each one for one type of seal!
Also with the "one piece seal type" (the one in my compressor) you need also to buy the "seal lip tool". If you install the seal without this tool (the one you can see into one of my photos above) you will destroy the seal gasket and the system will leak!
If you have more questions simply ask me!
For a perfect work you need also the help of a leak detector like this!
https://www.mastercool.com/product/5...detector-auto/
I payed the Mastercool leak detector 200bucks!
My system discharged 50% after 8 months. I checked everything, everything was perfect even the vaacum test!
With the leak detector i found a micro micro micro leak on the schraders valves (both of them). I replaced all the schraders valves even the one into the compressor low side pipe (the 3rth vale)!
Without the electronic leak detector i would never have found the leak! You simply can't find these micro micro leaks without the leak detector or with the "UV" test!
Here it is!
In this shop you will find all the needed parts for the HVAC compressors rebuild of the eighties!
Here is a brief video with an "how to" shaft seal replacement of the Denso 10P series!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh-KIjAqh-A
Pay attention to order the right seal: there are 2 type of seals for our 10P15C compressor. The new seal type compressor started to appear on the RX7s on 89~90. The only way to know what type of seal is inside into our Denso 10P15C is to disassemble the compressor first! There is no way to find it with the serial number!
Seals are not interchangeable. There are 2 different housings, each one for one type of seal!
Also with the "one piece seal type" (the one in my compressor) you need also to buy the "seal lip tool". If you install the seal without this tool (the one you can see into one of my photos above) you will destroy the seal gasket and the system will leak!
If you have more questions simply ask me!
For a perfect work you need also the help of a leak detector like this!
https://www.mastercool.com/product/5...detector-auto/
I payed the Mastercool leak detector 200bucks!
My system discharged 50% after 8 months. I checked everything, everything was perfect even the vaacum test!
With the leak detector i found a micro micro micro leak on the schraders valves (both of them). I replaced all the schraders valves even the one into the compressor low side pipe (the 3rth vale)!
Without the electronic leak detector i would never have found the leak! You simply can't find these micro micro leaks without the leak detector or with the "UV" test!
EDIT: After some searching, it doesn't look like they have any rebuild parts for the TV14 compressor, and I haven't found any rebuild kits anywhere else either. However, I've found plenty of reman compressors for around $440 and some for cheaper than that, and I found what looks to be the same compressor for an 87-88 Toyota Tercel for about half the cost. But usually these things are too good to be true.
https://www.acpartshouse.com/invento...-ac-compressor
I don't want to change the direction of this thread though, sorry.
Last edited by speedjunkie; 03-31-20 at 07:05 PM.
04-13-20 | 10:39 PM
#402
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Ok, weird problem lol.
A few days ago I noticed my AC wasn't working anymore so I figured I probably had a leak. I jumped the harness to the cutout switch and turned the AC on and it worked.
I turned off the AC, and as soon as I removed the jumper the compressor clutch engaged. I shut off and restarted the car and the compressor clutch engaged again immediately. I tried turning the AC on again, no change. Tried the jumper again, no change. It's just always on now. I looked at the connector I jumped and it looks just fine.
Ugh, shoot me.
A few days ago I noticed my AC wasn't working anymore so I figured I probably had a leak. I jumped the harness to the cutout switch and turned the AC on and it worked.
I turned off the AC, and as soon as I removed the jumper the compressor clutch engaged. I shut off and restarted the car and the compressor clutch engaged again immediately. I tried turning the AC on again, no change. Tried the jumper again, no change. It's just always on now. I looked at the connector I jumped and it looks just fine.
Ugh, shoot me.
04-14-20 | 05:56 AM
#403
Ok, weird problem lol.
A few days ago I noticed my AC wasn't working anymore so I figured I probably had a leak. I jumped the harness to the cutout switch and turned the AC on and it worked.
I turned off the AC, and as soon as I removed the jumper the compressor clutch engaged. I shut off and restarted the car and the compressor clutch engaged again immediately. I tried turning the AC on again, no change. Tried the jumper again, no change. It's just always on now. I looked at the connector I jumped and it looks just fine.
Ugh, shoot me.
A few days ago I noticed my AC wasn't working anymore so I figured I probably had a leak. I jumped the harness to the cutout switch and turned the AC on and it worked.
I turned off the AC, and as soon as I removed the jumper the compressor clutch engaged. I shut off and restarted the car and the compressor clutch engaged again immediately. I tried turning the AC on again, no change. Tried the jumper again, no change. It's just always on now. I looked at the connector I jumped and it looks just fine.
Ugh, shoot me.
04-14-20 | 04:44 PM
#404
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
That is most definitely an electrical problem - you'll need to deep dive your FSM (and whatever electrical mods you've made to the car) to figure it out, but until you do, I'd disconnect the connector to the compressor so you can drive the car without the compressor being engaged all the time. Otherwise, if it gets too low on refrigerant, the compressor will seize eventually.
04-14-20 | 05:43 PM
#405
It's a really long shot, but next time you have the AC compressor running, disconnect the connector to the compressor clutch and see what happens - does the clutch stay engaged & run the compressor? If it does, the clutch is mechanically buggered up.
When I restored the AC on my FC, the 1st reman compressor I purchased was apparently damaged in shipping or defective, and after a few days of normal use, the clutch would stay locked up whether there was electrical power applied or not. The vendor sent me a replacement compressor which has been working fine for the last few years
When I restored the AC on my FC, the 1st reman compressor I purchased was apparently damaged in shipping or defective, and after a few days of normal use, the clutch would stay locked up whether there was electrical power applied or not. The vendor sent me a replacement compressor which has been working fine for the last few years
04-14-20 | 07:19 PM
#406
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
OK this is a really weird problem. When I put the jumper wire back in, the compressor will go off as long as the AC switch is off. So basically, with the cutout connector jumped, it operates as normal. But if I take that jumper out, the compressor kicks on again. With no jumper, the compressor stays on whether the AC is turned on or off. The cutout switch should be normally open, I would think. Actually, with everything plugged in as it should be, the compressor is on all the time, so I guess the cutout is normally open and working properly still. I just can't figure out why it's working when theoretically there isn't a complete circuit, and once you complete the circuit, it turns off. That makes no sense to me.
This is an FD by the way, so it's not exactly the same, but I figure it's close enough for basic troubleshooting purposes. I disconnected the connector to the compressor and it didn't turn on at all, but I just now realized the one I need to disconnect is the one right on top of the compressor, which I can't get to because of the power steering pump and the starter harness in the way. I'll remove the IC piping and see if I can squeeze my hand in there.
This is an FD by the way, so it's not exactly the same, but I figure it's close enough for basic troubleshooting purposes. I disconnected the connector to the compressor and it didn't turn on at all, but I just now realized the one I need to disconnect is the one right on top of the compressor, which I can't get to because of the power steering pump and the starter harness in the way. I'll remove the IC piping and see if I can squeeze my hand in there.
05-20-20 | 06:43 AM
#407
Recently had my compressor rebuilt for 80$ (which wasn't very old to begin with, came with the car back in Nov 2017) The system was already running on 152A when I purchased the car luckily so this transition was pretty easy.
Dropped some Ester oil in the compressor, replaced the o-rings and set the vac and gauges on it for an hour. pulled -29/-30 relatively quickly. Left the gauges on ALL NIGHT at -30 (no vac pump running) The vac held! Did a recharge with a box fan blowing on the condenser HIGH SPEED and randomly spraying cold water on the condenser while charging as well.
1 can liquid refrigerant and was already getting 48-50F from the center vents. Did another HALF of a 10oz can tapped up high for gas vapor) Seeing 44-45 from the vents!
Just drove the car into work this morning after it sat in my garage for a week. A/C still nice and cold !
Much needed addition in the Florida heat and humidity.
Thanks for the awesome write-up!
-Markus
Dropped some Ester oil in the compressor, replaced the o-rings and set the vac and gauges on it for an hour. pulled -29/-30 relatively quickly. Left the gauges on ALL NIGHT at -30 (no vac pump running) The vac held! Did a recharge with a box fan blowing on the condenser HIGH SPEED and randomly spraying cold water on the condenser while charging as well.
1 can liquid refrigerant and was already getting 48-50F from the center vents. Did another HALF of a 10oz can tapped up high for gas vapor) Seeing 44-45 from the vents!
Just drove the car into work this morning after it sat in my garage for a week. A/C still nice and cold !
Much needed addition in the Florida heat and humidity.
Thanks for the awesome write-up!
-Markus
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