well since you already bought it. you may as well. once u get it started anyways. my last 7 would do that from time to time.. i would normally just wait a little mbbe even 20 mins. and it would start.. but once again good luck! i hope it all works out for ya

 

i tried the waiting game lol, i actually went out and bought a new battery for it cuz the other one was completely drained and still nothing. but the guy said he had been gone for a year so i'm thinking things just need to be freshened up a bit.

 

ok so i know this has been covered many many times but i just can't seem to make a damn decision, i know im going to go with 10w30 but i can't for the life of me decide on a brand.

 

many people here actually prefer 20w50 Castrol thats what i use and will continue to use on all my rotarys
TwEaK

 

10w/30 Castrol GTX here.

Year round unless I'm going on a summer road trip, then she gets 20w/50 for the extended highway time.

 

well true to add clokker around what area do you live in? depends i guess how cold your winters get
TwEaK

 

$500 rx-7, now my DD put about 300 in... payed more in sales tax in mass then the car and repairs.....

 

look for kittens, i had kittens in my 7 when i bought it

 

I live in Denver.
Fairly moderate temperature year round.

My car smokes like a bastard with 20w/50 in but not at all with 10w/30.
Not a clue why this might be but it is verifiably so and I see no reason to fight it.
With over 190k she's earned the right to be contrary.

 

i use 10-30 castrol in my 7. all year. even when it does snow. it seems to still be fine.

 

ok so quick update. I decided to try to start it early this morning. started almost right up but wouldn't idle. i had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from dying, and it was smoking like crazy, light grey smoke. stopped after about 10 or 15 seconds, then the buzzer went off and i realized i hadn't checked it so i let off the gas and it died. checked the oil level and it was a bit low so i filled it up. couldn't get the car to start for the rest of the day and ended up draining my brand new battery. I'm lost on why it won't idle now, when i test drove it the other day it idled at about 1000 rpms. now nothing? i picked up some ngk plugs and wires and will be putting them on along with a coolant and oil change.

 

well.. maybe thats all you need. is a tuneup. but. i will leave it to the more experienced fc owners... make sure you get both leading and trailing plugs. and make sure they are in the right place. i bought plugs. and didnt realize that there was a difference. but swapped them out and it ran better.. lol good luck once again

 

Yeah i did get different plugs and wires for leading and trailing plugs. how do i tell which is leading and which is trailing?

 

Your oil level has to be more than "a bit low" to trigger the warning buzzer.
That same warning will go off if the brake fluid is low...might be worth a look.

 

it was on the lower line so really low lol. after i added oil i left the key on the on position and it never started beeping as it had the previous night.

 

Well, im no expert but if it drained your new battery, it sounds like to me that you need a new ?alternator? correct me if wrong...

 

I never got it to start after doing it early that morning, so the alternator was never doing anything as the alternator only charges the battery when the engine is running. so all of the starting attempts on it ended up draining it.

 

anyone know why it wouldn't idle though?

 

If the car is problematic regarding trying to start it you need a second car to help jump start the car and not totally drain your new battery. When a RX7 is flooded it makes a peculiar high pitched whinning sound when you try to start it. On an S5 which you have you can deflood the car by stepping down on the accelerator pedal before start up. If this doesn't work then you need to press down on the accelerator pedal all the way and toggle your foot back and forth to pump the pedal while you turn the key to start. When flooded the car will try to fight you but if you persevere long enough it will eventually make a sound as if it is getting closer to starting. When this happens you still need to pump the pedal to try to get the engine to fully start up and eventually it will and it might take a few times but it should start. When it does start expect a bunch of smoke to pour out of the exhaust for at least a minute or so if not longer and continue to pump the pedal until the engine sounds like it is not fighting you anymore. Also make sure you have as full a tank of gas as possible because if it sat for a long time the gas will be far from quality gasoline. If your fairly low on gas just get some new gas in a hand held container and put it into the tank and afterwards press down on the rear of the car and bounce the rear end in an attempt to mix the old with the new.

 

For the idle check the thermowax. When I get a computer and time I'll post some more on that for now.

 

I don't think anyone answered your question. The Leading plugs are the Lower two, the Trailing plugs are on Top. If you remember this L and T memory aid, you'll always get it right. When attaching your new plug wires, the Trailing ignition coil is the one up by the firewall and the Leading is near the front of the car. You'll see L1, L2, T1 and T2 markings on the coils. The front rotor is 1, the rear rotor is 2.