Buying 87 turbo...heres what the seller said.
#26
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Ok...the A/F gauge reads rich at idle and just barely hits stoic at WOT...That is not lean...The lean symbol is way the hell on the other side. It goes 1/3 lean 2/3 stoic and 3/3 rich. Im at the end of 2/3. Does this sound ok?
#27
I'm a boost creep...
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Stop misquoting me! I didn't say "lean", I said "too lean"! And 14.5:1 A/F (stoichiometric) is far too lean for WOT, it should be closer to 12.5:1. 14.5:1 will cause dangerously high combustion temps at WOT resulting in detonation. Do a search, they've been plenty of threads on what mixtures you should see at different loads.
#28
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by von
I think the 45percent duty cycle is 45percent over stock wich also doesnot make sense. That means that hes pushing 100 percent but he says he doesent have any flooding probs and injectors are fine.
I think the 45percent duty cycle is 45percent over stock wich also doesnot make sense. That means that hes pushing 100 percent but he says he doesent have any flooding probs and injectors are fine.
-Ted
#29
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by von
Well its stock fuel system and I had no Idea it can handle 13psi.
Well its stock fuel system and I had no Idea it can handle 13psi.
Thats a reliefe. only 75 percent , then thats pretty good. I dont know what color smoke it is. Havent actually seen it. Anyways the AVCR says 45 percent thats all I know. I dont know what setting field I was in. Adjustments or Gauges. Im sure it was adjusted.
The A/F gauge reads rich at idle and stoic (high green at WOT. Thats pretty good if u ask me.
I guess the stock exaust is keeping it from boost spiking so no probs thier. If 13.1 is possible then why the hell did u say thiers not much power past 10psi. 10 psi is nothing close to 13.1 am I right?
-Ted
#30
Senior Member
It sounds to me like the guy who is selling the car is talking out his ***. If the car runs ok then get it if you want. Once you can look at all the settings and such and get accurate numbers for them then the list can help you much more.
everyone can speculate but until you get good information noone can tell for sure.
everyone can speculate but until you get good information noone can tell for sure.
#31
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
I already said the engine blows smoke at idle sometimes..Its blown to hell. But 800 bucks comon. Wouldnt u get it? Anyways should I get a two wire oxygen sensor? He has a new oxy in thier right now.
#33
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Yo
What's up man. That car you are buying is my friends car. I live right down the street from him. To set the record straight....that engine is my old series 5 jspec motor. It dynoed 234 to the wheels with my upgraded compressor housing and FMIC. The series 5 is the 89+ motor. I also have the dyno sheet. I ran 13.9 @ 104 mph with 1.110 reaction time. Yes, I know....I was a ishhy driver then. Call me at 619-820-6836.
#34
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
I left a message...If u have read this thread u will know that I have like 10 questions. First one is if Its the Series 5 engine then why does it have series 4 alternator and radiator?. Although I do think the bac valve was located on the same side as series 5 so was the engine series 5 and the dressings series 4?
About the AVCR settings??? above ^
And thier seems to be only one belt holding the main to the alternator. I have expierienced slippage on my N/A until I got the DUAL. This might have overheated the engine but Gary said NO WAY so my guess is that the alternator that he just replaced didnt give a 12v charge to the Fuel Pump causing a lean running condition...Im sure u would now more about this then me so jump in whenever u want.
Another ? is about the A/F gauge ratio readings...
One more ?... How many parts were taken off this car before I bought it? Sorry for all the ?s just want to know the exact history of what im buying so I can future mod it correctly and know what to expect. Thnx.
About the AVCR settings??? above ^
And thier seems to be only one belt holding the main to the alternator. I have expierienced slippage on my N/A until I got the DUAL. This might have overheated the engine but Gary said NO WAY so my guess is that the alternator that he just replaced didnt give a 12v charge to the Fuel Pump causing a lean running condition...Im sure u would now more about this then me so jump in whenever u want.
Another ? is about the A/F gauge ratio readings...
One more ?... How many parts were taken off this car before I bought it? Sorry for all the ?s just want to know the exact history of what im buying so I can future mod it correctly and know what to expect. Thnx.
#35
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
ALLSTYLE...the ECU should read N374 or something and not N333 for the series 4. Your 89 motor will boost lower than the 7psi from the series 4. We should pick a time to go down and check this stuff out.
#36
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Nevermind above with the ECU..Boost is not ECU dependent. Anyways get your friend Gary and please tell him to go to www.fc3s.org go to electronics then A-VCR. He will see that A-VCRs are now only 399 shipped and I offered him 400 to leave it in wich was my mistake but I will keep the deal and give him 400 for it. please tell him this before he takes it out...THNX.
#38
Rotary Freak
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#39
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Originally posted by von
I left a message...If u have read this thread u will know that I have like 10 questions. First one is if Its the Series 5 engine then why does it have series 4 alternator and radiator?. Although I do think the bac valve was located on the same side as series 5 so was the engine series 5 and the dressings series 4?
About the AVCR settings??? above ^
And thier seems to be only one belt holding the main to the alternator. I have expierienced slippage on my N/A until I got the DUAL. This might have overheated the engine but Gary said NO WAY so my guess is that the alternator that he just replaced didnt give a 12v charge to the Fuel Pump causing a lean running condition...Im sure u would now more about this then me so jump in whenever u want.
Another ? is about the A/F gauge ratio readings...
One more ?... How many parts were taken off this car before I bought it? Sorry for all the ?s just want to know the exact history of what im buying so I can future mod it correctly and know what to expect. Thnx.
I left a message...If u have read this thread u will know that I have like 10 questions. First one is if Its the Series 5 engine then why does it have series 4 alternator and radiator?. Although I do think the bac valve was located on the same side as series 5 so was the engine series 5 and the dressings series 4?
About the AVCR settings??? above ^
And thier seems to be only one belt holding the main to the alternator. I have expierienced slippage on my N/A until I got the DUAL. This might have overheated the engine but Gary said NO WAY so my guess is that the alternator that he just replaced didnt give a 12v charge to the Fuel Pump causing a lean running condition...Im sure u would now more about this then me so jump in whenever u want.
Another ? is about the A/F gauge ratio readings...
One more ?... How many parts were taken off this car before I bought it? Sorry for all the ?s just want to know the exact history of what im buying so I can future mod it correctly and know what to expect. Thnx.
What about the A/F guage readings?
The AVC-R and SAFC are being removed, nothing else.
#40
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Wait..He wasnt removing the S-AFC. He was just taking out the boost control...And I offered him 400 for the boost control to keep it in and he said he would think about it.
#42
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Anywayz for averyone else that was following alone. The engine floods itself with coolant so the block is completly scrap metal. He says I can drive it home thou. When the seller owned the car he said he boosted to 1.1 bar wich is around 15 psi. He has gutted main cat but stock precat...Why I dont know... They said that when they boosted it that hight they heard the engine pinging and thats when they new something gave up...Gary the seller told me he was just drivnig and it started smoking at idle accasionally. He never said anything about boosting past the 13psi he told me...He also never said the block was dead with coolant. He also never said he uses premix because the OMP doesent work. I just hope nothing else is wrong with the car...
ALLSTYLE--So when I get the tranzplant should I get the series 4 stuff or series 5 engine???. Wich would be cheaper and or more reliable?
ALLSTYLE--So when I get the tranzplant should I get the series 4 stuff or series 5 engine???. Wich would be cheaper and or more reliable?
#43
Lives on the Forum
Too much conflicting stories...
If I were you, I would just drop this whole deal now - I think it's going to bite you in the *** soon.  Performance numbers can be easily conujured out of ones *** - I'm not saying this is the case, but some of the numbers are just not consistent with my experience with a Turbo II...that's all I can say.
-Ted
If I were you, I would just drop this whole deal now - I think it's going to bite you in the *** soon.  Performance numbers can be easily conujured out of ones *** - I'm not saying this is the case, but some of the numbers are just not consistent with my experience with a Turbo II...that's all I can say.
-Ted
#44
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Good advice REted but I gave him 250 down arleady before I talked to his friend vynce.. Its cool Its only 800. I will tear down teh old engine and put in a used japann one. Will end up costing alot more in the long run but oh well. I finally get a turbo now. Im still pretty excited.
#48
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by blu_gxl
i'm sorry to be a pooper but 1 bar is 14.7 not 14.5
i'm sorry to be a pooper but 1 bar is 14.7 not 14.5
Do a web search for "bar" and "psi" and see how many of those hits mention 14.7 - I bet ALL of them say 14.5.
It's a common misconception.
1 atmosphere (atm) = 14.7psi
1 bar = 14.5psi
1 kg/cm² = 14.2psi
You can search for these conversions too.
-Ted
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