Buying a 1989 GTU
#1
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Buying a 1989 GTU
Hey everyone. I'm new to the rotary world and I'm thinking of buying my neighbors 1989 GTU. He's selling it for $2800 obo. What are some of the things I need to look out for? I heard the biggest thing is the apex seal. What's that? Also, where can I find the specs and stats for the 1989 GTU. The car's red, 5-speed and pretty clean with a little ding on the doors. I've heard that the 89 GTU has a rear spoiler but this one doesn't. Does that mean it's not a GTU? Any help is appreciated, Ed.
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
all the series 5 cars 89-91 came with a rear spoiler except the 'verts.
So unless he took it off, the car is a 86-88.
as too the rest of your questions:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=59758
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/page1.html
http://home.rmci.net/panther/tech.htm
http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_RX7.html
So unless he took it off, the car is a 86-88.
as too the rest of your questions:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=59758
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/page1.html
http://home.rmci.net/panther/tech.htm
http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_RX7.html
#4
knowledge junkie
Ed,
You can verify the model by running the VIN number at your mazda dealership.
First rule of buying a rotary car is get the "official mazda rotary" compression test done. That will let you know if the previous owner took care of the engine & car. The mazda dealership should give you back 6 numbers (3 per rotor).
Average engine lifespan before a rebuild is needed for the 1989-1991 cars is:
NA (non turbo)
180-220K miles
Turbo:
140-160K miles
Also you might want to check your local rotary club out and attend one of their meetings.
Do it yourself Rebuild kits run $850-$1200. Profession rebuild gets a bit pricey, but you can always buy a remanufactured engine & install yourself as well.
Here's a "welcome to the forum" post to get you better aquainted with these cars.
-- vaughnc
Hey welcome to the forum and our obsession
Best thing about the rx-7s is the car is 100% designed as a TRUE sports car - not a "sports coupe" or "sports sendan."
The Turbo II is a SUPERCAR and is the tuners DREAM CAR. Mazda designed the car with 450HP in mind but detuned to 200/180 ft-lbs torque. What that means is you can GO NUTS designing a porsche killer for little $$$.
The rotary engine is PERFECT for a sports car. Mazda designed the rx-7 to take 130% advantage of it. That means you get lightweight HIGH OUTPUT performance, near UNLIMITED REVING (no pistons to break), small engine means sweet aerodynamics = low drag. Handlign is the BEST part of the rotary experience. The chassis has rear steer like some porsches, so you can kick some serious butt around the corners. The car handles & drives so well - it inspires you to push the car beyond what you think it's capable of
Best of all, the rx-7s have an international following from tuners, manufacturers, and enthusiest. That means you have a wide selection of performance upgrades, accessories, bodykits, coffeytable books, toy models, and knowlegable people.
a few pictures:
[/B]
You can verify the model by running the VIN number at your mazda dealership.
First rule of buying a rotary car is get the "official mazda rotary" compression test done. That will let you know if the previous owner took care of the engine & car. The mazda dealership should give you back 6 numbers (3 per rotor).
Average engine lifespan before a rebuild is needed for the 1989-1991 cars is:
NA (non turbo)
180-220K miles
Turbo:
140-160K miles
Also you might want to check your local rotary club out and attend one of their meetings.
Do it yourself Rebuild kits run $850-$1200. Profession rebuild gets a bit pricey, but you can always buy a remanufactured engine & install yourself as well.
Here's a "welcome to the forum" post to get you better aquainted with these cars.
-- vaughnc
Hey welcome to the forum and our obsession
Best thing about the rx-7s is the car is 100% designed as a TRUE sports car - not a "sports coupe" or "sports sendan."
The Turbo II is a SUPERCAR and is the tuners DREAM CAR. Mazda designed the car with 450HP in mind but detuned to 200/180 ft-lbs torque. What that means is you can GO NUTS designing a porsche killer for little $$$.
The rotary engine is PERFECT for a sports car. Mazda designed the rx-7 to take 130% advantage of it. That means you get lightweight HIGH OUTPUT performance, near UNLIMITED REVING (no pistons to break), small engine means sweet aerodynamics = low drag. Handlign is the BEST part of the rotary experience. The chassis has rear steer like some porsches, so you can kick some serious butt around the corners. The car handles & drives so well - it inspires you to push the car beyond what you think it's capable of
Best of all, the rx-7s have an international following from tuners, manufacturers, and enthusiest. That means you have a wide selection of performance upgrades, accessories, bodykits, coffeytable books, toy models, and knowlegable people.
a few pictures:
[/B]
#6
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Originally posted by bcty
look for no smoke on start up... and just see if he maintained to the well.. take it for a test drive and take it to 8k.. that should serve u well!
look for no smoke on start up... and just see if he maintained to the well.. take it for a test drive and take it to 8k.. that should serve u well!
Also,
"First rule of buying a rotary car is get the "official mazda rotary" compression test done. That will let you know if the previous owner took care of the engine & car. The mazda dealership should give you back 6 numbers (3 per rotor). "
What's the "official mazda rotary" compression test? Is this done by a dealer? Ed.
Last edited by No2slow; 07-15-02 at 05:33 PM.
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#8
The car will do 8K. I have never taken mine that high though. I do take it to 7K every time I drive it. You will feel it when you drive it. The engine isn't even having fun till you get it to 5K.
#9
knowledge junkie
Shifting between 4500-6000 rpms is normal for this car.
Yes, the compression test is different than the one for pistons engines and your mazda dealership has the testing equipment. You should make sure of course to ask the dealership if they are using the "special rotary compression tester" and if they will give you 6 numbers back or only 2.
Yes, the compression test is different than the one for pistons engines and your mazda dealership has the testing equipment. You should make sure of course to ask the dealership if they are using the "special rotary compression tester" and if they will give you 6 numbers back or only 2.
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