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Building a budget Hybrid Turbo - Ebay T04 parts

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Old 12-24-10 | 09:06 AM
  #26  
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here are the measurements I took a while back of the stock turbo, S4 and S5 are the same:

Compressor: 44/63 mm, 49 trim
Turbine: 54/64 mm, 71 trim, 1.0 a/r?

just for reference, a BNR stage 3 uses a T04B .60 A/R compressor cover with 60-1 wheel, with the stock turbine wheel trimmed to reduce backpressure. This hurts spool by about 800 rpm, but reduces turbine backpressure, giving you better top end, and helps keep boost creep in check. The 60-1 wheel measurements are 59/76mm, 60 trim. this will get you 300whp at a minimum

The T04B housing needs to be grinded down in some areas to prevent it from hitting the LIM, so it is a tight fit. there is no way a bigger housing will fit without getting fancy with manifold spacers

I used to have a BNR stage 3, but when the bearings took a **** I ended up sending the turbine housing to gpopshop to get it milled out for a p-trim wheel for $100. I found a p-trim wheel on ebay and had it balanced with the 60-1 parts. This yielded probably another 30whp and spool actually got better by about 300 rpm. but it would creep to about 15psi. the difference between this and a bnr stage 4 is the p-trim is clipped to let more exhaust past and keep boost creep in check. but then you get the delayed spool, but more top end


I think the main problem with hybrids is boost creep. Boost creep hurts top end.. a good flowing wastegate will reduce backpressure a lot, which means more flow and more power. If you are creeping, you are losing out on power.

I am actually working on getting a bell-mouth downpipe made for S5, and with a modified wastgate flapper arm, and I believe this should eliminate all boost creep on the S5's. I am not sure why we dont have one available commercially, i suppose there is not enough demand
Old 12-24-10 | 10:48 AM
  #27  
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Good info!

I'm on the fence as to whether to get a BNR or look at building a hybrid. I'd like to have the quickest spool possible, which seems to suggest an unclipped P-trim wheel. I wonder if routing an external wg to the S5 manifold would alleviate creep w/o having to clip the wheel.
Old 12-24-10 | 08:05 PM
  #28  
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To duplicate a BNR stage 1, you need a T04b V-trim compressor wheel (55.4mm/70mm) and have the compressor housing and backplate/sealplate milled to accept the larger wheel. Here's a V-trim wheel on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...item3f052f33ab

A BNR stage 2 is a T04b H-trim wheel (58.4mm/70mm) with a 0.6 or 0.7 A/R T04b housing and backplate.

I'm currently gathering parts to assemble a hybrid sort of in between stage 1 and 2. The Japanese hybrids tend to use the V-trim wheel with the T04b compressor, which is what I'll be doing. I'm not looking for huge HP numbers at the cost of spool. I'll be happy with 300 whp.

Another piece I've picked up for the build is a better wastegate actuator. This one is from a GT28, and is still rated for 6 psi, but hopefully the spring will keep the door closed better than the stock unit. I've read people have had success with these, and BNR has started doing this too.

Actuator: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=WGT
Bracket: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=WGT

The bolt pattern on the bracket is for the T04b housing/backplate, but an extra hole can be drilled to fit it on the HT-18 housing.
Old 12-24-10 | 08:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sharingan 19
Good info!

I'm on the fence as to whether to get a BNR or look at building a hybrid. I'd like to have the quickest spool possible, which seems to suggest an unclipped P-trim wheel. I wonder if routing an external wg to the S5 manifold would alleviate creep w/o having to clip the wheel.
BlueTII has (had) a really crazy external WG setup atached to his backplate
Theres a guy on the other forum that has an HKS 50mm setup on his s5 Manifold
Old 12-24-10 | 10:01 PM
  #30  
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Something else that's helpful: http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/cata...tt&pagina=TO4B

This is a list of PNs for Garrett TO4b turbos that were used in OEM applications (mostly diesels). The T04b35 uses a V-trim compressor wheel & matching housing with a P-trim turbine wheel/shaft.

This site lists some of the technical specs for these OEM T04b turbos: http://www.turbofast.com.au/balstd.html. There are some S-trim, U-trim and H-trim compressors, as well as some others I don't recognize.
Old 12-24-10 | 10:27 PM
  #31  
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I gave in and bought this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Will more than likely go with a t3 rebuild kit off ebay
They range as low as $30 and i think that is sufficient.
There seem to be 2 different styles

and

This one notice the 360 degree thrust bearing , as the other is a 270 i believe. This is what BNR raves about in their hybrids, so get this kind.

I will also port the wastegate.
Then Ill just have to get it balanced.

Cool video showing what is involved in balancing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMA5RFpGRbg

Plenty of turbo breakdown videos on youtube.
Old 12-24-10 | 10:37 PM
  #32  
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i have done a few of these over the years,, if going for Ebay turbo's and parts
be sure you are getting backing plates that are suited for the carbon encapsulated seal and not the dynamic one
\- same with rebuild kits,, be sure you get the front carbon seal

also all to4B should be 6.25- 6.35mm on the shaft OD for the compressor wheel to be usable with the ht18 rear shaft/wheel
( there is large shaft t04's that require bushing )

also knightsports s320 ( jap hiflow ) uses an unusual 7 blade compressor,,in a to4B type cover ( trust ) ,, with a reverse threaded rear shaft/wheel and with an adjustable wastegate


Originally Posted by bumpstart



HT 18s-2s cover and backing-plate modded for V trim ( full wheel ) left,, stock right
backing plate is machined to 71 mm ,, stock cover is machined to 56.6 mm in the inlet
( removing the reversion step , and leaving approx 2 mm of the original snout )
on the inside,, the profile has been taken out to 11 mm from the edges
( stock cover is 16 mm remaining on the flat )

"small shaft t04" diameter is 6.25-6.35 mm at the compressor ( t04b and some t04E )
"big shaft t04" is 7.83-7.93 mm at the compressor ( some t04E and most t04S,R and TA types )
T06 shaft size is 9.40-9.50 mm
[ both measurements are given,, one is the shaft,, other is the bore ID in the compressor wheel ]


metric measurements of the common "small shaft" compressors used on the hitachi 18s-2s in ascending outright flows -
name,, compressor inducer diameter, exducer diameter, height to the inducer, number of blades, tip height, expected peak airflow ( pounds/min ) [ if avail ]

stock-- 44 mm , 63mm, 24mm, 6 blades, 6.4 mm

S trim - 48.3 - 49.5 mm , 70 mm , ? , 8 blades , 6.0 mm
( used in a modded cover or to4b cover )
35 lb/min

T trim- 52.85 mm, 70mm , ?, 8 blades , 6.10 mm
( used in modded cover or to4b cover )
42 lb/min??

V trim -55.35 mm, 70 mm, ( 26mm ? still on car ! ), 8 blades, 6.2mm
( used in modded cover or full to4b cover )
48 lb/min

s320 knightsports -56mm, 70 mm, 26mm, 7 blades , 4.1 mm
( only used in a to4b 0.60 type cover )
[ looks machined and may well be a 60-1 turned down ]
48 lb/min

H trim- 58- 59.7 mm ( depending on H1,2,3 ), 70 mm, ?, 8 blades, 6.2mm
( used in a very hogged out modded cover or to4b cover )
49 lb/min

t04E 57 trim --56.5 mm, 75mm, ?, 6 blades, 6.10
( used in to4 E 0.70 cover , or sometimes t04b 0.60 )
49 lb/min

t04E 60 trim --- 58 mm, 75mm, ?, 6 blades, 6.10
( used in a to4E cover )
50 lb/min

t04B 60-1 --59 mm, 76.2 mm, ? , 7 blades ( IIRC ), ?
( used in a t04"S" 0.70 cover, or machined B 0.60 cover )
65 lb/min

note E compressors are inefficient compared to B types at low output pressures
-- but more efficient than B types at higher boosts
so its not all in the outright airflows,, as B will likely give more area under the curve with a lower inertia and higher low boost efficiency
( but worse adiabatic performance at higher boosts than an E )

source--
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/7834/pic0423389.jpg

also -

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/appl...compressor.php
http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/turbos/data.php

Last edited by bumpstart; 12-24-10 at 10:39 PM.
Old 12-24-10 | 11:00 PM
  #33  
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================




























some random pull down shots of a T wheel into a ht18s cover rebuild

note in aus,,
stage one usually refers to a any big compressor wheel in a hogged standard cover
( a hifi )
stage two would relate to big wheel in t04 cover ( 0.60 or 0.7 front )
stage 3 relates to back cut standard rears
stage 4 relates to P or modded Q trim rear

PS
thrust bearings ,, heavy duty is 270 and steel,, with 3 oil passages
360 thrust bearings need mods to grub screw them into the cartridge ,, and use a two piece collate

Last edited by bumpstart; 12-24-10 at 11:03 PM.
Old 12-24-10 | 11:08 PM
  #34  
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us
pictured here is the carbon encapsulated seal in a genuine garret rebuild kit
( about $140-$170 aus dollars )

the pics in the post above mine are for front dynamic piston ring type seal which do not suit some to4b ,, and hitachi ht18s rebuilds
Old 12-24-10 | 11:13 PM
  #35  
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us
back-cut standard rear



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
back-cut and standard rear wheel comparison




Uploaded with ImageShack.us
worked wastegate flap on an s4 turbo,,
the volute runner is also drilled through to the other scroll so that both s4 scrolls are wastegated

Last edited by bumpstart; 12-24-10 at 11:15 PM.
Old 12-24-10 | 11:45 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for the pictures
Originally Posted by bumpstart
the pics in the post above mine are for front dynamic piston ring type seal which do not suit some to4b ,, and hitachi ht18s rebuilds
I am confused, are you saying that carbon encapsulated seal that you are pointing out in the picture is needed, or that the pics of the rebuild kits I posted do not really suit the ht-18?

edit: so a kit with a carbon seal may be needed
Old 12-25-10 | 12:03 AM
  #37  
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garrett kits come as either encapsulated carbon or dynamic front seals
-- ht 18s is encapsulated front , and so are many of the to4 b front backing plates

you only use the dynamic front seal if you are rebuilding with a P trim shaft and a to4E front cover and wheel that have this style front seal
Old 12-25-10 | 12:37 AM
  #38  
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ok i see.

I just need to find a rebuild kit wiht the carbon seal?
i just ordered this turbo for the compressor and wheel, so more than likely it would be encapsulated carbon seal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
now for the 360 bearing to fit , there needs to be some tweaking done? ive searched google and havent seen anything about that.
Old 12-25-10 | 01:14 AM
  #39  
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Most of the info I've sifted through on the net suggests a 360 degree thrust bearing is only really needed at higher boost levels (above about 1 bar/14.7 psi). Of course it doesn't hurt, but 270 degree bearings were used with success for a long time.

The thrust bearing mounts with a couple little screws in the CHRA. The size may need to be changed, or a new location drilled a tapped. I haven't had my spare turbo completely apart yet to know for sure.
Old 12-25-10 | 03:32 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Hypertek
ok i see.

I just need to find a rebuild kit wiht the carbon seal?
i just ordered this turbo for the compressor and wheel, so more than likely it would be encapsulated carbon seal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
now for the 360 bearing to fit , there needs to be some tweaking done? ive searched google and havent seen anything about that.
yes,, some kits have it, others have a front dynamic seal instead
else
the carbon seal can be bought separate,, or is sometimes a specified exchange in some kits
some are three or four pieces assemble yourself and others like the hitachi one come assembled one piece

the 360 bearing requires tapping the CHRA in two spots for grub screws
-- one of which you must depth mark the drill bit as the depth must be exacting else it will ruin the CHRA

Last edited by bumpstart; 12-25-10 at 03:34 AM.
Old 12-25-10 | 08:09 AM
  #41  
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i would just keep the 270 to keep it simple, or if the new T04B chra has a 360, use that. the front seal (1-piece carbon or dynamic) will depend on your T04B compressor backplate, just take the compressor section apart and see what seal it uses.

gpopshop's page has some pictures fo teh differences:

http://gpopshop.com/garrett-t3-t4-t3t4-kits-2

stock uses the carbon seal, most aftermarket use dynamic seal in my experience.

also to change out the journal bearings, if you dont have a tool, you can take a dremel to some needlenose pliars to make a better point to get the retainers out
Old 12-25-10 | 06:12 PM
  #42  
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This really makes me want to learn how to build my own turbo's
Old 12-25-10 | 10:20 PM
  #43  
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this thread needs to be archived.
Old 12-25-10 | 11:43 PM
  #44  
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wait til i build mine, ill document it.. but i think my engine needs a rebuild as well =(

Ill wait to my t04b donor gets here then decide which rebuild kit to go with.
Gpopshop is the only place i can find a kit with the Encapsulated Carbon Seal. Ill see what my donor turbo has.
Old 12-30-10 | 06:59 AM
  #45  
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kit
- as this is using a hogged HT-18s hifi'd cover
,, many of the 0.60 cover flanges are not usable,, nor is the extra supplied dynamic seal
the 270 bearing is a steel 3 hole HD one
-- 360 is not necessary here due to the combo of backcut rear and conserative compressor wheel selection
aim here is for a turbo operating around 15 psi boost with minimal backpressure ratio to avoid axial thrusting across the core
( which is why bigger hiflows demand a 360 bearing )



bits,, T ( 6 ) to4b trim wheel and back-cut rear turbine backing plate machined to 71 mm for the 70 major diameter of the compressor


rating the compressor conservatively with the heaviest conversion factors--

1lb/min = 14.27046 CFM
54mm TO4B T ( 6 ) compressor wheel = 44 lb/min
= 628 CFM
628 CFM/1.92
= 327 engine BHP
327BHP x 0.85
= 278 RWHP


cover is hogged to 54.5 ID,, the inside is also profiled to suit the 70mm wide tips and there height




use carb cleaner to ensure all the passages are cleaned







install bearings and circlips
( i leave the mazda inner clips in place,, as they are difficult for common fine needle nose pliers to reach for )




use a socket to drive out the old front carbon seal


use a ring spanner with love taps around the outside rim of the new seal to drive it home


note the magic trick to prevent thrusting and lifting of the collet from the front seal
-- doubled up spider washers !

Last edited by bumpstart; 12-30-10 at 07:03 AM.
Old 12-30-10 | 07:45 AM
  #46  
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install the rear dynamic seal by walking it up the grooves one end at a time
-careful not to stretch it !


all home in a clean groove , AOK


install the rear heat shield
be aware that very early HT-18S for s4
( sometimes obvious by the use of smaller banjo's for cooling water )
that the original design uses a double heat shield,,one inside another
and so the rear turbine housing made for thus have a deeper step to sit the cartridge with double shields into
- if using this turbine housing you need the double shields ,, or some tricks to account for the missing deck height
( namely a ring of copper wire in the housing step )



270 installation,, there is a front and a rear side,, so align oil gallery pickup to the cartridge face




installed front plate,, 360 bearing collet and the rear turbine with shaft

care is taken when installing the rear shaft and seal into the cartridge
- if you flip the rear wheel up vertical ,, you can see the seal from the rear of the heat shield
using fine screw drivers,, you can tease in the dynamic seal so it goes into the cartridge without force


dab of glue to help against unwinding under boost or reversion
- mazda and garrett use conventional direction thread
- i reuse the mazda nut ,, as its a metric spanner ( 10mm ) unlike the garret one


multispanner grabs the rear shaft without any damage ,,
and be careful with the tension, shafts are easy to bend
( and why in previous pics it was undone with heat help )



core is done,, this one aligned back to the original disassemble marks so i wont bother with re-balance
( and i have done that many times,, and not had much issues )
- each part has its own dynamic balance built in,, and if the front isnt massively huge a re balance is often not necessary for some applications
( some mechs often don't do it for diesel trucks ,, just mix and match off the shelf )
Old 12-30-10 | 10:08 AM
  #47  
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lol I've tried this on a s5 hotside. I got the regular t3/t4 turbo. .50 compressor housing and .60 compressor housing. Hotside was regular .68, but I clipped the turbine wheel myself and ported the hotside to get the wheel to fit.

Turbo pulled nasty hard on 14psi, I never had standalone for the hybrid but I'm sure it would of boosted 20psi no problems. Also the turbo lasted as long as the motor did, 6 port high compression turbo doesn't help... But for the most part, full spool was 3,500rpm because wastegate wasn't fully seated.

It's not that bad as everything thinks.

Now i'm aftermarket manifold and different turbo.
Old 01-04-11 | 03:20 PM
  #48  
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The donor arrived today

Would have been nice of them if they had left me an extra inch of that coupling lol

I might do a write up for my buddies website. Dirty lil btch. It is seized, hopefully doesnt give me a problem getting the compressor off, that and the housing is all Im going to use from it anyways. I may need to order a new actuator and or bracket. Tap the housing for a actuator vacum source.
Old 01-04-11 | 10:21 PM
  #49  
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Got it apart
What a pig! dirty as fck. but having it seized really helped alot as I didnt have to lock the hotside.


compressor a/r .60
Measuered the compressor wheel
inducer 55/ exducer 70mm


That is a carbon encapsulated seal right?
Old 01-05-11 | 06:16 PM
  #50  
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nice. yeah that appears to be carbon seal. and the compressor wheel is a v-trim i believe


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