Build up Thread for 91 vert
#101
That’s what I tried. I inserted a wire into the dingle green plug near the coil pack, and grounded the other end and tuned the car no (Not started) and the check engine light lit up went off for 2.75 sec then stayed on.
Would the trailing coil pack cause enough loss of power that would make it not rev fully, because it feels like threes not enough rpms.
Would the trailing coil pack cause enough loss of power that would make it not rev fully, because it feels like threes not enough rpms.
#107
If you are getting spark on the leading coil and the timing is right your ignition is probably good. My guess is that you have some sort of fuel issue. I'm not sure how hard it is to do on an NA but you could pull the injectors and the rail give um some power and see how they are spraying.
Also not to bust your ***** but you misspelled amount in "Ammount sunk in"
Also not to bust your ***** but you misspelled amount in "Ammount sunk in"
#109
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Personally i would send your injectors out for cleaning, cost me $65. No matter if they work or not, getting them cleaned will help with power and will stop any flooding problems before they start. Well worth the $$.
Plus that will mean one less thing for you to worry about. Also change your fuel filter and pull the fuel pump and check it. My gas tank was so rusty that the sock clogged and the car would barely run.
Plus that will mean one less thing for you to worry about. Also change your fuel filter and pull the fuel pump and check it. My gas tank was so rusty that the sock clogged and the car would barely run.
#114
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Simple, buy a cheap timing light and use it. Shine it on the crank pulley and see if the pin lines up with the timing marks.
If so then you are good, if not then you will need to turn the CAS until it lines up. You can try turing the CAS as is and see if it runs better in one place or another. just be sure to set the timing proper before doing any amount of real driving. you can get it real close though by ear.
If so then you are good, if not then you will need to turn the CAS until it lines up. You can try turing the CAS as is and see if it runs better in one place or another. just be sure to set the timing proper before doing any amount of real driving. you can get it real close though by ear.
#116
Well I have good news. I have new symptoms witch are:
1. after few seconds the tach dies. (Just put a working coil packs in)
2. if you ease into the gas it wont buck, but when you floor it bucks unless your over 3000 rpms
3. Adjusted timing and the idle is lower.
I’m considering sending the injectors out but id rather see if there’s anything thing i can do that might solve my problems a little bit faster and cheaper. So hit me with all your ideas
1. after few seconds the tach dies. (Just put a working coil packs in)
2. if you ease into the gas it wont buck, but when you floor it bucks unless your over 3000 rpms
3. Adjusted timing and the idle is lower.
I’m considering sending the injectors out but id rather see if there’s anything thing i can do that might solve my problems a little bit faster and cheaper. So hit me with all your ideas
#122
Found the problem. I believe that the 91 used the double sensors for the tps. I was about the do the adjustment when I was just playing around with the throttle I saw that the little thing above it looked as if it should move. Sure enough I moved it and it reved to about 2k and it started bucking. So here is the picture of the problem (I don’t know what to call it)[IMG]<a href="http://s446.photobucket.com/albums/qq187/Ryankoyou/?action=view¤t=buckingproblem.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq187/Ryankoyou/buckingproblem.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
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