Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

I got the housing today. After taking off the old one we used silicone and a gasket. but when it were putting it back on we realized that there are three screw holes and only 2 screws came off. So my really stupid question is there 3 or 2 screws that go on it?


In other news i got the spark plugs and the wires in also so after its up and running ill hopefully be changing those out this weekend maybe. Ill get arround to the oil change after the housing in all said and done with.


Also how much dose a full set of weather stripping cost about?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

My housing has 2 bolts holding it on.

do 2 of the holes line up? or did you get the wrong part.

No idea on the weather stipping.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

http://www.blackdragonauto.com

these guys have seals

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

The housing has 3 holes as well as the block, the seal only had 2 and the old housing only had 2 screws on it but had three holes as well.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well then it sounds like the old one was not right and this one is, just use it and be happy :-). lol

Or am i missing something? if the seal doesn't work use RTV.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Only reason I’m asking was because the old housing split right in half. So if the missing bolt caused that or lead to it then I know ill need another bolt.

It worked, there was a little leaking ( few drops) so we tightened the bolts down and it ran fine. I do really think mine needed the three bolts and somehow that old one fell out or was taken out witch lead it to crack in half.

Now there’s another problem. I think the water pump seals are leaking. I have some pictures of it running and the coolant running out.





Sorry the pictures aren’t the best, I’m not sure what to do because I haven’t expected this and haven’t any experience. What could it be?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Drive it for a little bit and see what happens, if it starts getting hot turn it off RIGHT AWAY.

though if you keep the water filled you should be fine. the seals could just be dry and after you drive it some seal themselves. just keep an eye on it.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

I let it idle for a good 15 mins; and then drove it up the drive way and back down it was fine. So dose that mean its fine because it didn’t leak or just that they swelled up and held together? If it’s the water pump should it be leaking antifreeze or water? Should I be looking for a new water pump and/or seals?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I would not worry about it at all for now. Drive it a little and just be easy on it at first and watch the gauges.

Then after a few trips around the block see what it looks like under the hood.

No leaking? then take it for a little harder drive. Get it nice and hot (gauge should never go above half though) and then pull it into the driveway and check all the fluids (except coolent, wait for it to cool down). everything look good? then you are fine, do acomplete tune-up and enjoy it.

If it is still leaking after some miles then cross that bridge when you get to it, a small leak is not a big deal, just remember to fill the coolent. I have been driving my car with a hole in the radator for a little bit now and not had a problem as long as i keep it topped off. Just need to get some $$$ to get a new one.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Well I’m working on waxing it now and tomorrow i plan on pulling it out and finishing waxing it.

On to the fender work now. The drivers side fender is well rusted it is an aftermarket fender (so I was told). Dose anyone know were to find the color code of your car i cant remember if it was in the vin or the firewall?

I’m going to pick up some touch up paint from Mazda some time this week and see how it comes out. I’m still not sure if I should replace the fender or just fix the one I have. I’m avoiding bondo what so ever, (Wont need it on this fender) so if it can’t be fixed then ill be looking for another fender.

epic

iTrader: (3)

wish i did man. but man parts from the dealer are always so dam expensive.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

lol there just a plain rip off from the dealer.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

How would you go about taking off the Mazda and Rx-7 logos on the trunk off along with the trim on the car? Is it just glued or is it secured?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I think both, though i am not totally sure. Why do you want to remove them?

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

There’s mold in between the letters and underneath, same with the trim.

Well I started it up today after changing the spark plugs and wires. It ran fine but as soon as I went up my drive way (a hill) it stalled out. It took numerous times to get it up but it managed. Then it didn’t have enough power to shift into second gear. It felt like it wasn’t getting enough spark. I’m thinking its the plugs and/or wires that I installed, maybe there not in all the way. Could that be causing it?

waltersaegir

Hang-in-there it's worth it.

I have an '88 Vert (bought in '88) and it keeps getting better.

Also, sounds like you got a great deal.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Could be spark or timing or fuel, or leaky injectors or or or or.

Was it fully warmed up when you drove it? Let it idle until it is fully warmed up then try driving it, before it is fully warmed the power will be way down and it will run a little rough.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Well it warmed up for about 5 mins. Ill let it warm up longer today and see what happens. I’m pretty sure its something with the spark, because when you press the gas down it rev, stop rev rev, stop, rev while the pedal was still down. After some more gas it went little better then stalled again.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The emblems have pins that fit into plastic receptacles on the body.
There are also a few strips of double sided tape (probably all dried out and no longer very sticky).

I was able to remove mine with just finger pressure prying...start at one end and try to lever it a little bit, move to the other end and repeat.
You should be able to tell where the pins are located soon enough and work in those areas till it pops free.
After cleaning the emblem and the body underneath, the emblem just pops back into place.

It's scary the first time but actually pretty simple.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Ok, now we think we found the problem. The coil pack for the trailing isn’t working leading me to believe that the trailing plugs are not working. The leading coils tested fine on the time gun. Could that be the problem and what could we do?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Could be the problem though the car will run without the rear coil at all. that is mainly there for emmiossions. But havign never had a problem with mine that is about where what i know about it stops.

It could be that but then it could not be.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

The symptoms are:
High idle
Trailing coils not sparking
Serious lack of power
Manual trans
Bog under load

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Well I have some horrific news.

First off I decided that why don’t I replace the plug wires maybe that’s causing it. so I took the new ones off and put the old ones on. It almost maid it up the hill on the first try. I retried it and boom straight up. So we went down the street, got it into 2nd and third not problem, then when we turned around it stalled. Started it back up and it wouldn’t move. It inched in all 5 gears. So after 5 mins of inching she started to go faster, then down the hill we coasted it into the driveway. Getting her into the garage was a mess, she wouldn’t stay alive and kept dieing. Not idea why. I was thinking it could be an ECU problem, maybe it wasn’t telling the coil pack to send the signal, but now I’m not sure.

Second the passenger tire was locked up not sure why the others were fine.

Third inside between the armrest and the passenger set it was warm, she only ran for about 15 mins not even. Could it be the exhaust?

The symptoms are:
Trailing coils not working
Serious lack of power
Wont stay started
Back pass wheel locked up
Leaking coolant
Stalling when going up hill or into 2000+ RPMS
Bucks when trying to shift
Tachometer not working
Bog under load

So now if anyone can help me I’m in dire need of getting this car running. Im looking for some spit balling so hit me with your ideas.

Thanks

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, your trailing coils are not working, the tach is not working due to that. It gets it's signal fromt he trailing coil.

The trailing coil will effect power a little but should not make this much of a differnce. Some people even remove the trailing coils (no idea why but i have seen it). Is the timing right? if the AFM hooked up and working? what about the TPS?

could be injectors as well, even the fuel pump.

I would try another ECU if you can though.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

I think the trailing coils are bad. I messed around with the spark plugs and changed out the new wires with the old ones and she ran really bad. I looked at the tach and it was working. About 20 seconds later it wasn’t as rough so I went and moved TPS it reved faster then slower, but I could tell that only half the engine was working, because it had no power. So I’m assuming that the coil is the problem. I’m going with the trailing coils are bad and ill be looking at buying one off apex auto parts as they have a 20% off on ebay right now so for 28 bucks ill go for it.