budget 13B Rebuild Help With Specs
#1
budget 13B Rebuild Help With Specs
so i am on a budget and i am rebuilding my engine. I had bad bad bad!!! housings and rotors so i bought healthy rotors and housings. My housings have a tiny grove, can they be sanded down with emery/sand paper? and what kind of grit should i use, anything watch out for. After i, in a sense smooth out my housings, i will be cleaning my housings and rotors in high pressure, hot water soap so clean. So if anyone has done this i would greatly appreciate your help. I posted another bulletin like this before but i was mixed up in what i was looking for so yeah, i was advised that my housings are still good since i am running a regular 13b NA so yeah, im still a youngster looking for some guidance so yeah thanks
here are some pix of my housings
here are some pix of my housings
#5
which scotch pads the green ones for the pots and pans? will that even out the small little grooves on the outer edges ?
so i can hot tank all the parts together housings Eshaft and irons ?
also so the scotch brite pads work? anyone else done this?
anyone?
if i hot tank the rotors and housings wouldn't that warp them?
so i can hot tank all the parts together housings Eshaft and irons ?
also so the scotch brite pads work? anyone else done this?
anyone?
if i hot tank the rotors and housings wouldn't that warp them?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 06-18-09 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Merged 4 posts...try the edit function
#6
Do they mean to use the scotch brite to clean the dirt off, or fix his little groove? I was reading, and found that if you use sand paper on the irons, you scratch off the chrome. Hopefully someone smarter can chime in... hopefully
P.S. IS a hot tank that bath tube full of kerosene that you'd put rusty parts in?
P.S. IS a hot tank that bath tube full of kerosene that you'd put rusty parts in?
#7
its not karosene its some sort of solvent i believe i am not sure
and i am hoping someone fills me in
because i really need help in what to use so i can fix those tiny grooves
and i am hoping someone fills me in
because i really need help in what to use so i can fix those tiny grooves
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#8
you can't really "fix" the grooves on the chrome surface, that's just wear. Is there any chrome flaking off the edge? There is a spec in the Haynes manual for that, but ideally you don't want any flake on the bottom edges.
When I cleaned my motor up I just scrubbed everything. Focus on cleaning out your coolant seal o-ring grooves on the irons so that you don't pinch a coolant seal. Also check your side seal to corner seal clearances. If they are too loose you will burn more oil than usual due to blowby and you would be best served with new side seals.
and whatever you do... when the motor is tensioned together, CHECK YOUR ENDPLAY on the front stack. i crushed a thrust bearing on my build and that would've been a horrible result if I hadn't caught it.
When I cleaned my motor up I just scrubbed everything. Focus on cleaning out your coolant seal o-ring grooves on the irons so that you don't pinch a coolant seal. Also check your side seal to corner seal clearances. If they are too loose you will burn more oil than usual due to blowby and you would be best served with new side seals.
and whatever you do... when the motor is tensioned together, CHECK YOUR ENDPLAY on the front stack. i crushed a thrust bearing on my build and that would've been a horrible result if I hadn't caught it.
#9
okay there is no chrome flaking on the housings
but how do i clean the inside with the scotch brite pad and carb cleaner
does it have to be all chrome or is it okay if it isn't?
but how do i clean the inside with the scotch brite pad and carb cleaner
does it have to be all chrome or is it okay if it isn't?
#10
assuming you did a thorough but not overly harsh cleaning, those discolored spots that remain are just wear. Watch this video (and all the videos) on the Pineapple Racing engine rebuild site:
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...Rotor_Housings
I just rebuilt my first engine and it ran fine, but I spent a long time watching all those videos and reading the factory rebuild procedure.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...Rotor_Housings
I just rebuilt my first engine and it ran fine, but I spent a long time watching all those videos and reading the factory rebuild procedure.
#11
So you had bad housings and bought healthy ones and rotors. The better ones are those in the pics. right? Just checking. Anyways, I personally just use carb. cleaner to get all the carbon out. I don't like using anything abrasive on any of the areas the seals dance around.
This is a budget build you say...what are you buying new? Are you checking/measuring wear on everything?
edit: looked at all the pictures again...what groove are you talking about...the edges with less wear of the rotor housings, where the apex seals don't touch? That's normal.
This is a budget build you say...what are you buying new? Are you checking/measuring wear on everything?
edit: looked at all the pictures again...what groove are you talking about...the edges with less wear of the rotor housings, where the apex seals don't touch? That's normal.
#12
okay so i learned how to check it
but would anyone recommend emery(metal sand paper to even out that groove) or just leave it as it is ?
umm ill take better pictures
it kinda hard since the camera doesnt really get the groove
ill post up a video actually
so i noticed i have some flakes after all on the outer outer edge is that going to be a problem?
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so this is actually what i want to do
i have a s5 na that i want to rebuild
i am going to use the basic rebuild kit from rotary aviation
i am going to use s4 t2 sleeves on the s5 na housings
and do a medium street port using the pineapple racing templates
i am also planning on using their 6 port inserts and banzai racing block off plates
so thats my plan
so here are the questions troubling my mind right now
will those grooves on my housings pose a problem?
will the little flaking on the edge pose a problem?
the housings bad?
but would anyone recommend emery(metal sand paper to even out that groove) or just leave it as it is ?
umm ill take better pictures
it kinda hard since the camera doesnt really get the groove
ill post up a video actually
so i noticed i have some flakes after all on the outer outer edge is that going to be a problem?
<object width="445" height="364"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/54_JJPq4Xwg&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd 311b&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/54_JJPq4Xwg&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd 311b&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="445" height="364"></embed></object>
so this is actually what i want to do
i have a s5 na that i want to rebuild
i am going to use the basic rebuild kit from rotary aviation
i am going to use s4 t2 sleeves on the s5 na housings
and do a medium street port using the pineapple racing templates
i am also planning on using their 6 port inserts and banzai racing block off plates
so thats my plan
so here are the questions troubling my mind right now
will those grooves on my housings pose a problem?
will the little flaking on the edge pose a problem?
the housings bad?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 06-18-09 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Merge 4 posts...seriously, edit function
#15
If I recall correctly so did mine. I even used a front iron with five thousands pitting marks on the face of the iron. Something I won't recommend but proof that budget motors can be built with a whole lot of interesting stuff.
You have already gone for the budget build...but what are your expectations? Those irons look good enough to last 20k+ miles. Is that acceptable? Do you need something that guarantees 100k+ miles or so?
You have already gone for the budget build...but what are your expectations? Those irons look good enough to last 20k+ miles. Is that acceptable? Do you need something that guarantees 100k+ miles or so?
#19
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Mazda's limit for chrome flaking is around 1/4". That's quite a lot.
It's very normal to get flaking around the combustion and exhaust port area. For a daily driver that just needs to work, those housings are fine. The engine will not be spectacular but will do the job.
It's very normal to get flaking around the combustion and exhaust port area. For a daily driver that just needs to work, those housings are fine. The engine will not be spectacular but will do the job.
#24
i got these housings from willow at lucky7 if anyone is curious
and ummm yeah i am awaiting a better housing from him one with no chrome flakes
and as for you guys who bothered to help me with my question i appreciate all your knowledge and time thank you
i am almost set to start the rebuild
just a few curious questions
i am going to hot tank my irons for sure and the oil pan dow pins etc
but can i hot tank the housings or will they warp?
i am not going to hot tank the rotors because they might warp and i don't want that
but what about the housings?
and ummm yeah i am awaiting a better housing from him one with no chrome flakes
and as for you guys who bothered to help me with my question i appreciate all your knowledge and time thank you
i am almost set to start the rebuild
just a few curious questions
i am going to hot tank my irons for sure and the oil pan dow pins etc
but can i hot tank the housings or will they warp?
i am not going to hot tank the rotors because they might warp and i don't want that
but what about the housings?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 06-20-09 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Merge two posts