in those rpm ranges it bucks like crazy, its an s5 engine e/ s4 externals the secondarys were siezed an so i removes and rplaced them, and my pump couldnt handle it, os there in but the vac line to them isnt. and when we put them in it started so we dis connected them, still same prob, so we just unplugged the vac line and it ran fine, the just started up again! im lost, its exactly like it was before, but ive got bucking now!

 

i was told that my fuel pump may not be strong enough? that sound right?

 

unless you did a turbo conversion or you pump is shot, the fuel pump is not a problem. Other than that im kinda confused as to what the problem is.

 

Search

 

lol
yoy search for me and tell me what u find

 

ok sideways the problem is my car is bucking like a bronco, i stalls out randomly, and when the secondarys are hooked up it goes crazy, thats the problem

 

Check for vac leaks. You also could have a clogged fuel filter/sock. Do you have a bad idle at all?

 

its picky, sometimes its rock solid, sometimes its erradic as hell

 

I'm gonna go with a vac leak, then. Just use starter fluid or whatever to check all over for a vac leak. If you dont know when the fuel filter was last changed, it might be a good idea to do it. Dont get it from mazda, either. Use Mazdatrix.

 

changed the fuel pump to a masters fuel pump, fuel filters clean, but i still have the hesitation, and even though the secondarys are plugged in and they work, they wont come on? whats the deal?

 

do you have the alternator relocation bracket?

just a thought. there are 3 cases now of cars with that bracket killing alternators or what ever and the alternator throwing off lots of EMI or noise that the CAS is picking up on.

Causing bucking... and hesitation.

When it bucks or hesitates does the tack look like its dropping like 400rpms instantly and then going back to there it was?


There is a thread in the haltech section on this problems and videos oif the problem too.

I had the same symptoms... and it was the same deal. Replacing the alternator fixed it. If you are lost and want to check if this is it.... remove the alternator from the car totally.... and see if the bucking is gone.

 

i dont have that bracket, but could it still be the alternator?

 

It is pore groundings try doing a grounding upgrade or cloged fuel injectors.

Have fun.

 

ok, i put in new gas and that water stuff that cleans out water. now it doesnt die as much and i really only notice the hesitation at 3500 and between 6000 and 6500, so what majior things happen there? i did the fuel injector mod so my secondarys open up at 3500 so that can explain that one but the other? and i still dont feel the secondarys come on.

btw the mod is in the fsm, you cap off the pressure sensor and it will ALWAYS open your secondarys at 3500.

 

just an idea do you have the trailing plug wires right?...T 1 to front... T2 to rear..it willl buck like nuts if you have done that..mine did..leading doesn't matter(LOWER PLUGS)

 

yeah, and strangest thing, it went away, like all together, gone!im not complaining, but it just dissappered! although my secondarys still dont work, any ideas?

 

Was it wet out today?
If it changes with the weather then it's definetley electrical, probably a ground issue.

 

so ..you sayin the buckin stopped after correcting the wires ..please say what you did ..if you did do anything..info helps..dreyko..did it just stop suddenly without you doing anything?..

 

well i disconnected my alterr\nator and removed the belt and drove around, but it was still there and didnt go away after putting it back on, it just went away while i was driving, like there was something in the lines.

 

itsm back! i dont know what the hell to do. im wondering if maybe my engine runs either too rich or too lean and thats causing my prob. still not sure though.

 

drive up to kevin landers and have him fix it for you....

 

Thats not a bad idea....though im sure you will need to make arrangements beforehand....as I managed to get soem work in this weekend by him only because hes waiting for parts on a pair of rebuilds

 

I had this exact problem. Or something very similar to it anyways...

It happened all of a sudden. Car ran great, I was driving home and it started bucking and kicking and would idle on one rotor. I thought I'd blown the motor at first.

After close to a month of diagnosing and looking for problems I found the specific symptoms to be this:

The car would idle fine on startup (sometimes took a little gas to get it started though) but as soon as it reached operating temperature it would idle on one rotor.

If I drove, the car would also drive just fine until operating temperature then buck and kick as though it was misfiring. At WOT it would buck and kick for an instant, then get a surge of smooth power and take off with perfect smoothness.

Ultimately, I replaced the fuel pump and sock, fuel filter, trailing coil, MAF, IAT sensor, O2 sensor; adjusted the tps, cas, ran fuel injector cleaner through the lines and a couple other things, ran all new ground wires, double checked the ignition wires and plugs, etc.

Finally I took out all 4 fuel injectors and had them sonic bathed and flow tested. The primaries were both quite badly restricted and the secondaries were almost COMPLETELY clogged!

Put the injectors back in after cleaning and the car ran like a dream.

So yeah, go have your injectors cleaned.

 

thx, ive actually got 2 injector i can swap in for my primarys, my secondarys were just swapped tho, but they were used ones. is there any way to test them yourself

 

btw how do you know if it idles on one rotor?