Bucking cold, stalling on idle after highway.
#1
Bucking cold, stalling on idle after highway.
Just cleaned my air filter, oil change less than 2,400 ago.
Was late for work, jumped in the car, started up, idled fine, put it into reverse and it showed some symptoms of trying to buck on me, and then I went into first and at 2kRPM it started getting really bad, and its 2kRPM every gear until it warms up.
After highway driving and the engine is really warm, the RPM will fluxuate and idle around 600-700, and dip down into 400-500 until it dies (takes a few minutes)
This is all recent. Also when I'm driving, there is power loss around 3.5krpm and it picks back up at 4k, almost like I'm not getting enough fuel, but only in this tach. area. And the power loss is not new, ever since my rebuild it's been an issue.
Was late for work, jumped in the car, started up, idled fine, put it into reverse and it showed some symptoms of trying to buck on me, and then I went into first and at 2kRPM it started getting really bad, and its 2kRPM every gear until it warms up.
After highway driving and the engine is really warm, the RPM will fluxuate and idle around 600-700, and dip down into 400-500 until it dies (takes a few minutes)
This is all recent. Also when I'm driving, there is power loss around 3.5krpm and it picks back up at 4k, almost like I'm not getting enough fuel, but only in this tach. area. And the power loss is not new, ever since my rebuild it's been an issue.
#3
Limped to Oreillys, ordered a fuel filter, got a thermostat and seafoam, also found out that I hadn't switched my 86' 326 ecu for my 88' engine 327 ecu, so I did that as well
#4
Old thermostat seemed to be sticking a little, replaced anyway even tho it opened with a little push.
There was NO fuel filter on my FC until this afternoon, so any particles that made it past the strainer in the tank may be clogging up my injectors. The 'bucking' no longer exists, however, it has been replaced by a "brpprpprp-p-p-p-p" loss of power, like it is only on one rotor, I'll check the plugs tomorrow.
All of my issues sort themselves out, I unplugged the BAC and my idle stopped bouncing around, it settles on 750rpm, doesn't fluctuate, and it does not die after any running on the highway.
So now I am left with this kind of loss of power, only for about 15 seconds after I start the car and put it in drive. And it is every time I start the car, the bucking was only when it was cold.
Will grab the NGK plugs off my old motor tomorrow, they have less than 6k miles, these currently have about 30k
Let me know if you have any ideas.
There was NO fuel filter on my FC until this afternoon, so any particles that made it past the strainer in the tank may be clogging up my injectors. The 'bucking' no longer exists, however, it has been replaced by a "brpprpprp-p-p-p-p" loss of power, like it is only on one rotor, I'll check the plugs tomorrow.
All of my issues sort themselves out, I unplugged the BAC and my idle stopped bouncing around, it settles on 750rpm, doesn't fluctuate, and it does not die after any running on the highway.
So now I am left with this kind of loss of power, only for about 15 seconds after I start the car and put it in drive. And it is every time I start the car, the bucking was only when it was cold.
Will grab the NGK plugs off my old motor tomorrow, they have less than 6k miles, these currently have about 30k
Let me know if you have any ideas.
#5
yeah that ecu definitely plays a big roll on idling. but now it sounds more like injector problems try switching your injectors. Also check your tps for specs. I've had that go out and make it so the car wouldnt even idle. Just ended up swapping it with another one.
#7
Bingo. There was no fuel filter. I checked everywhere, and where the FSM shows there to be one, the bracket doesn't exist. I found where it SHOULD be, and there are hose clamps on a brass connector, but that was soon replaced with OEM parts.
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