Hey all,
So I finally got the bottom strut mount bolt mount out that broke off. Took some heat, pb blaster and a breaker bar. Did it with no air tools. Pic attached. If you ever break this bottom strut bolt, you do not need to take it to a machine shop to extract the broken bolt.
This is thanks to a few members for all the help if it wasn't for them I would be outside in the cold (25 degrees)now taking out my whole rear trailing arm.
The bolt you see in the pic is clearly and cleanly broken off to the hole nothing to grab.
Simply use a 1 1/8" wrench and breaker bar, pb blaster it, have a beer, heat it up good and hot, and spin it out.

Thanks to all that helped with my problem.

 

I don't understand. I see that bit sticking out. How did you attach that to a cleanly broken off bolt that had nothing to grab?

 

The strut bolt is broken off in that stud you see in the pic. The stud is fully unscrewed in the pic. Ill take a close up pic of the stud with the broken bolt in it.
There was absolutly nothing to grab it was cleanly broken off inside. You cant see the strut bolt in the pic as it is in the stud you see.

 

Vice grips?

 

There was no bolt left to grab. I think people are misunderstanding what the pic shows.
See the stud I have unscrewed? That stud gets screwed into the trailing arm, it has a flat stud that the strut goes onto. Then the bolt goes through the strut on the bottom and into that stud.
Now when I was trying to take out the strut bolt, it broke off into that stud, cleanly with nothing to grab. So when I posted I broke the bolt, someone said I would have to take the entire trailing arm off and bring it to a machine shop to extract it.
BUT
you dont have to. The strut mount, unscrews from the trailing arm. So there is no need to take off the trailing arm to replace/extract the bolt.

Ill get a better pic of the bolt broken off into the strut mount. That stud you see, is not the strut bolt. That stud is the strut mount which the strut bolt is broken off into.

 

Glad to hear you got that out! I'm sure you were less then happy when you first saw that.

where in vermont are you? I've been seeing a few more FC's running around my area now, is yours black with a spoiler? I'm getting ready to throw some rockers on my FC and repair some sections on the inner rocker (pretty much only bad rust on the car, mostly on passenger side). I have a subaru impreza 2.5rs that I drive in the winter but I think it might have a bearing starting to go so need to prep the FC for winter. I'm in Derby/Newport area and am getting into drifting along with a friend in a sileighty. obviously we are eager to meet fellow car enthusiasts, especially another rotary up here as there aren't many. oh, and we're 23-24 years old if that matters,lol.

 

Hey,
I wasn't to happy about it snapping, then I made my first post on the issue to get a response that I had to remove the whole rear trailing arm, then I was really unhappy lol. But luckily silverfc chimmed in and said all I had to do was remove the strut mount, which I guess some do not know about. Its all good now, part comming in today and I am so happy my fc will be back on the road again.

Mines grey, no wing & has a lot of dents due to a hail storm in went through. Passenger side, hood, roof, got it preaty bad. Going to be doing the body work this spring to get all the dents done. Probably just get new fenders, hood, and passenger door and do the rest with body work. The car is about 98% rust free even though I bought it in New Hampshire. The previous owners didn't drive it in the winter and owned it preaty much its whole life.

Im in Lyndon so actually only about 30 miles away from newport. Yea I don't see any FC's (well any rx7's for that matter) around here.
It would be great to get a few rx's to do a little cruising around/fun times. Right now just trying to get it roadworthy again. When I bought it there where a lot of things that had to be replaced but I am almost done everything besides the body work.
Sometime throw me a pm and we'll get together. I got a 3 car garage, space to work and a pool table for break time lol. If your ever bored or need somespace to work, hit me up. I wont be driving my rx in the snow though.
Oh and I'm 31.

 

Well here are the better pics of the bolt broken inside the strut mount. As you can see there is about 1 thread sticking out and I tried 4 or 5 different vice grips and none would hold the broken bolt to get out.

 

I can think of a couple things to do on this.
One is to obviously get another Part like that.
SECOND: In a PINCH type Scenario: weld a small Piece of Threaded Rod/bolt whatever, to the area where the Bolt snapped.So you will now have a portion of Threaded Bolt where that piece had snapped off.
That will give you something to Put the washer back onto and then Use a NUT to hold the shock and washer onto that piece.

 

oh, wow. looks like your only option is to either get another one of that bolt and part it goes into OR weld another small bolt/rod to that one as already stated. I can't tell how big it is so if its on the small side, it would be really easy to accidently weld to the part it screws into too. if you weld, just a couple tack welds should do but be careful. You could try one of those bolt extractors made for broken bolts but if its stuck in there good, they won't work that well. hell, I have had a broken bolt that wasn't stuck that bad (turned halfway out and then snapped from rust, nothing to grab on to) and tried one of the extractor things but it didn't work very well. it was a chore to get it to even grab onto the bolt. needless to say, I didn't get the bolt out and had no welder at that time. only a fender bolt though under hood so I didn't worry too much.

 

I got a new part and the rx is back on the road!

 

I like a story with a Happy Ending!
Good Stuff,now go pull a couple celebratory Donuts!!!

 

good to here, I'm running into a lot more work then I thought replacing my rusty bondo/fiberglass rockers. stupid previous owner did not know how to fix metal work at all. getting it done little by little though and should be done by late next week at the latest. If its not too much of a big deal to you, we should meet up sometime when I get my car done and hangout and I am interested in moving your shifter around to see how it feels. mine feels kinda heavy and unusual and am wondering if it needs new bushings.

 

I hate fixing rot. Im so glad mine has none. Other than dents to fill, I won't be needing much filler. (to many to just pull em out.)
My shifter is a little sloppy, needs new bushings also. Not real sloppy but enough to bug the crap outta me lol. I thought it gets really sloppy if you need new bushings, not a heavy feel? I could be wrong still on the learning curve on these cars.
Id go pull some donuts, except, the nokian snow tires I have on the rear are real sticky being brand new. Dunno if I could.
All I need to do now is front struts, and go through all the bushings.

First on my agenda is replace all 4 brake hoses with the stainless ones I just got the other day. Probably do that this week along with the oil change before it goes into the garage till spring. Snows gonna be flying anytime.

 

I here ya, I am cutting a lot more sections out then I thought although I am doing the worst side first. the drivers side is much better. I don't know whats up with my shifter. it slides around fine, just kinda like its half in mud. might need new tranny fluid I guess.

a lot of people don't realize this but you can get 4 piston front calipers brand new or refurbished from the factory for a decent price at a lot of auto stores as long as you give them your cores. I had 4 piston calipers to begin with but the were froze solid when I got the car and I got new ones with core for $100 at advance auto (most expensive place up here usually too). Just so you're in the know as most members here seem to charge almost the same for used ones if you are looking to upgrade from the 2 pistons.

I know a decent amount about these cars now because I just read every now and then in the 2nd gen forum about random problems people are having just in case I encounter them. I really wish I still had my garage so I can get my car ready for spring. I got some body work to do too after I fix my current problems. I'll have to wait till spring to get it in primer I guess.

 

whats that part called??

 

Mazda calls it a rear damper bolt, F044-28-398A for the S4, and it IS different from S5

 

does anyone have any one happen to know the part number bet for the rear bottom strut stud??? I have looked every where and cannot fine the part