broke ez out in attempt to remove broken water pump stud..need advice
#1
broke ez out in attempt to remove broken water pump stud..need advice
so in my attempt to remove a broken stud one of the ez outs i was using snapped in there. i know its a bitch to drill through..just looking for some more options
you can see in this pic what stud is missing...
could i get the water pump tight enough and just not use that stud at all?
you can see in this pic what stud is missing...
could i get the water pump tight enough and just not use that stud at all?
#4
Water pumps will leak if they are not properly fastened.
Try removing the rest of the bolts and remove the water pump.
The broken bolt might be protruding out of the casting enough to work it out from there.
If it broke flush to the casting, you might have to drill it out.
Use a good center punch exactly in the center of the bolt/extractor.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to start and
Drill slowly!!! Otherwise you will ruin your bit in half a second. The slower the better. Especially in hard metals.
Apply cutting oil to the drill bit every 15 seconds of drilling.
After you can drill it again using a slightly bigger bit.
Please see if other members have anything to add/correct in these methods before trying it out.
Good luck.
Try removing the rest of the bolts and remove the water pump.
The broken bolt might be protruding out of the casting enough to work it out from there.
If it broke flush to the casting, you might have to drill it out.
Use a good center punch exactly in the center of the bolt/extractor.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to start and
Drill slowly!!! Otherwise you will ruin your bit in half a second. The slower the better. Especially in hard metals.
Apply cutting oil to the drill bit every 15 seconds of drilling.
After you can drill it again using a slightly bigger bit.
Please see if other members have anything to add/correct in these methods before trying it out.
Good luck.
#5
if the pump isnt fully secured, or if you are missing the shim behind it, it will vibrate violently and explode.......not even kidding.
how hard was the stud/easy out that was in there? if its the same grade as the bolts in the car, you can try just drilling the entire stud out and then take a dentist pick or something similar and pick out any remaining threads stuck in there. worst comes to worst, drill the hole out bigger and heli coil it.
how hard was the stud/easy out that was in there? if its the same grade as the bolts in the car, you can try just drilling the entire stud out and then take a dentist pick or something similar and pick out any remaining threads stuck in there. worst comes to worst, drill the hole out bigger and heli coil it.
#7
4th string e-armchair QB
iTrader: (11)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
Water pumps will leak if they are not properly fastened.
Try removing the rest of the bolts and remove the water pump.
The broken bolt might be protruding out of the casting enough to work it out from there.
If it broke flush to the casting, you might have to drill it out.
Use a good center punch exactly in the center of the bolt/extractor.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to start and
Drill slowly!!! Otherwise you will ruin your bit in half a second. The slower the better. Especially in hard metals.
Apply cutting oil to the drill bit every 15 seconds of drilling.
After you can drill it again using a slightly bigger bit.
Please see if other members have anything to add/correct in these methods before trying it out.
Good luck.
Try removing the rest of the bolts and remove the water pump.
The broken bolt might be protruding out of the casting enough to work it out from there.
If it broke flush to the casting, you might have to drill it out.
Use a good center punch exactly in the center of the bolt/extractor.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to start and
Drill slowly!!! Otherwise you will ruin your bit in half a second. The slower the better. Especially in hard metals.
Apply cutting oil to the drill bit every 15 seconds of drilling.
After you can drill it again using a slightly bigger bit.
Please see if other members have anything to add/correct in these methods before trying it out.
Good luck.
Yellow circle: Flush-broken stud
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#10
Get a new drill bit try it again.
DRILL IT SLOWLY!!!
Slow as in, barely turning. I can't emphasize enough on this.
It wont dig in the hard material unless the bit is extremely sharp. (see: brand new).
DRILL IT SLOWLY!!!
Slow as in, barely turning. I can't emphasize enough on this.
It wont dig in the hard material unless the bit is extremely sharp. (see: brand new).
#11
Oh, that really sucks. EZouts are made with good hard tool steel. Do they make carbide drill bits? You're going to need something that is harder that your ez-out, and normal drill bits aren't going to cut it (sic).
#13
You can get a carbide drill bit, but your gonna have to be so freaking steady to keep it from breaking you're unlikely to get it done.
I don't have a rotary engine in my car so I can't look to see the stud area, but if you can get a drill to the back side and hog out the hole from the back side you can always Heli-Coil it.
If you know someone with a TIG welder they could possible weld to the frozen stud/EZ Out and turn it out.
You could also try using a punch to break the EZ Out apart (It's hard but brittle), you'll need to resharpen it a couple times.
Last Resort is get it to a machine shop that can use an EDM setup to burn the tap and bolt out.
I don't have a rotary engine in my car so I can't look to see the stud area, but if you can get a drill to the back side and hog out the hole from the back side you can always Heli-Coil it.
If you know someone with a TIG welder they could possible weld to the frozen stud/EZ Out and turn it out.
You could also try using a punch to break the EZ Out apart (It's hard but brittle), you'll need to resharpen it a couple times.
Last Resort is get it to a machine shop that can use an EDM setup to burn the tap and bolt out.
#14
I've NEVER had a situation in which a bolt extractor actually worked. If they don't come out easily, the threads have rusted and your SOL. Rust has a larger volume the steel because of the added oxygen in the chemical reaction, so the small spaces between the threads have disappeared.
If I break a tap I pull out the die grinder/ dremel and go to town with a pointed grinding stone. You can grind out the entire bit, but I grind a large enough hole to weaken the bit and then pull out the 'Hammer of God' and a cold punch/ chisel to finally break the bit. Then your back to square one.
Drill out the hole and tap for a larger size and use a Timesert.
Use Loctite or anti-seize to prevent this problem from reoccurring.
If I break a tap I pull out the die grinder/ dremel and go to town with a pointed grinding stone. You can grind out the entire bit, but I grind a large enough hole to weaken the bit and then pull out the 'Hammer of God' and a cold punch/ chisel to finally break the bit. Then your back to square one.
Drill out the hole and tap for a larger size and use a Timesert.
Use Loctite or anti-seize to prevent this problem from reoccurring.
#17
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxnm8J9WXz8
just watched this and thought it was pretty cool. i still would have to drill through the ez out and remaining stud tho... im gonna get a new bit tomorrow
just watched this and thought it was pretty cool. i still would have to drill through the ez out and remaining stud tho... im gonna get a new bit tomorrow
#18
you can get a grinding bit at home depot/Loews basically looks like a grinding wheel in drill bit form. Grind a hole in the middle of the easy out then use a left hand drill bit in the hole you just grinded out. This will give it a little extra ease in starting out
#19
you can get a grinding bit at home depot/Loews basically looks like a grinding wheel in drill bit form. Grind a hole in the middle of the easy out then use a left hand drill bit in the hole you just grinded out. This will give it a little extra ease in starting out
#20
#21
You can get a carbide drill bit, but your gonna have to be so freaking steady to keep it from breaking you're unlikely to get it done.
I don't have a rotary engine in my car so I can't look to see the stud area, but if you can get a drill to the back side and hog out the hole from the back side you can always Heli-Coil it.
If you know someone with a TIG welder they could possible weld to the frozen stud/EZ Out and turn it out.
You could also try using a punch to break the EZ Out apart (It's hard but brittle), you'll need to resharpen it a couple times.
Last Resort is get it to a machine shop that can use an EDM setup to burn the tap and bolt out.
I don't have a rotary engine in my car so I can't look to see the stud area, but if you can get a drill to the back side and hog out the hole from the back side you can always Heli-Coil it.
If you know someone with a TIG welder they could possible weld to the frozen stud/EZ Out and turn it out.
You could also try using a punch to break the EZ Out apart (It's hard but brittle), you'll need to resharpen it a couple times.
Last Resort is get it to a machine shop that can use an EDM setup to burn the tap and bolt out.
I'd say it's 50/50 that the whole front cover is going to have to come off in order to fix this properly now.
EZ Outs are the work of the devil. Like YaNi, I've never seen them work and when they break you're in a world of hurt.
#22
anyone close by who can give me a hand?
heres the low down now..the ezout isnt dead center of the stud..its more toward the top. i ended up drilling completly through the stud but underneath the ez-out. (i screwed up, i know this). the part of the ezout that is stuck is basically just the tip..its a relatively small piece. i have faith that i can get it out (the little piece) ..just haven't succeeded yet.
right now im wondering if i go with the heli coil and use a bigger drill bit to drill out the threads and make a new hole if it would knock out the ez out along the way...or if it would screw it up even more.
heres the low down now..the ezout isnt dead center of the stud..its more toward the top. i ended up drilling completly through the stud but underneath the ez-out. (i screwed up, i know this). the part of the ezout that is stuck is basically just the tip..its a relatively small piece. i have faith that i can get it out (the little piece) ..just haven't succeeded yet.
right now im wondering if i go with the heli coil and use a bigger drill bit to drill out the threads and make a new hole if it would knock out the ez out along the way...or if it would screw it up even more.
#23
You have to get the piece of EZOut out of there.
Ian's suggestion of the hammer/punch is probably your best bet...the remaining chunk is brittle and will probably break into pieces and fall out.
After that I don't know how you're going to proceed.
In order to Helicoil the hole, you have to be able to redrill oversize exactly dead center.
Every misdrilled pilot hole makes this more difficult.
Ian's suggestion of the hammer/punch is probably your best bet...the remaining chunk is brittle and will probably break into pieces and fall out.
After that I don't know how you're going to proceed.
In order to Helicoil the hole, you have to be able to redrill oversize exactly dead center.
Every misdrilled pilot hole makes this more difficult.
#25
EZ-outs are made of carbon steel. There is no way it will drill out. I broke an ez-out while trying to get a broken bolt out of a waterpump housing. I attempted to drill it out with no success. I then took it to a speed-shop and they said the only way to get it out was to have a piece of high strenth steel welding on with a mig welder. I ended up using a different water-pump housing.