brakes sqeal and piss me off...
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: White Hall, MD
brakes sqeal and **** me off...
Ok.... three times now i have taken my brakes apart to try to stop the squealing.... now its pissing me off.... i replaced the old brakes with newer mid quality napa bads.... there were no squeals before i changed the pads... now they squeal whenever im not breaking.... i am using the original shims from the old brakes.... should i not use the shims... the strange thing is the passenger side doesnt squeal as much... also it seems to squeal when the wheels are turned certain ways... like if i hit the brakes and then keep the wheels straight it wont squeal for a little while untill i turn the wheels.... also, the passenger side doesnt have the metal spring wire thingy... and the drivers side does, but the drivers side squeal so much.... what should i do, im thinking new hardware kit
oh yeah and i lubed everything up way good with 3 different types of lube (a different kind each time i tried to stop the squealing
anyways thanks much for any help, ima go insane if i cant stop the squeal....
oh yeah and i lubed everything up way good with 3 different types of lube (a different kind each time i tried to stop the squealing
anyways thanks much for any help, ima go insane if i cant stop the squeal....
#5
Locust of the apocalypse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 1
From: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
You really need to put a nice, thick coat of "disc brake quiet" or "anti squeal" on the backs od the pads and let it set up a bit before you put the brakes back together..
Also... did you not put the "V" shaped springs back on the tops of the pads???
Also... did you not put the "V" shaped springs back on the tops of the pads???
#6
As above states, use the lube. Here's a little test. When coming to a stop, and slowing down using moderate braking power, when noise is at it's best, push the brake pedal harder and you'll find the squeeling will stop. With minimum pressure on pads, they will move ever so slightly and you'll hear that sound as the back of the pads, or shims are rubbing against the pistons(s). Give it a try.
#7
My company designed the RX7 brakes.
First, the Shims should not be reused. Buy new ones.
The metal coated inside shims rust eventually and need replaced.
The stainless steel outer shim gets deformed after time.
The purpose of the inner shim is to prevent noise (rattle/squeal).
The purpose of the outer shim is help prevent tapered wear (from front to back). It also changes the pad pressure distribution to prevent squeal. For example. We had noise on the mazda 6, modified just the shape of the shim and noise went away. So this is very important.
Using the old shims that are bent, rusted...etc will not have the same attributes that were designed into them. Yeah they're expensive but they were all put there for a reason.
Also, most of our 2nd gens were designed for old asbestos friction material and I'm not sure if the system was tested with newer compliant materials. It for sure wasn't tested with higher performance friction (Hawk, ebc..etc). Again, different Mu, different material could all equal noise.
The inner shims on my car were all rusted and crappy. This could be contributing to my mushy pedal. In the initial part of the travel I'm feeling the rusty shims compress and then the pad compress and finally firm up once that is taken up.
First, the Shims should not be reused. Buy new ones.
The metal coated inside shims rust eventually and need replaced.
The stainless steel outer shim gets deformed after time.
The purpose of the inner shim is to prevent noise (rattle/squeal).
The purpose of the outer shim is help prevent tapered wear (from front to back). It also changes the pad pressure distribution to prevent squeal. For example. We had noise on the mazda 6, modified just the shape of the shim and noise went away. So this is very important.
Using the old shims that are bent, rusted...etc will not have the same attributes that were designed into them. Yeah they're expensive but they were all put there for a reason.
Also, most of our 2nd gens were designed for old asbestos friction material and I'm not sure if the system was tested with newer compliant materials. It for sure wasn't tested with higher performance friction (Hawk, ebc..etc). Again, different Mu, different material could all equal noise.
The inner shims on my car were all rusted and crappy. This could be contributing to my mushy pedal. In the initial part of the travel I'm feeling the rusty shims compress and then the pad compress and finally firm up once that is taken up.
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