Which brakes do you guys recommend
02-17-07, 12:16 PM
#1
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Which brakes do you guys recommend
87 t2
it needs brakes really soon and i dont want to just replace them
i wanted to upgrade but every search ive done and website ive checked nothing is the same
one site has cross drilled and slotted rear and then the front look stock and are sold individually
so im just tryin to see if there are any good packages out there
it needs brakes really soon and i dont want to just replace them
i wanted to upgrade but every search ive done and website ive checked nothing is the same
one site has cross drilled and slotted rear and then the front look stock and are sold individually
so im just tryin to see if there are any good packages out there
02-17-07, 12:33 PM
#2
I use the stock blank rotors with Hawk brake pads, stainless lines and Valvoline brake fluid. The setup has been great for me and even my buddies STI brakes where fading before mine where during a couple of back road runs.
I plan on changing fluid again. I might try that Castrol stuff.
I plan on changing fluid again. I might try that Castrol stuff.
02-17-07, 01:10 PM
#3
It's only Rock and Roll
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Stock rotors and stock pads are what I use on both cars. Never had a problem stopping or slowing down during anything. If I was going to upgrade I'd do Hawk pads though..
02-17-07, 05:13 PM
#6
Originally Posted by turbo10th
Black dragon sells a cool silicon fuild i plan to try exceeds all the dots and i dont think it would go bad as fast.
-=Russ=-
02-17-07, 05:57 PM
#7
If you are replacing the rotors, you are perfectly fine with using regular rotors. I got Brembo OEM replacement rotors from Tirerack.com for a pretty good price.
I have used EBC Greenstuff and Hawk HPS pads, and I prefer the HPS's. It could be that my EBC's were old or something, but I just think the HPS's have better feel. Which brings up my next point that I have heard the EBC greenstuffs kinda die off later in life. I also got the pads form tirerack. As mentioned earlier, you can upgrade to HP+ pads if you want for auto-x or track time.
For lines, stock ones are perfectly fine if in good shape. You can also use any DOT legal ss-braided ones, but thats up to you. For brake fluid, I just used whatever they put in last time I had my brakes flushed. It works great, so I would assume that the cheap stuff is just fine for most people.
With all of this, I have simply amazing brakes. It has as nice firm pedal with very good feel and modulation. I tried to get them to fade once, and it took a hell of a lot of work to do it. Something like 5-6 repeated stops from 110-40 before I could even tell a difference, and it still wasn't bad. So unless you plan to take your car to a race track (not just auto-x, but a real track) then you are fine.
Finally, DO NOT under any circumstances get drilled rotors. Even if someone gives them to you, you should sell them on e-bay and get something else. Even high-quality well designed rotors (for example Brembo's on a Ferrari) will crack over time. The hole introduces a structural weak point where fatigue cracks can and will start with heavy use, possibly leading to severe cracking of the rotor.
I have used EBC Greenstuff and Hawk HPS pads, and I prefer the HPS's. It could be that my EBC's were old or something, but I just think the HPS's have better feel. Which brings up my next point that I have heard the EBC greenstuffs kinda die off later in life. I also got the pads form tirerack. As mentioned earlier, you can upgrade to HP+ pads if you want for auto-x or track time.
For lines, stock ones are perfectly fine if in good shape. You can also use any DOT legal ss-braided ones, but thats up to you. For brake fluid, I just used whatever they put in last time I had my brakes flushed. It works great, so I would assume that the cheap stuff is just fine for most people.
With all of this, I have simply amazing brakes. It has as nice firm pedal with very good feel and modulation. I tried to get them to fade once, and it took a hell of a lot of work to do it. Something like 5-6 repeated stops from 110-40 before I could even tell a difference, and it still wasn't bad. So unless you plan to take your car to a race track (not just auto-x, but a real track) then you are fine.
Finally, DO NOT under any circumstances get drilled rotors. Even if someone gives them to you, you should sell them on e-bay and get something else. Even high-quality well designed rotors (for example Brembo's on a Ferrari) will crack over time. The hole introduces a structural weak point where fatigue cracks can and will start with heavy use, possibly leading to severe cracking of the rotor.
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02-17-07, 09:59 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Sideways7
If you are replacing the rotors, you are perfectly fine with using regular rotors. I got Brembo OEM replacement rotors from Tirerack.com for a pretty good price.
I have used EBC Greenstuff and Hawk HPS pads, and I prefer the HPS's. It could be that my EBC's were old or something, but I just think the HPS's have better feel. Which brings up my next point that I have heard the EBC greenstuffs kinda die off later in life. I also got the pads form tirerack. As mentioned earlier, you can upgrade to HP+ pads if you want for auto-x or track time.
For lines, stock ones are perfectly fine if in good shape. You can also use any DOT legal ss-braided ones, but thats up to you. For brake fluid, I just used whatever they put in last time I had my brakes flushed. It works great, so I would assume that the cheap stuff is just fine for most people.
With all of this, I have simply amazing brakes. It has as nice firm pedal with very good feel and modulation. I tried to get them to fade once, and it took a hell of a lot of work to do it. Something like 5-6 repeated stops from 110-40 before I could even tell a difference, and it still wasn't bad. So unless you plan to take your car to a race track (not just auto-x, but a real track) then you are fine.
Finally, DO NOT under any circumstances get drilled rotors. Even if someone gives them to you, you should sell them on e-bay and get something else. Even high-quality well designed rotors (for example Brembo's on a Ferrari) will crack over time. The hole introduces a structural weak point where fatigue cracks can and will start with heavy use, possibly leading to severe cracking of the rotor.
I have used EBC Greenstuff and Hawk HPS pads, and I prefer the HPS's. It could be that my EBC's were old or something, but I just think the HPS's have better feel. Which brings up my next point that I have heard the EBC greenstuffs kinda die off later in life. I also got the pads form tirerack. As mentioned earlier, you can upgrade to HP+ pads if you want for auto-x or track time.
For lines, stock ones are perfectly fine if in good shape. You can also use any DOT legal ss-braided ones, but thats up to you. For brake fluid, I just used whatever they put in last time I had my brakes flushed. It works great, so I would assume that the cheap stuff is just fine for most people.
With all of this, I have simply amazing brakes. It has as nice firm pedal with very good feel and modulation. I tried to get them to fade once, and it took a hell of a lot of work to do it. Something like 5-6 repeated stops from 110-40 before I could even tell a difference, and it still wasn't bad. So unless you plan to take your car to a race track (not just auto-x, but a real track) then you are fine.
Finally, DO NOT under any circumstances get drilled rotors. Even if someone gives them to you, you should sell them on e-bay and get something else. Even high-quality well designed rotors (for example Brembo's on a Ferrari) will crack over time. The hole introduces a structural weak point where fatigue cracks can and will start with heavy use, possibly leading to severe cracking of the rotor.
Thats absolutely right. EBC greens are just not up to the task of hard braking from track/hard street use. Greens get loose way to quickly. HPS are superior pads in every way except for dusting, which drives me absolutely nuts when all I need is a pad to drive every day.
02-18-07, 10:58 AM
#11
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i run stock rotors front and rear...braided ss lines and hawk hp+ on my DD...stops fantastic...the hawks squeak a lil bit sometimes and dust a lot so you gotta clean your wheels more often but they work awesome.
02-19-07, 07:44 AM
#13
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
For daily I'd recommend slotted (not drilled) rotors if you can afford them and EBC Greens (low dust, good all-around daily pad). Swap em out on the weekends for the Hawk HP+ track pads.
Correct me if I'm wrong (definitely not a brake expert) but aren't slotted rotors just good for additional cooling? To me it just seems like they'd reduce the braking area that the pads can touch.
02-19-07, 08:27 AM
#14
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Area doesn't matter
If you knew anything about engineering you would be aware that Area doesn't come into the friction equation
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
Bigger brakes are better because they apply the friction force further away from the centre of rotation. Hence one of Newton's laws Torque = Force X distance. Increasing the distance increases the braking torque. hence better brakes.
I'm re-newing my brakes soon, and oem discs with medium/high friction pads are the way to go. Also steel lines help greatly. With the oem items for the turbo 2 being vented already, drilled and slotted are the biggest waste of effort!
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
Bigger brakes are better because they apply the friction force further away from the centre of rotation. Hence one of Newton's laws Torque = Force X distance. Increasing the distance increases the braking torque. hence better brakes.
I'm re-newing my brakes soon, and oem discs with medium/high friction pads are the way to go. Also steel lines help greatly. With the oem items for the turbo 2 being vented already, drilled and slotted are the biggest waste of effort!
02-19-07, 08:57 AM
#15
The Cause of Death
I run AXXIS ceramic/kevlar pads on my RX7. I am very happy with them, although they are a bit dusty. My wheels are gunmetal/black though, so it doesn't really make much of a difference to me...
James
James
02-19-07, 09:06 AM
#16
Originally Posted by tomoaac
If you knew anything about engineering you would be aware that Area doesn't come into the friction equation
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
However, I'll still stick with my original question. What's the point of slotted rotors on a daily driver?
02-19-07, 09:16 AM
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Buy solid discs
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
However, I'll still stick with my original question. What's the point of slotted rotors on a daily driver?
The vented discs on RX7's are amazing. Not many cars have ever been fitted with such an impressive braking system.
IF slotted and or drilled were the way to go on a daily driver then I think the boffs at Mazda would have thought about it and they would be standard.
02-19-07, 09:26 AM
#18
Originally Posted by tomoaac
No point! waste of money, and in the real world present more problems than solutions on a daily driver.
The vented discs on RX7's are amazing. Not many cars have ever been fitted with such an impressive braking system.
IF slotted and or drilled were the way to go on a daily driver then I think the boffs at Mazda would have thought about it and they would be standard.
The vented discs on RX7's are amazing. Not many cars have ever been fitted with such an impressive braking system.
IF slotted and or drilled were the way to go on a daily driver then I think the boffs at Mazda would have thought about it and they would be standard.
I've always thought that the stock FC braking system was more than adequate for 99% of the people that drive FC's, or at least the daily drivers. I'd like to stress "stock" though. By that I mean a refurbished system that doesn't have 20 year old worn out parts.
With a stopping distance of 120 feet, the stock system outperforms cars that cost 20x what the FC does with the NSX being an example (depending on year).
02-19-07, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
What's the point of slotted rotors on a daily driver?
Originally Posted by tomoaac
If you knew anything about engineering you would be aware that Area doesn't come into the friction equation
Originally Posted by tomoaac
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
Originally Posted by tomoaac
With the oem items for the turbo 2 being vented already, drilled and slotted are the biggest waste of effort!
02-19-07, 11:17 AM
#20
Originally Posted by tomoaac
If you knew anything about engineering you would be aware that Area doesn't come into the friction equation
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
Bigger brakes are better because they apply the friction force further away from the centre of rotation. Hence one of Newton's laws Torque = Force X distance. Increasing the distance increases the braking torque. hence better brakes.
I'm re-newing my brakes soon, and oem discs with medium/high friction pads are the way to go. Also steel lines help greatly. With the oem items for the turbo 2 being vented already, drilled and slotted are the biggest waste of effort!
'Friction force = Co-effiencent of Friction x Normal force', (F=ľN)
Where the co-effiencent is based on the brake pad matterial and the normal force is the force that squeezes the pads onto the disc.
Therefore slotted or drilled brakes don't effect the braking capability in anyway, they mearly help cooling.
Bigger brakes are better because they apply the friction force further away from the centre of rotation. Hence one of Newton's laws Torque = Force X distance. Increasing the distance increases the braking torque. hence better brakes.
I'm re-newing my brakes soon, and oem discs with medium/high friction pads are the way to go. Also steel lines help greatly. With the oem items for the turbo 2 being vented already, drilled and slotted are the biggest waste of effort!
Except for the fact that they prevent pad glazing. Look into it.
02-19-07, 06:00 PM
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[And if you knew anything about engineering, you would be aware that Area does have some effect on the stopping capability of a vehicle. Try making yourself a set of custom brake pads with an area of 1 square millimeter and see how well your car stops.
sorry my Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering not good enough for you!
1 mm square Pads would do as awesome job of stopping the cars as they plough through the disc!
The reason discs are increased in size is to reduce the pressure on pad and disc, therefore increase life!!
sorry my Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering not good enough for you!
1 mm square Pads would do as awesome job of stopping the cars as they plough through the disc!
The reason discs are increased in size is to reduce the pressure on pad and disc, therefore increase life!!
02-19-07, 07:25 PM
#22
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I replaced my stock discs with the Mazdatrix ones. They needed to be replaced, and I like the Mazdatrix ones. Now I just have to remove the rusted brake lines that won't come off with the SS ones...
02-19-07, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tomoaac
sorry my Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering not good enough for you!
Last edited by Evil Aviator; 02-19-07 at 11:32 PM.
