yachtclb

Ok I have a 1988 RX-7 Convertible. I am installing brakes and rotors today. This is my first brake job. If anyone had any help or suggestions please give them. Is there any plac eI can go for help? THANKS

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If you get into a bind, just post and you'll get some help.
Pretty straight forward. Probably have trouble removing the old rotors, so if you can't get the screws out, just drill them out. They aren't needed anyway if you destroy them. Put lug nuts on to protect the studs, and hit the flat spot all around the studs to break the rust away. Don't forget, the pistons in the rear calipers SCREW in, they do not get pushed in as do the fronts.

yachtclb

ok thanks now I have the brakes off, but when i am replacing the pads i don't understand how they go back in. There is a V spring or wire that popped out help!!!!!!

yachtclb

ok thanks now I have the brakes off, but when i am replacing the pads i don't understand how they go back in. There is a V spring or wire that popped out help!!!!!!
and of course i have no wrench big enough to take the bolt off to remove the rotor.

spot_skater

a wrench big enough to remove the rotor?
i've yet to do a brake job on my 7, but i've done a bunch of brake jobs on other cars
isn't the caliper bolted into the control arm and isn't that what keeps the rotor in place? as well as the lugs...

if you can't remove the bolts on the caliper just use a large piece of piping and put it over the wrench, you'll get twice the torque, if not more

GregSL-SE

Why not look @ your FSM...it has pictures and everything.

yachtclb

what is my fsm

Syonyk

Factory Service Manual. A "must-download" item for anyone working on their car.

Combine that with the Haynes manual, and you can usually puzzle through most things.

-=Russ=-

yachtclb

thanks. Are the front any harder or easier than the rear?

Syonyk

If you have a big C-Clamp & 1-piston calipers on the front, they're trivial to do. The rears weren't much worse, but turning the piston in was a pain in the rear.

It took me a few hours to do the pads around, but I wasn't in a hurry and it was my first time doing brake pads. I could probably do them all in half an hour to an hour now if I really needed to.

-=Russ=-

GregSL-SE

Just take your time, use brake cleaner, use disc brake quiet, read the manuals- you'll do fine. One thing to remember... after you install the new pads- You have to seat them by making a series of stops. From 5-10mph, then 15-20mph, then 30-35 mph, let the pads cool a little in between, and you're good to go. Greg C.

Syonyk

Hm. I think I went for the more extreme version of bedding the pads in. 4x 60->45mph to pre-heat the pads & rotors, then 8-10 60->10s, never fully stopping. Of course, my pads faded after the 4th one really badly, so I stopped abusing them. Then drive for a while to let them cool fully. Repeat if desired.

I wouldn't suggest fully stopping while bedding the pads in. It can transfer material from the pads to the rotors, and generally make for a not-fun time (rough braking, noise, etc).

Also, if the stock anti-squeal shims (thin metal pieces on the back of the pads) are toast (mine were badly rusted), just use anti-squeal compound from any auto parts store. It makes for a sticky mess, but works nicely. It goes on the BACK of the pads, not the friction surface.

-=Russ=-