brake swap AKA horror!
08-08-05 | 10:51 AM
#76
Originally Posted by johnnyg
I really wouldn't worry about any of that just yet. Drive it normally for a few days or so and check it again. If it's still pulling to one side, then that's probably something you'd want to look into.
Did you rebuild (or get rebuilt) calipers on all 4 corners?
Did you rebuild (or get rebuilt) calipers on all 4 corners?
i purchased all 4 rebuilt TII calipers, and the rotors are new Mazda OEM.
for pads i'm using EBC Greenstuff in the front, and just Mazda OEM in the rear.
i have heard that the TII/GXL/Vert master cylinder and brake booster are larger than the base model coupe (my car), but it's hard to find for sure an answer on that...
08-08-05 | 12:25 PM
#77
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by coldfire
- pedal feels "long" and a little mushy
- car pulls a little to one side under FULL braking
- i can't lock up the tires under FULL braking; granted the pads are rotors are still fresh and i have pretty sticky tires
i have already fully bleed the system 2 times and i am pretty sure all the air is out. but i will do it one more time to see if that will make a difference.
i am still using the N/A master cylinder, does anyone know if the TII master cylinder will have better pedal feel at all with the TII brakes?
- car pulls a little to one side under FULL braking
- i can't lock up the tires under FULL braking; granted the pads are rotors are still fresh and i have pretty sticky tires
i have already fully bleed the system 2 times and i am pretty sure all the air is out. but i will do it one more time to see if that will make a difference.
i am still using the N/A master cylinder, does anyone know if the TII master cylinder will have better pedal feel at all with the TII brakes?
Are you certain that you're bleeding the system correctly? You definately should be able to lock up the tires with all new components.
08-08-05 | 12:53 PM
#78
Originally Posted by Snrub
Sorry to hear about all of the stripped threads. You have to be very carefull when you screw in the lines.
Are you certain that you're bleeding the system correctly? You definately should be able to lock up the tires with all new components.
Are you certain that you're bleeding the system correctly? You definately should be able to lock up the tires with all new components.
the OEM Mazda line worked fine.
i bleed as follows:
- order: Rpassenger, Rdriver, Fpassenger, Fdriver
- i get someone to first pump the pedal about 6 times, then they hold it down and i release the fluid with the bleeder. i then close the bleeder and they release and start pumping again. i repeat about 6-8 times
- always making sure MC is full
so you are saying i should be able to lock up the brakes, even on dry road with good tires? like i said, the car does stop really good, the pedal just feels long.
08-08-05 | 01:17 PM
#79
Your bleeding method does sound correct, but be advised:
Cars equipped with 4 piston Fronts have larger rear calipers and two bleeding valves per caliper. There is a certain sequence that you have to use in order to bleed the rear brakes properly. If you used only one of the nipples on the rear calipers - chances are that you have air in the rear brakes.
Cars equipped with 4 piston Fronts have larger rear calipers and two bleeding valves per caliper. There is a certain sequence that you have to use in order to bleed the rear brakes properly. If you used only one of the nipples on the rear calipers - chances are that you have air in the rear brakes.
08-08-05 | 01:42 PM
#80
Originally Posted by Nick86
Your bleeding method does sound correct, but be advised:
Cars equipped with 4 piston Fronts have larger rear calipers and two bleeding valves per caliper. There is a certain sequence that you have to use in order to bleed the rear brakes properly. If you used only one of the nipples on the rear calipers - chances are that you have air in the rear brakes.
Cars equipped with 4 piston Fronts have larger rear calipers and two bleeding valves per caliper. There is a certain sequence that you have to use in order to bleed the rear brakes properly. If you used only one of the nipples on the rear calipers - chances are that you have air in the rear brakes.
i'm going to search and see if there is a proper method, unless someone wants to tell me here
08-08-05 | 01:57 PM
#81
08-08-05 | 02:06 PM
#82
lol, well if i had a 10-ton puller lying around i'm sure i would try to use it!
it's wierd though, after all that banging on the rear rotors, it only took one hit with a hammer from the FRONT for the rotor to get it off. so for anyone trying to get stubborn rotors off, hit the FRONT of the disc first (the actual disc part, not the "hat")...
it's wierd though, after all that banging on the rear rotors, it only took one hit with a hammer from the FRONT for the rotor to get it off. so for anyone trying to get stubborn rotors off, hit the FRONT of the disc first (the actual disc part, not the "hat")...
08-08-05 | 07:52 PM
#83
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Nick86
Cars equipped with 4 piston Fronts have larger rear calipers and two bleeding valves per caliper. There is a certain sequence that you have to use in order to bleed the rear brakes properly. If you used only one of the nipples on the rear calipers - chances are that you have air in the rear brakes.
08-08-05 | 11:21 PM
#84
Originally Posted by Snrub
At the risk of sounding stupid, I was unaware of that. Where abouts is the second bleeder?!?
i believe only the vented rear disc calipers have the 2 bleeders...
anyways, from what i have found, you bleed the bottom valve first when you have dry calipers, and then the top.
otherwise if the system is already filled, then just bleed using the top.
08-09-05 | 12:21 AM
#86
Originally Posted by coldfire
they are like 90 degrees apart from each other.
i believe only the vented rear disc calipers have the 2 bleeders...
anyways, from what i have found, you bleed the bottom valve first when you have dry calipers, and then the top.
otherwise if the system is already filled, then just bleed using the top.
i believe only the vented rear disc calipers have the 2 bleeders...
anyways, from what i have found, you bleed the bottom valve first when you have dry calipers, and then the top.
otherwise if the system is already filled, then just bleed using the top.
nope my base has 2 bleeders per caliper, broke 2 off one on each once, but the other 2 were fine and they broke shut
08-09-05 | 12:25 AM
#87
Originally Posted by Nismo Convert86
nope my base has 2 bleeders per caliper, broke 2 off one on each once, but the other 2 were fine and they broke shut
silly me, i had the damn calipers sitting in my garage also!
08-09-05 | 09:27 AM
#88
i bled the brakes again, and it's starting to feel much better.
the pedal is still a bit long though, but it does bite very good once it is pushed enough.
i'm also starting to hear the fronts, which don't have any backing plates, squeal.
the pedal is still a bit long though, but it does bite very good once it is pushed enough.
i'm also starting to hear the fronts, which don't have any backing plates, squeal.
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