Brake rotors
03-07-05, 11:03 AM
#1
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Brake rotors
I just had my rotors turned about 6k ago and now they are warping again. Is this a problem with something in the brake system or are the rotors just totally shot?
I was thinking of putting on a set of powerslot rotors and don't want to have to replace them at the end of the summer. I'm thinking that if it's just a heat issue the extra ventilation will help with the life of the rotors in the long run.
P.S. I'm not hard on the brakes at all...but the problem is definitly getting worse. What do you think??
Thanks,
Brad
I was thinking of putting on a set of powerslot rotors and don't want to have to replace them at the end of the summer. I'm thinking that if it's just a heat issue the extra ventilation will help with the life of the rotors in the long run.
P.S. I'm not hard on the brakes at all...but the problem is definitly getting worse. What do you think??
Thanks,
Brad
03-07-05, 12:16 PM
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I have heard of the parking break warping the rotors. Maybe after a lot of driving/breaking and then having the parking break put on for a long period of time could slowly but surely warp them more and more. Also, a lot of driving/breaking and then going through water puddles big enough to splash on your rotors can cause it from the one extreme temp to the other.
Just some thoughts.
Just some thoughts.
03-07-05, 12:33 PM
#4
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are you getting the brake rotors from mail order/online???
If so they will need to be turned before mounting. Most of the time shipping the likes of UPS, will often lead to the rotors being dropped a couple of times, leading to out of round rotors.
Also, most people that are hard on brakes say they are not... In fact most people that say they are not hard on brakes are the worst ones out there. So you may wish to modify your braking patterns.
<edit> In addition. Slotted or drilled rotors will not really give you any better rotor wear, and may infact lower the braking capability as you are removing surface that would normally help brake and disipate heat. The only big advantage to slotted or drilled rotors is that brake pads are much less likely to glase... something that you didn't mention to be a problem.
If so they will need to be turned before mounting. Most of the time shipping the likes of UPS, will often lead to the rotors being dropped a couple of times, leading to out of round rotors.
Also, most people that are hard on brakes say they are not... In fact most people that say they are not hard on brakes are the worst ones out there. So you may wish to modify your braking patterns.
<edit> In addition. Slotted or drilled rotors will not really give you any better rotor wear, and may infact lower the braking capability as you are removing surface that would normally help brake and disipate heat. The only big advantage to slotted or drilled rotors is that brake pads are much less likely to glase... something that you didn't mention to be a problem.
Last edited by Icemark; 03-07-05 at 01:52 PM.
03-07-05, 12:40 PM
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Rotors are totally shot........
The heat that causes the rotors to warp is somewhat similar to the annealing process used in metal fabrication.. When the rotors get to hot, and cool at uneven rates (which there is almost no way to prevent outside of a factory) the metal molecules in the rotrs become alligned in different ways, as the rotors are repeately heated, this causes the rotors to warp..
When you cut the rotor, you take the highspots off the rotor and thus make it a flat surface again. The problem is, that the root of the problem is still there, the metal has been altered from its original alignment.. and as you continue to heat and cool the rotors, they will warp again.
Its not uncommon for rotors to warp within 10K of being cut, in fact, its VERY common.
think of it like planing a warped board to straighten it.. you take material of the middle on one sode and the ends on the other to get a flat board, but if you look at the grain pattern, yuou get lines on the unplaned areas and loops ans swirls on the areas where material was taken off.. if the board gets wet again, its goint to warp again....
The heat that causes the rotors to warp is somewhat similar to the annealing process used in metal fabrication.. When the rotors get to hot, and cool at uneven rates (which there is almost no way to prevent outside of a factory) the metal molecules in the rotrs become alligned in different ways, as the rotors are repeately heated, this causes the rotors to warp..
When you cut the rotor, you take the highspots off the rotor and thus make it a flat surface again. The problem is, that the root of the problem is still there, the metal has been altered from its original alignment.. and as you continue to heat and cool the rotors, they will warp again.
Its not uncommon for rotors to warp within 10K of being cut, in fact, its VERY common.
think of it like planing a warped board to straighten it.. you take material of the middle on one sode and the ends on the other to get a flat board, but if you look at the grain pattern, yuou get lines on the unplaned areas and loops ans swirls on the areas where material was taken off.. if the board gets wet again, its goint to warp again....
03-07-05, 04:56 PM
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"When you cut the rotor, you take the highspots off the rotor and thus make it a flat surface again. The problem is, that the root of the problem is still there, the metal has been altered from its original alignment.. and as you continue to heat and cool the rotors, they will warp again.
Its not uncommon for rotors to warp within 10K of being cut, in fact, its VERY common."
Thank you, that was exactly the answer ^^^I was looking for. I was hoping that it would not be a problem with the calipers...like maybe a seized piston causing uneven brake wear. When I get the brakes off I'll double check just to make sure.
"Also, most people that are hard on brakes say they are not... In fact most people that say they are not hard on brakes are the worst ones out there. So you may wish to modify your braking patterns."
^^^Not to be defensive of my driving style or anything...but I use proper gear selection, engine speed, and a good view of the road ahead when slowing my car down. I do alot of city driving and stop and go frustrates me. I like to drive smooth so I try to brake as little as possible, and when I do I NEVER pound on the pedal.
One final question...correct me if I'm wrong, but slotted rotors were designed for race cars to dissipate heat faster so their pads don't glaze, and so you don't boil your brake fluid and get pedal fade. Now for racing purposes this will make a noticeable difference, my question is, will there be any noticeable difference in temps for street use? and if so, is it worth the price for slotted rotors on the street?
Thanks again for all your help,
Brad
Its not uncommon for rotors to warp within 10K of being cut, in fact, its VERY common."
Thank you, that was exactly the answer ^^^I was looking for. I was hoping that it would not be a problem with the calipers...like maybe a seized piston causing uneven brake wear. When I get the brakes off I'll double check just to make sure.
"Also, most people that are hard on brakes say they are not... In fact most people that say they are not hard on brakes are the worst ones out there. So you may wish to modify your braking patterns."
^^^Not to be defensive of my driving style or anything...but I use proper gear selection, engine speed, and a good view of the road ahead when slowing my car down. I do alot of city driving and stop and go frustrates me. I like to drive smooth so I try to brake as little as possible, and when I do I NEVER pound on the pedal.
One final question...correct me if I'm wrong, but slotted rotors were designed for race cars to dissipate heat faster so their pads don't glaze, and so you don't boil your brake fluid and get pedal fade. Now for racing purposes this will make a noticeable difference, my question is, will there be any noticeable difference in temps for street use? and if so, is it worth the price for slotted rotors on the street?
Thanks again for all your help,
Brad
03-07-05, 05:45 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Icemark
are you getting the brake rotors from mail order/online???
If so they will need to be turned before mounting. Most of the time shipping the likes of UPS, will often lead to the rotors being dropped a couple of times, leading to out of round rotors.
If so they will need to be turned before mounting. Most of the time shipping the likes of UPS, will often lead to the rotors being dropped a couple of times, leading to out of round rotors.
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03-07-05, 06:44 PM
#9
Originally Posted by B-ROB
One final question...correct me if I'm wrong, but slotted rotors were designed for race cars to dissipate heat faster so their pads don't glaze, and so you don't boil your brake fluid and get pedal fade. Now for racing purposes this will make a noticeable difference, my question is, will there be any noticeable difference in temps for street use? and if so, is it worth the price for slotted rotors on the street?
Slotted rotors keeps the pad surface clean and glaze-free for consistent performance.
-Max
03-07-05, 07:35 PM
#10
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That's the reason I shied away from cross drilled and slotted rotors. It just didn't seem worth the extra expense.
That's why I went, or will go, with OEM style rotors. I'd spend your money on better brake pads, like the Hawk HPS, fresh fluid (I'm going with Motul DOT 5.1), and a new master cylinder.
That's why I went, or will go, with OEM style rotors. I'd spend your money on better brake pads, like the Hawk HPS, fresh fluid (I'm going with Motul DOT 5.1), and a new master cylinder.
03-07-05, 07:47 PM
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MAX: Thanks for the clarification...much appreciated.
Where should I go to get a set of OEM rotors...is the local auto value parts okay, or is there a better place to order off of the internet? (price wise)
Where should I go to get a set of OEM rotors...is the local auto value parts okay, or is there a better place to order off of the internet? (price wise)
03-07-05, 10:41 PM
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I just recently bought a set of rotors from auto value at a decent price they look pretty good but i haven't gotten to try them out yet as the car is still apart so if your willing to wait a week or two i'll be able to give you my first impressions 
by the way where abouts in calgary do you live? and what colour is your car?
here is a helpful link on warped rotors just in case:
http://www.coolrotor.com/whitepapers...otors_myth.htm
by the way where abouts in calgary do you live? and what colour is your car?
here is a helpful link on warped rotors just in case:
http://www.coolrotor.com/whitepapers...otors_myth.htm
Last edited by Schnide; 03-07-05 at 10:44 PM.
03-08-05, 12:10 AM
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just one question.... do u hold the brake pedal after u come to a stop at a redlight?
after u come to a stop, your brakes are really hot from braking and holding the brake pedal unneccessarily hard will put force on the hot/soft rotor which may cause it to warp.
after u come to a stop, your brakes are really hot from braking and holding the brake pedal unneccessarily hard will put force on the hot/soft rotor which may cause it to warp.
03-08-05, 12:46 AM
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SCHNIDE: I have no problems waiting 2 weeks...plan was to tear them apart in april. I live in the SE in Sundance. I drive a Red '87 GXL with no badges (still working on those)
OREGANO: I don't usually hold my brake...as soon as I've stopped I usually let off the pedal. Handbrake on really steep inclines or declines.
OREGANO: I don't usually hold my brake...as soon as I've stopped I usually let off the pedal. Handbrake on really steep inclines or declines.
03-08-05, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cluosborne
That's the reason I shied away from cross drilled and slotted rotors. It just didn't seem worth the extra expense.
That's why I went, or will go, with OEM style rotors. I'd spend your money on better brake pads, like the Hawk HPS, fresh fluid (I'm going with Motul DOT 5.1), and a new master cylinder.
That's why I went, or will go, with OEM style rotors. I'd spend your money on better brake pads, like the Hawk HPS, fresh fluid (I'm going with Motul DOT 5.1), and a new master cylinder.
Last edited by RXSevenSymphonies; 03-08-05 at 01:29 AM.
03-08-05, 10:39 PM
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yeah i am planning on going to the meet. i also live in sundance i drive a practically bare bones stock silver 88 na i'm pretty sure i've seen your car before nice to know another fc in the area
03-09-05, 09:28 AM
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yeah i am in suncastle. My car has been down for a while now, i had to replace the master cylinder with a autovalue reman one doesn't leak like my last one did
, and both rear calipers i was thinking of replacing the rubber flexable brake lines that go to the calipers but they are in great shape suprisingly for a 17 year old car and as you know i had to replace all four rotors previous owner left the car outside for a long time (he lives quite close by to me so you might have seen the car before i bought it) and they rusted quite badle i tried to machine the rotors but by the time i removed most of the rust they where way beyond spec (damn corrosion) and my mechancal fan clutch had gone bad and i'm having troube finding a new one whew fixing alot of things at once
and i'm also doint that wiper relay fix i'm just waiting for the part to come in from digikey should be in thurs so pretty much as soon as i can get my hands on a fan clutch the car is ready to go back on the roads
, and both rear calipers i was thinking of replacing the rubber flexable brake lines that go to the calipers but they are in great shape suprisingly for a 17 year old car and as you know i had to replace all four rotors previous owner left the car outside for a long time (he lives quite close by to me so you might have seen the car before i bought it) and they rusted quite badle i tried to machine the rotors but by the time i removed most of the rust they where way beyond spec (damn corrosion) and my mechancal fan clutch had gone bad and i'm having troube finding a new one whew fixing alot of things at onceand i'm also doint that wiper relay fix i'm just waiting for the part to come in from digikey should be in thurs so pretty much as soon as i can get my hands on a fan clutch the car is ready to go back on the roads
03-09-05, 10:40 AM
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right on...that car looked pretty clean whenever I saw it. I just finished rebuilding by clutch master and slave, currently doin a little interior work (trying to figure out what I should put under my headunit). Next project is going to be a full set of rotors, and might need to replace or rebuild my front calipers.
I've been trying to look at different exhaust setups to replace the custom one the previous owner put on the car...the welds aren't looking so hot. I'll probably show it off at the meet in may and see what people suggest for a replacement.
If you ever need any help with anything, just let me know. It's nice to see another enthousiast in sundance.
I've been trying to look at different exhaust setups to replace the custom one the previous owner put on the car...the welds aren't looking so hot. I'll probably show it off at the meet in may and see what people suggest for a replacement.
If you ever need any help with anything, just let me know. It's nice to see another enthousiast in sundance.
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