bp or Sp my TII
#26
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i thought that to... but i still think im goin to go with a street port i would be nice to have it an if i was wanting to do a bp i could always tear it down an use 3mm seals insted of the rotory avation super seals 2mm so for now i think ill go with the street port an see how i like it an then if i want more bridge port later down the road
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Don't get me wrong, I'm not advising you DO BP it. I'm just saying that neither a street or bridge should get that kind of highway mileage.....city, thats another story.
I've had both and my current motor is getting a medium streetport. Trying a different route yet again
I've had both and my current motor is getting a medium streetport. Trying a different route yet again
#29
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It is pointless to bridgeport the engine unless you want to make more then 400 wheel HP. In my opinion, all the turbos that are capable of making big numbers are far too laggy without a bridgeport. The trade off is the fact that mileage at low RPMs absolutely sucks (less then 10 MPG in the city...), the car idles poorly, and it's much more difficult to tune. Personally I like the idle and I've accepted the mileage hit but if you don't have a valid reason to bridgeport, then don't do it just because it's "cool".
To make 400HP, you could get away with stock ports easily. Stock ports and a GT35R will make that kind of power with very little lag.
yea true but still i dont know i might just go with a streetport but i want something more that 340hp not on a stop motor cause im not goin to rebuld it agian for over boosting an i know the way i drive that wouldnt last a month before i would have gto rebuild when i think about it bo is the betterway to go if i was juust making a track car im making a daily drvin car so street port would probly go better
Again, it's hard to understand but I think you are trying to say that if you don't rebuild the engine you will blow it? As long as the engine is in good shape and it's tuned properly running more boost won't be an issue. At sub 400HP levels, the 13B is very reliable.
**** welli think im just going to do a street port then....lol i know the way i drive if i had that much power i would **** it up some how hahaha... i would either blow a side seal or a apex seal lol... so i think that street port would be a better way for my driving habits
The more you post, the more random your statements become. It may be the time to stop throwing around terms and simply sit back and read this forum for a while. A lot of knowledge goes by and it will give you a good starting point so you can make intelligent decisions.
i thought that to... but i still think im goin to go with a street port i would be nice to have it an if i was wanting to do a bp i could always tear it down an use 3mm seals insted of the rotory avation super seals 2mm so for now i think ill go with the street port an see how i like it an then if i want more bridge port later down the road
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There are so many things that account for gas mileage. To say there is something wrong with my "setup" is hillarious. I guess 245/40/17, 275/40/17, turbo injectors, and the gp-sports body kit (Which probably adds more drag) is wrong huh?
#31
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Yes, almost certainly. Unless you are driving around at WOT, then those mileage numbers are very, very low. The turbo injectors certainly won't help and are probably the biggest part of the problem. It's very unlikely that your NA will need more fuel then the stock 460CCs provide, and even if it does you will need some kind of computer (either standalone or piggyback) to turn the TII injectors down for part throttle driving. Mileage as low as yours almost always indicates a problem somewhere.
#33
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And the few people I know with renesis cars get better then 20mpg on the highway. So mine was close, but not quite.
And as I said city mileage is another story. Idling a BP and streetport side by side with a gallon of gas in each tank, the SP will run far longer. Just a function of the port timing/duration mainly.
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im just goin to do a street port with a bigger turbo... an im not throwing random things out to people i just saying that i could do this or i dont wanna do this....an asking people for there thoughts... an being a mile above sea level is alot differnt from cali or places at sea level cars tend to run a little leaner up here than at sea level
Last edited by gabs88gxl; 12-07-07 at 07:39 PM.
#41
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im just goin to do a street port with a bigger turbo... an im not throwing random things out to people i just saying that i could do this or i dont wanna do this....an asking people for there thoughts... an being a mile above sea level is alot differnt from cali or places at sea level cars tend to run a little leaner up here than at sea level
Even the stock ECU has an atmospheric pressure sensor.
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hahahha
why whats wrong with them
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 12-08-07 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Merge three posts
#46
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ok well i know it runs an works to run a street ported motor with no emissions an a stock turbo on a stock ecu... i know a few people an a car ive worked on that have it done.... timing i can adjust with the crank angle sensor by advancing or retarding it to a timing light... at the moment im just goin to run the stock ecu with my safc an a streetported motor sence i know it can be done...then later i will work my way up to upgrading an doing a stand alone... im not a millionare i cant aford this all at once so im goin to build up to it....
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yea i know but like i said im goin to work my way up to a standalone an i wanna try to do a msd or some sort of ignition system i dont know any other systems... whats a good system
#49
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There are no aftermarket ignition systems that can retard your timing for less money then a standalone. At the very basics of it, a single CDI box on the leading coil with the accessories to make it retard will run $600 or so and be a complete waste of money since you then need to do the exact same thing to the trailing with either a dual channel box (very expensive) or two single channel boxes. By the time you've hacked something together that is barely functional you would have spend more then buying an entry level standalone (at around $800) and probably gone through an engine making it work.
For the most part, you cannot "adjust the CAS" to change the timing. You can bump it back a few degrees but that's about the limit. Keep in mind that the ECU uses the CAS to fire the injectors as well.
A streetport on the stock turbo and ECU will be fine with a piggyback. Once you start upgrading turbos, there is no choice in the matter of going to a standalone. You'll spend far more money on piggybacks and rebuilding engines then just doing it right.
For the most part, you cannot "adjust the CAS" to change the timing. You can bump it back a few degrees but that's about the limit. Keep in mind that the ECU uses the CAS to fire the injectors as well.
A streetport on the stock turbo and ECU will be fine with a piggyback. Once you start upgrading turbos, there is no choice in the matter of going to a standalone. You'll spend far more money on piggybacks and rebuilding engines then just doing it right.
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