spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well TPS is ajusted correctly. But there is still very little power... HAILERS: it pulls pretty smooth when im easy on it. no jump at 3800 or 4200. but when i get on it, i can hear the turbo spool but it just doesnt pull till its done studdering at about 5100 then it pulls like it should. WTF!

HAILERS

Oh! Darn. I just noticed or payed attention to what you've done to the car. Replaced vacuum lines. Did you replace the one b/t the pressure/boost sensor and the intake manifold????? If you did, beware there is supposed to be a orifice that some people call a *PILL* about a inch or INSIDE the line about a inch or two from the end of the vacuum lline. If you do not have one, what will happen is you will get SPIKES to the boost/pressure sensor that will cause BUCKING. See that you have one in the line. Its just thing that looks like a tic-tac with a small hole in the center.

On the setting of the tps. The car MUST be full warm/hot before setting or checking the tps. No good to check the tps setting with a cool or cold engine. Readings will be wrong due to the thermowax device messing with the throttle shaft.

Should be 1K ohms at closed throttle with the engine off and the tps connector being checked out.

If using the lights, get the car full hot. Shut down, turn the key to on, put the light assy in the green check connector. Basically if you turn the adjustment screw fully anticlockwise til the screw almost falls out, then turn clockwise until one light comes on, then gingerly more clockwise until both are on. Then gingerly anti-clockwise until only the one light is on. Done. There are better explanations out there but this method works fine.

When you are through, get your digital meter out. Put the negative on a good ground then with the TPS CONNECTOR fully connected up, shove your positive lead in the back of the GREEN/RED wire. The reading with the car fully hot, should be one volt. If its 0.95 or 1.05volts thats just fine. See the factory service manual at http:www.fc3s.org and the fuel section and you will see the output of the tps should be approx 1volt. You'll find that in the CONTROL UNIT section of the Fuel section.

Yeah! your orifice is missing in action.

peacekeeper

I'm not sure if I have read all of your posts on this thread Troy, But have you done your fuel filter yet? You really want a good one. That will make the car F@#$ up as well, but I don't think it would do what its doing.
Charles

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, my digital camera is down but are you talking about the line in b/t the little black box just above the Airbox and the AFM? if so i cut up that vaccuum line and found nothing

peacekeeper

Yeah, the one connected to the passenger side shock tower. Thats the one.
Charles

peacekeeper

the same thing your fcd is conected to.

peacekeeper

Call me now and we'll talk.

peacekeeper

Hey Hailers.
The N/A should have that too right? Well both of mine don't and they both do some weird ****. Where can I pick one of these up?
Charles

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

****! well now i cant even get it to go above 2K. I was driving it and it felt fine while i was babying it. Then it started bogging and even stomping the throttle and letting off i couldnt get any power. not even enough to idle WTF is goin on man.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

dude i seriously think something in your fuel system is clogged. my **** was doing the same thing and i temporarily fixed it with some fuel injector cleaner. (keep in mind that my boost sensor is dead so its not perfect, but the car runs decent now) try to put some injector cleaner in that **** and get a sumbitchin' new fuel filter. check the fuel pump too make sure it doesnt have goop on it.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

heh, fuel filter pita to do. oh well. i thought you werent supposed to run injector cleaner in rotarys. Now i just have to figure a way to get it home its about 4 miles from my house hmm, im gonna see if i can get the hookup, hopefully my friend still has his towtruck

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

If my pump should have crap on it... what should i use to clean it?

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

ok, nevermind about the cleaning, peacekeeper can help me w/ that. I got the rex home alright, im going to pull the pump tomorow. is there any way i can test the injectors w/o pulling the whole throttle body/Intake manifold?

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well my parents are being bitches and want me to do everything possible before messing w/ the fuel system. The car starts but does NOT idle nor run for any amount of time. I pulled the AFM and checked it w/ my ohm meter. its within specs. is there anything anyone can think of?

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

make sure you don't have a vaccum leak either at the Blow off valve or the intercooler pipes. This will cause the car to die out real fast. You can adjust the idle speed up with the screw on the pass side towards the firewall (I believe). As for the rev limiting, my 88 T2 did the same thing after I changed the vac lines. I didn't know there was a reducer (pill) inline with the vac line going to the pressure sensor. Granted I only hit this hesitation like 4 times before I was able to fix it. Now, I'm not really sure what the computer thinks is going on without that reducer, but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that it throws it into an overly rich condition. Check the plugs make sure they aren't fouled out.

If you need to get a pill...search for pill in the forum and you should be able to come up with a part#

HAILERS

Somewhere on this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=14679 is the orifice/pill part number. Cost just pennies or a buck. Should be in the vac line to the boost/pressure sensor on a n/a or trubo. I *think*.

Spazzy the above was for Peacekeeper. Yours does sound like fuel starvation. Good luck.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. If its an injector problem I think I might have to forsake the GT-C bumper and buy a Haltec + new injectors hehe. that would be nice

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

8931-13-986

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ok. ive almost got this working again. Does anyone know what could make the engine do+/-500rpm "waves" or fluctuations for lack of a better term? I can rev it to about 2500 and not move the throttle and it will go as low as 2K and as high as 3K. Is this the ECU trying to compensate for something? Also, when it tries to keep it there, it keeps boosting, and in order to keep it above 2k i have to have it in slight boosted condition. instead of the little throtle i used to use to get it to 2k. help again?

Thanks
Troy

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Also, the rpm thing only happens when its cold. after it warms up it smooths out. But even hot, it will NOT idle at all. soon as it hits 1K its basically dead. On another note, I replaced the vaccuum hoses on the circular "thing" (egr valve maby) down back behind that has a vaccuum hose on it. ill post a pic to make it clearer.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

It is the EGR valve. And when i spray it w/ starting fluid w/ the car running, the thing revs pretty quick about 500-700rpm... big leak im gussing I Replaced the Vac line on the thing so what else could it be? Maby the gasket or the EGR valve itself

Also, someone give me a final yes or no about injector cleaner. I heard it was as bad for rotarys as altezza lights

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

do you have to pass emissions? I'm convinced that the whole reason emissions equip exists, is to make cars run weird. If you can just block that thing off. I used to have a rough idle. When I pulled the exhaust down to change to the srx7 3" I noticed a bunch of carbon marking around the egr. Also note that this car only has 40,000 miles on it....I could almost be positive it's leaking on yours.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys really thing that the AFM vaccuum leak could be the thing killing my idle? Just that one leak?

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

bump, help?

Barwick

um.. sounds like maybe a secondaries problem (maybe electrical)

I'd be willing to bet it's something electrical's messed up somehow. My Civic went into a failsafe and wouldn't go over like 3000 RPM once.. it was something mucked up in the distributor.

It was really weird, it would be fine under 3k, then it would just cut spark or something.. it wouldn't even rev past it.. it was funny..