Bought someone's project car. It's a electrical mess
#1
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From: Phenix City, Alabama
Bought someone's project car. It's a electrical mess
I bought the car for dirt cheap just for something to mess with.
Here goes.
1. It's a S4 chassis with a S5 motor and I'm assuming harnesses
2. He was swapping in a Taurus alternator.
3. Power to the head and tail lights but that's it.
4. Intake taken off as well.
5. All the emissions. A/C, and power steering have been removed.
I have checked the power at the fuse block under the hood. I get 12.63 at both sides of the 80amp fuse. So that fuse is good. Duh. Also since the alternator isn't hooked up I have an eyelet with an all black wire getting the same amount of volts. It's on the same loom as a 4 wire plug looks just like what's supposed to go to the CAS. I've checked the wires at the ignition to see if any of them were getting 12 volts and they weren't.
I don't get any power when I turn the key. No brake lights or turn signals either. Nothing from the warning light cluster either. I'm going to assume I have a problem with power getting to the ignition.
I'm looking to get the car on the road but to be honest I don't have a clue where to start. Im not to good at reading wiring diagrams. I do have a Haynes manual from a previous 7 I owned. Any help that can be given are greatly appreciated.
Here goes.
1. It's a S4 chassis with a S5 motor and I'm assuming harnesses
2. He was swapping in a Taurus alternator.
3. Power to the head and tail lights but that's it.
4. Intake taken off as well.
5. All the emissions. A/C, and power steering have been removed.
I have checked the power at the fuse block under the hood. I get 12.63 at both sides of the 80amp fuse. So that fuse is good. Duh. Also since the alternator isn't hooked up I have an eyelet with an all black wire getting the same amount of volts. It's on the same loom as a 4 wire plug looks just like what's supposed to go to the CAS. I've checked the wires at the ignition to see if any of them were getting 12 volts and they weren't.
I don't get any power when I turn the key. No brake lights or turn signals either. Nothing from the warning light cluster either. I'm going to assume I have a problem with power getting to the ignition.
I'm looking to get the car on the road but to be honest I don't have a clue where to start. Im not to good at reading wiring diagrams. I do have a Haynes manual from a previous 7 I owned. Any help that can be given are greatly appreciated.
#2
First, download the factory service manual. it not only includes wiring diagrams, but diagrams of the location and connector type. I've found it easy to follow. The FSM is also a much better reference than the Haynes manual.
Second, there have been conversions using a Taurus alt. The black wire with the ring connector getting 12V is likely the alternator feed--that attaches to the +12V post on the alt--not the metal body, it's an insulated post with a nut or bolt. There's a separate plug for the charge and indicator that plugs into a connector on the back of the alternator.
Second, there have been conversions using a Taurus alt. The black wire with the ring connector getting 12V is likely the alternator feed--that attaches to the +12V post on the alt--not the metal body, it's an insulated post with a nut or bolt. There's a separate plug for the charge and indicator that plugs into a connector on the back of the alternator.
#3
The wire off of the Main fuse that is closest to the trailing coil drops down below the fuse box and mates w/another like heavy gauged Black wire. This wire then continues to your Ignition Switch. At this switch there will be a connector from the Front harness connecting to the wires from the Ignition Switch which has two wires. One is solid Black and the other Black/White. The solid Black wire is the same wire which mates to the wire coming off of the Main fuse. This Black wire should also have 12 volts. If it does not then the connection of like wires is poor.
#4
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From: Phenix City, Alabama
Thanks for the responds guys. I wasn't able to actually get my hands dirty today. Just got home and I'm losing daylight fast. I did manage to get some pics that maybe you guys might be able to steer me in the right direction of where they go and/or if they are hooked right.
This is attached to the CAS. Is that the correct plug?I know the rest of those plugs go to the rats nest.
This is attached to the CAS. Is that the correct plug?I know the rest of those plugs go to the rats nest.
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#9
This is the eyelet that has 12v going too it that I was talking about in my earlier post.
Attachment 499020
Attachment 499020
Last edited by satch; 05-20-13 at 09:04 PM.
#11
#13
I would just start from scratch. That would be easiest. I took a similar project some years back and rather than looking for mistakes, get a FSM and wire up everything correctly.
You're going to be chasing errors after errors.
It's really not that difficult. Just mark what goes where looking at the FSM. Check for continuity and move on.
My project was cut harness everywhere because some kid thought "I'll cut here and here and drop in an SR20"
Kids are idiots nowadays.
You're going to be chasing errors after errors.
It's really not that difficult. Just mark what goes where looking at the FSM. Check for continuity and move on.
My project was cut harness everywhere because some kid thought "I'll cut here and here and drop in an SR20"
Kids are idiots nowadays.
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#14
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From: Phenix City, Alabama
Finally got some work done on the car. I sourced the wire that needed to go to a 12v source for the ignition to get power. I get power the the cluster and the turn signals now work.
I have not found the alternator plug. But I did find two plugs that have power when the key is on the are in the location of where the plug should be. I have looked in the wiring diagram but the plugs that I thought were right don't match th diagram.
I have the starter hooked up, but it doesn't do anything when I turn the key. I jumped the 12v lug to the stator wire and the starter turned over. So I'm getting power and the starter works. I have done the whole jump the two wires on the starter theft relay. Still a no go. I can feel the relay working when I press in the clutch pedal. I have also checked the clutch switches they both are in working condition. I can also here a relay on the pass side clicking when i turn the key to the on position. So now I'm stumped with the starter.
I've been trying to find a test precedure for the 5th gear switch and the neutral safety switch.
I have not found the alternator plug. But I did find two plugs that have power when the key is on the are in the location of where the plug should be. I have looked in the wiring diagram but the plugs that I thought were right don't match th diagram.
I have the starter hooked up, but it doesn't do anything when I turn the key. I jumped the 12v lug to the stator wire and the starter turned over. So I'm getting power and the starter works. I have done the whole jump the two wires on the starter theft relay. Still a no go. I can feel the relay working when I press in the clutch pedal. I have also checked the clutch switches they both are in working condition. I can also here a relay on the pass side clicking when i turn the key to the on position. So now I'm stumped with the starter.
I've been trying to find a test precedure for the 5th gear switch and the neutral safety switch.
#17
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Also. I have a couple questions pertaining to a few connectors.
I think this is the fuel pump connector? Correct or no?
#18
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The previous connector has a wire that goes all the way to this connector as well. I've looked in the FSM and from what I can tell it says this is a check connector? I thought those were all green...?
#20
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This plug has 12v but goes down a little but as I turn the key to start. Don't know where this plug goes to. I originally thought this was the fuel pump plug. But it's not nearly long enough. Anyone got a clue where it goes?
#22
I have a 6 pin connector near my MAP sensor that looks like that, and it is unused. That looks like it, but I am not sure.
Let me go outside and look.
EDIT: Nope, aint it.
Let me go outside and look.
EDIT: Nope, aint it.
Last edited by jjwalker; 05-25-13 at 07:53 PM.
#23
unfortunately with wiring in the condition you have the result usually isn't what you are looking for.
i just told a customer who moved he is probably going to have to find an electrical shop to go over the car for a much smaller problem. i know FCs, i know how people gut them out and i know how much of a nightmare they usually turn out to be when people half gut a car and then give up on it and someone else tries to piece it back together.
and last but not least, be sure the large square black plug below the fuse box in the engine bay is connected since it feeds power to the whole car. but i highly doubt that is your problem since the running lights work. this problem sounds like a front to cabin harness connection issue by your feet in the cabin, a faulty ignition switch, fuse box connection in the engine bay or unplugged harness at the ignition switch. but the main problem is just one of many more to follow, with all the loose connections you're finding.
at this point i would recommend parking a fully functional FC right next to it and begin comparing connections.
i just told a customer who moved he is probably going to have to find an electrical shop to go over the car for a much smaller problem. i know FCs, i know how people gut them out and i know how much of a nightmare they usually turn out to be when people half gut a car and then give up on it and someone else tries to piece it back together.
and last but not least, be sure the large square black plug below the fuse box in the engine bay is connected since it feeds power to the whole car. but i highly doubt that is your problem since the running lights work. this problem sounds like a front to cabin harness connection issue by your feet in the cabin, a faulty ignition switch, fuse box connection in the engine bay or unplugged harness at the ignition switch. but the main problem is just one of many more to follow, with all the loose connections you're finding.
at this point i would recommend parking a fully functional FC right next to it and begin comparing connections.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-25-13 at 08:01 PM.
#25
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Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From: Phenix City, Alabama
unfortunately with wiring in the condition you have the result usually isn't what you are looking for.
i just told a customer who moved he is probably going to have to find an electrical shop to go over the car for a much smaller problem. i know FCs, i know how people gut them out and i know how much of a nightmare they usually turn out to be when people half gut a car and then give up on it and someone else tries to piece it back together.
and last but not least, be sure the large square black plug below the fuse box in the engine bay is connected since it feeds power to the whole car. but i highly doubt that is your problem since the running lights work. this problem sounds like a front to cabin harness connection issue by your feet in the cabin, a faulty ignition switch, fuse box connection in the engine bay or unplugged harness at the ignition switch. but the main problem is just one of many more to follow, with all the loose connections you're finding.
at this point i would recommend parking a fully functional FC right next to it and begin comparing connections.
i just told a customer who moved he is probably going to have to find an electrical shop to go over the car for a much smaller problem. i know FCs, i know how people gut them out and i know how much of a nightmare they usually turn out to be when people half gut a car and then give up on it and someone else tries to piece it back together.
and last but not least, be sure the large square black plug below the fuse box in the engine bay is connected since it feeds power to the whole car. but i highly doubt that is your problem since the running lights work. this problem sounds like a front to cabin harness connection issue by your feet in the cabin, a faulty ignition switch, fuse box connection in the engine bay or unplugged harness at the ignition switch. but the main problem is just one of many more to follow, with all the loose connections you're finding.
at this point i would recommend parking a fully functional FC right next to it and begin comparing connections.