jon0886

iTrader: (1)

Title says it all... when I'm driving, the seatbelt light keeps blinking. It used to only turn on, I dealt with that, but blinking... aye...

How can I fix it? If its not worth the effort fixing, is there a way I can just jumper it?

Thanks!

jon0886

iTrader: (1)

Oh, also when I have the key in the "acc" position, my idiot lights don't light up like my friend's FC. Is there a problem here? He has an 91' S5 N/A and I have an 87' S4 TII.

SureShot

The warning light test should come on as you first turn the key to "ign", not "acc".

About the seat belt warning:
1) You could fix the driver's side latch switch. Maybe spray contact cleaner.
2) You could pull the latch switch disconnect.
3) You could take out the lamp & keep it as a spare.

Whatever you do - always wear your seatbelt.

Icemark

could be a CPU in need of rebuilding as well. The seat belt light is controlled by the CPU

GTUser

Exact thing happened to mine yesterday, 89 GTU. I got in and when I turned the key the seatbelt light started blinking and the warning sensor started beeping. I tried connecting the drivers side lap belt but this had no effect. I then connected the drivers and passengers lap belts and the blinking and beeping stopped. Haven't had it happen again, last night or this morning. It is probably a sensor with dirty contacts.

Icemark

Yeah, blinking and beeping is a fault in the mouse belt system.

GTUser

"Yeah, blinking and beeping is a fault in the mouse belt system."

Mouse belt system? please explain.

Icemark

The lame power/passive belts are often slang called mouse belts, like the belt is tied onto a stupied little mouse that runs back and forth.

SureShot

My rant: - The passive sholder belt is the dumbest safety idea ever.

They were demanded by the NTSB, but when the lap belt is not used with them, they can cause serious internal injury in a crash.

Then they break, you get them fixed under the recall, and they break again.

I disabled the retractor, removed the controller, locked them in the rear position, & put them on manually.
Except for the compromise in the lap belt attachment point, they work well (manually).

GTUser

Thanks for the explanation. I agree with the opinions on the auto shoulder belts. I thought the idea of optional seatbelt use was an effort to improve the species. They are there if you are smart enough to use them then you will survive to multiply and if you are dumb enough to ignore the seatbelt then you'll die young or be otherwise incapacitated and be stripped from the gene pool. Results a greiving family but the species improves and gets smarter.

jon0886

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I don't have mousebelts, just good ol' s4 seatbelts. So how do I go about fixing it if it isn't a worse case scenario (ECU)?

jon0886

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and about my idiot lights, not all of them turn on when in the on position. They turn on and off as if the engine was on, like door light on when the door is open, hatch light when hatch open, brake light when brake on, and so forth

casio

just as a shot in the dark, with my room fuse blown, my (just realised it was a different light, but ive come this far...) door light on the idiot cluster would blink sparatically. it wasnt "blinking," it was flickering. probably not your problem at all, but if that ever happens, now you know... "maybe its the room fuse..."

SureShot

I'd start with spray contact cleaner in the belt latch switches.
(spray, poke the tab in & out, repeat)
My favorite contact cleaner is CRC QD contact cleaner from the electric Dept at Home Depot.
It's also good for door lock switch position sensors, stereo controls, logicon controls, & once I even rescued a TPS with it.