2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 08-04-10, 06:19 PM
  #26  
Nyc Reppin
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Originally Posted by need RX7
You won't make 250 hp on an n/a without some serious porting (or nitrous).

First thing to do is a complete tune-up on the car (new filters, plugs/wires, change fluids, etc).

Another important thing for n/a FCs is to make sure your auxiliary ports are working correctly (do a search for the proper procedure for this). They operate off of exhaust pressure, so the exhaust you have may not be allowing them to work. No matter what anyone says, removing the aux port sleeves won't gain any power and will just mess up your low end if they're not working.

The stock intake isn't even a restriction until power levels higher than a stock port n/a will ever make, so I'd get a K&N drop-in filter and call it done.

For an n/a, I'd forget about making a ton of power, focus on getting the suspension and chassis dialed in so the car is fun to drive on twisty roads. It'll never be a pants shittingly fast straight line car.
Guess i'm still a "noob" being im about to ask this qu. What do you guys refer to when u mention "N/A???
Old 08-04-10, 06:20 PM
  #27  
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Ima go w naturally asperated, just hit me....
Old 08-04-10, 06:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by drchronic
Basically as long as I use a '88 or newer motor I'm good, although I have an open diff and I'm wondering if I should look into a LSD swap. What do you think?
An LSD swap is a great idea but don't get one until you decide whether you're going to go turbo or stay N/A.
Old 08-04-10, 06:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Ryan123
That is going to be a lot more then what I think it is your thinking about, it is not a drop and play “swap”. Anything over 400hp you have to be over protective in the since a small vacuum leak is not longer a small leak and that little leak can cost you your whole build.

1) You need to run a standalone
2) You then have to tune your standalone
3) The custom work that will have to be done will not be easy
4) Electrical harness extensions
5) Full fuel system make over

Most 20B swaps run around $10k from what I have read. I would ask around before even taking into account of doing that stated swap

If you are thinking of going Cosmo I would recommend the REW two rotor Cosmo, but even so that will be just as much work, however; finding parts and people who are also going through the same swap will be more abundant.

That is my 2 cents I’m sure someone will enlighten you more. I just want to point that out because once you know fully what your dealing with, the easer the decision is to make.
If I did a 20b I fully expected to have to address everything in between the motor and the tires. I assume that the torque alone from a 20b would split the stock driveline in half and probably blow the trans the first time I went wide open throttle. I know I'd be biting a lot off but It just seems like I can't get what I want out of my N/A... so I'll wait till I can handle that kind of undertaking.
Old 08-05-10, 06:11 PM
  #30  
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Expect ideally 170-180 at the wheels (200-210 at the flywheel?) after making sure the auxillary ports work well, getting an RTEK or standalone, and tuning it. A drop in filter will be 2 of that, a cone filter will actually reduce power without some kind of cold air intake.

For 250 the easiest and most common way is to swap in a used TII motor or buy a TII car. If you order a JDM TII motor there's a good chance it'll soon need a 3 thousand dollar rebuild.
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