Great fabrication there! Kudos.

Time for bigger brakes!

Thanks for sharing that Tubemiter program. I help build roll cages every other week for Jeeps, and I've been spending too much time notching tube. This was a great godsend to me.

 

i cant believe you still going with this build i thought you woul start the 4 rotor build by now

 

always fun to see your work!
you should put a link in the FC projects thread...LOL

 

I'll likely go with a 4 piston conversion using the 4 lug wheels I have. Should be as simple redrilling some 5 lug rotors and making a custom bracket to mount the caliper.

Glad it helped. That program has been very handy to me so I figured there must be others that can benefit from it's coolness.

But if you are building rollcages every other week, then it's time to invest in a tubing notcher.

I haven't even turned the boost up yet on the 13B, so the 4 rotor is a little ways off.

When I get around to it.

Update time I guess...

Not much has happened since the last time I updated this thread. I've just been driving the car around and enjoying it.

Got to the 1/4 mile two Fridays ago for some easy runs. My best time of the night was a 13.449. Before you go and say "That's slow!" keep in mind that the car is barely tuned in boost, only set to 13 PSI (the GT40R is way out of it's efficiency range) and I was launching like a grandma. Traction is my biggest enemy right now. Even with a granny launch, my 60 foot times were nearly 4 seconds and the car just wheelspins through 1st and most of 2nd on the track. On the street, there's no traction until 3rd. However you can tell that even running a mid 13 the car has a LOT left to give once the boost is cranked and the traction issues are sorted since trap speed even now is 111MPH. FCs running mid 13s generally trap around 100 MPH. My car really picks up in 3rd as it gains traction. There are videos at the track of the car hitting 3rd with the turbo wailing and people in the audience saying "Holy ****!" as the front end lifted with massive amounts of rear squat as the tires dug in. Maybe it's time for a set of DOT legal slicks for those track nights?

I'll see about getting those videos online soon.

The new list for stuff that needs to be done (in this order) is something like:

1. Finish tuning 0-13 PSI. Still way too high in the 10s.
2. Bump timing in boost past 10 degrees.
3. LSD! Need traction!
4. Boost controller! Want more boost!

Then interior and stuff...

 

You're still using the NA rear? NA Tranny?

So when are you going to come to my house and do something like this for me?

 

nice work aaron. looks great, i wanna see vids when it's done...keep it up man.

 

man thats hot i like

 

Damn straight. The only annoyance so far is that my diff is open, which is contributing to my traction problems. Need to get an LSD unit...

Down payment of 50% is required in the form a cashier's cheque made out to "cash".

I should have some track videos by the end of this weekend. Just waiting for my copy of Adobe Premiere Elements to show up so I can edit...

 

Haha yeah, everyone tells me that. I have a Lowbuck tube notcher that mounts on the trailer hitch of a truck, but I only have one die for it, and it's for a 1-1/4 tube.

Dies are pretty expensive, and I'm much used to the cutting/grinding wheels.

I showed the program to my friend, and he practically wet himself.

Now enough about that, I bet you could trap some pretty nice times on some slicks, 13's is pretty good considering your current situation.

 

wow - and it's still holding up?? you must be baby'ing it.

 

nice Aaron, I am happay to see the proyect comming along great. I can't wait to see some vids!

 

I love how everyone thinks the NA driveline is junk. Lol.

Good job Aaron, keep it up!!

 

Makes sense...I've seen some very cheap tubing notchers at a store we have in Canada called "Princess Auto". I think your equivalent is Harbor Freight? Basically made in China stuff, but most of it decent quality for the home user. They have a tubing notcher kit that uses hole saws and a regular drill to power it. Probably not a fast way of doing the notch, but easier and faster then grinding it out...Though it's hard to beat the cost of Tubemitre considering it's free and works wonders.

The mental picture of that was worth the root beer I just sprayed on my keyboard.

Once the lumpiness is tuned out of the map and I get used to launching the car again, I expect to be able to run below 13 on the current setup all day long. Hell, I'm burning up more then a second with my current 60 foot times.

When you see the videos of the 1/4 mile passes, I think you'll be surprised.

Really, I've been doing stuff that everyone says should break the NA drivetrain for the last 7 years and have only broken a driveshaft (well, two of them). The car is making a good amount of power now, but half as much as it will make then the boost is turned up to 17-18 PSI.

 

well that's what happens when that's all you hear about the n/a driveline. like a song stuck in your head it gets you kinda



it's not just surprising but it's also good to hear/read that. and here i just bought me a tII tranny for my project. at least i have something to fall back on

what type of clutch setup do you have to handle that beast??

 

Copper 6 puck, sprung. Unsprung clutches are for crazy people.

 

cant wait for the videos!!!

 

As promised, here are a few 1/4 mile videos from a few weeks ago. No hard launches or really serious runs, just testing and getting used to the car:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woj7628Z0ag

 

ive yet learn to edit my own films. sorry to throw this in your thread....but what program do you use to edit like you do???

custom everything!

thats classic!!
i love it!!

 

13's in the 1/4 aren't bad. Hell, we run 1.3 liter motors! Eat that Mustang!
Anyway, a bit off topic but not quite... Did you find a way to shield the fuel line better from the exhaust manifold? I remember it was running close to the hot side of the turbo/manifold. What about the heater line? I liked how you ran it close in the engine bay. it worked out I assume

 

Nice work. Gives me hope mine might run someday.

It looks like you need better brakes before you go tuning that thing, you don't want to run out of bite before you run out of track.

 

Aaron the project is simply amazing looking back on what you started with, its truely an inspiration. Congrats, your hard work paid off bigtime.

 

the open diff is probably whats protecting the n/a tranny with all the wheelspin. i would like to see if it holds up with an n/a lsd rear end

awesome progress, thanks for the updates

 

For years I used Adobe Premiere that I purchased sometime in highschool (educational version). Just recently it suddenly decided to become a trial version and no matter what I did, I could not reinstall the full version. So I went out and purchased Adobe Premiere Elements 3.0. For $129 it's not bad, and does all the stuff that the 10 year old full version of Premiere did.

In the past I've gotten lazy and just used Windows Movie Maker which is quite easy and quick to deal with. But it is very limited in what formats it can import and export.

It was easier then listing all the mods...I'm doing the updates mods list for my website right now and it's taken hours so far...

13s are pretty bad. The car would be in the 12s if I had traction (or more boost to catch up at the end of the track). Just need to tune the lumps out of the fuel map and I should be able to get a reasonable launch.

I have not messed with it as I've just been happy driving the car. But the plan is to make a small heat shield that extends under the intake manifold and up over the turbo slightly. There's enough room on the manifold studs to use them as a mounting point. It's about 1 hour worth of work, but I've been lazy.

My passenger was exaggerating the state of the brakes because they are single pot and there's a bit of warp in the rotors. In reality I was mainly engine braking and only about 50% on the friction brakes. For some reason, St. Thomas dragway has a VERY short runoff area so at night it's a bit scary when it comes up on you quickly.

Since I want to do a bit of road racing, I'm likely going to go with the torsion diff that Mazdatrix sells on their website.

The transmission will be fine with an LSD.

Tuning updates...

Nothing much to say. It's been raining on the weekends so I've not done any more tuning under boost...

 

Updates and Dyno Runs

On Monday I booked some time at Chandler Techologies to run the car on their Dynocom dyno. I was initially worried that the day was not going to go so well as my passenger side front caliper stuck on the way there (what the hell? Seriously....) but then again, you don't need front brakes to dyno a car!

After the car was strapped in, the baseline run made 320 RWHP at 13 PSI. Much more then was expected (I guessed it would make 266, others guessed 275) keeping in mind that the current "tune" in boost just meant that the A/F ratios were barely registering on the gauge at something other then 10:1 flat.

With each successive run we pulled a bit of fuel and gained between 10 and 20 HP every time. After approximately 6-8 runs (I lost count) the final number was 387 RWHP, 279 FT-LBS @ 13 PSI. A conservative estimate puts that right around 420 HP at the flywheel. Not half bad for an hour on the dyno on low boost. A/F ratios are in the mid 12s until about 5 PSI, falling to the mid 11s to 10 PSI, then low 11s to 13 PSI. Timing is still VERY conservative at 10 degrees. I could put a few degrees of timing into it right now and pick up a few more HP but I'd rather wait and borrow an EGT gauge (or buy a cheap one) before I start bumping timing too much.

The video from the last few runs is available to download in two formats. The first is a high quality Windows Media file and is about 15 MB in size. You can really see and hear things the way it took place (the whine from the turbo is unbelievable). You'll probably want to "Right Click, Save As" to download it instead of opening it directly in your media player. The 2nd link is the same video on YouTube but the quality is not that great (especially the audio).

Project Tina First Dyno Runs (WMA High Quality)

Project Tina First Dyno Runs On YouTube

The next step is to install a boost controller and crank that turbo up to 17 PSI where it belongs. I fully expect 500 HP to the wheels once I get into real boost...

 

WOW!!
67 HP to the WHEELS and you havent touched the timing yet....
are you using the preset timing that came on your standalone with your bridgeport? or did you load it off here somewhere?