ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

ok here i go:
*no power (top speed:25 MPH)
*unnatural rev cap (sometimes caps at 1700 RPM sometimes 3600 sometimes 5100)
*random constant beeping (usually happens when the car is stationary for a period of time reving or not. is there a warning buzzer installed for that???)
*coolant system: constant "add coolant" alarm with coolant full


if your going to say junk the car there are two words that i have for you "F&$% you!!!" I'M A STUBBORN YANKIE TO MAKE IT WORSE IM ITALIAN, I WILL NOT GIVE UP ON THIS CAR. now that that has been said anyone that can help me with any of these problems please do, i am ordering new injectors this weekend (HERE) while i am replacing the injectors i will also replace the fuel filter.

im a poor collage kid but this is my DD and 25 MPH max is unacceptable, not to mention the car (ether by transport or driving) has to move from TN to CO to deal with freezing temps and ice where i will need the car to be working at that time.

any advice would be cool and words of encouragement would be cool to, although im stubborn im starting to get depressed.

im in need of rest as ive spent my day trying to get my car to work, so ill check up on this late tomorrow, really late.

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

Before you start throwing money into your problem I suggest you compression check your engine. A simple forum search should yield results that will guide you through the procedure.

The 'add coolant' light is on due to a bubble in the top of the radiator, the coolant system needs to be burped. Search.

The beeping you are hearing is the ecu telling you there is a problem with a sensor.

I nicked this from the FAQ:

I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

you beep codes helped however i have burpped the coolant system several times (some one else told me of that)

i found that my TPS was unpluged, i will need to reset the ecu however disconecting the bat doesnt seem to do the trick, plus i need to read codes on my obd system so if anyone in the middle tn area is reading this please let me know.

as far as compression there is low comppression in the front rotor, that went away for a short time then came back the short time that it was gone was right after an atf treatment, the reason it is back is because after we got the car started we had to turn it off for a bit to clean up to take the car on a test drive, at which time we found i had low compression again. i am redoing my atf treatment when i install my new injectors next week, will keep you guys updated.

thebigbluecan

what psi was the front rotor at when you did the compression test?

DarkKnightFC

What year is it? Kind of sounds like limp mode for the OMP to be going or gone.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

its an 88 gxl.

did you check to see if its a blown coolant seal? Clogged cat?

Try taking the main cat off and punching the **** out of it so its hollow.

platinumyama32

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=reset-ecu

if that doesnt do it, search some more

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

dont know wastnt the one to do the test, that would be gnicoson, the previous owner, ill send him a message and ask him what the numbers where.

gnicoson

I didn't use a Mazda compression tester; just the quick and dirty check with a standard compression tester and holding in the valve to check for the three bounces. The back rotor seemed OK with three consistent bounces, but the front was about 25-50% of the back reading. At that point I was pretty sure it was time to rebuild the thing, so I really didn't troubleshoot any further.

I checked it just before selling it with the Mazda DCC and it wasn't throwing any codes at that point.

BTW - I haven't posted enough to get my PM privileges apparently, so sorry about not being able to reply to your PM (apparently I need 15 posts now .....).

Greg

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a chipped apex seal in the front rotor with compression that much lower than in the rear, espicially considering the rear is usually a hair lower than the front. Rebuild is the only way to fix it for good, although as long as the rear is still strong than you can probably still get a fair bit of miles out of it.

I have an '88 TII that was like this. If you find it floods on warm startup you might need to install an anti-flood switch so yur not constantly pulling the fuse to get your car to start. I drove my car for 8 months and almost 10000km's like this.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, if your rad is actually full (the rad not the overflow bottle) and the buzz is still going with the "Add Coolent" light on than it sounbds like your coolent level sensor is not working or not hooked up. It is a single wire that should be plugged into a little lead comeing off your rad right by the cap. If it is disconnected than reconnect it. If it is connected and the rad is full than the sensor is probably broken (I didn't think these broke often) and you'll probably need a new one. If you want to stop the buzz TEMP. UNTILL YOU GET A NEW sensor, just disconnect the wire and jumper it to ground. That will stop the buzzing but be aware that buzzer is there for a reason to prevent you from royally cooking the engine from running it low on coolent, so if it's disconnect I would be checking the coolent often and keeping an eye on the tep guage all the time. This would be a "want the buzzing to stop while I drive to the dealer to pick up a new one that I already ordered and is in."

Good luck

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the help i just found a cool shop to send the motor too, any one herd of a guy called Scott Steenhoek, yeah thats who i decided is going to rebuild mine im going to put the new injectors in then probably in jan. ill send the motor off for the rebuild. i kept hearing bad things about the jdm seals so decided to just send it off.