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which is the better LSD?

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Old 07-29-06, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I think you need to admit this is a silly idea and more on. Not only is an Infini diff extremely rare, it'd take a lot more money and effort to fit than simply swapping in a Miata centre.
Well until I read back I didn't see whether he was N/A or TII, so I just based my comments on the ASSumption that he was turbo, in which case it wouldn't be all that difficult... And besides when the guy said the ring gear is the wrong size for the Miata LSD to work, I assumed he meant in the TII diff... No harm no foul... Move along...
Old 07-29-06, 10:53 PM
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well . . some people prefer 'shrooms . . but you can start with the sunshine acid if you want
Old 07-29-06, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Omixeo
Well im thinking about finding a torsen from a miata like the write-up in the archives, that way I can keep the 4.3 ratio and have a torsen.

If I get the infini IV diff then ill need to get a TII driveshaft as well, not sure about the TII tranny.

Are you sure its 4.33? I always thought it was, but the specs in the FAQ say 4.300, so I just assumed that was correct.
Yes it's a 4.33 and if the FAQ says otherwise then it's simply not correct...
Old 07-29-06, 11:47 PM
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As per the FSM, the actual ratio is 43:10 (43 teeth on the ring gear, 10 on the pinion), so it is 4.30:1 as the FAQ says, not 4.33:1.
Old 07-30-06, 01:47 AM
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Sure the viscous diffs don't wear like a clutch type diff, but to assume that a viscous diff doesn't get worse with age is wrong. The fluid inside the diff that's responsable for the locking effect will degrade over time, especially if it's being used with sticky tires, lots of power, or aggressive driving.

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...t_nissan_350z/ (start on the 4th paragraph to see why viscous diffs aren't that good).

In the Miata world where many of the newer cars had viscous diff's it's said that if it is more than a few years old or has more than say 30K on it then it's effectively an open diff.

Actually for drifting, most would use a clutch diff with a very aggressive lockup, to keep those rear tires loose and spinning together.

As a generalization (from what I've read/my oppinion): Torsens are better for autocross, road racing and street driving as it's more predictable and linear. Clutch types are better for drag racing and drifting because they lock very well. Viscous are a distant second to either of the Torsen or Clutch types, but are a little better than an open diff because they wear out quickly.

Torsens can't handle big power (at least in the stock size), they'll brake if they're asked to transmit too much power, so for that a clutch type will be better.
Old 07-30-06, 02:40 AM
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I wonder why the miata diff swap is so popular. According to a quote by Racing Beat miata diffs are weak and many miata drivers swap with FC diffs.
Old 07-30-06, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
As per the FSM, the actual ratio is 43:10 (43 teeth on the ring gear, 10 on the pinion), so it is 4.30:1 as the FAQ says, not 4.33:1.
Ok whatever you say... I'm just not going to argue with you...
Old 07-30-06, 01:24 PM
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Some of the turbo Miata guys swap to the S4 NA clutch type diff because it is stronger than the Torsen in high HP applications, but they're a minority. The Miata Torsen is good to 250+whp. For an NA FC the Torsen will be more than strong enough.
Old 08-01-06, 04:36 PM
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^ fair enough...
Old 08-01-06, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
As per the FSM, the actual ratio is 43:10 (43 teeth on the ring gear, 10 on the pinion), so it is 4.30:1 as the FAQ says, not 4.33:1.

now that is what i call nitpicking...
Old 08-01-06, 05:43 PM
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For a 350 rwhp, maybe 450 in the next couple of years, I should just stick with the S4 Clutch type? This is for a car that gets drag raced, auto crossed, and occasionally curcuit raced.
Old 08-01-06, 05:50 PM
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if your gonna track and autox with a car with that much power look into an aftermarket one... kaaz is a good one and then of course mazdaspeed is good also
Old 08-01-06, 05:58 PM
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i wonder how much HP the FD Torsen Diffs can take before they go to the crapper, anyone know or have any ideas? I would think 400HPish would be the limit.
Old 08-01-06, 06:02 PM
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Anybody wanna trade a clutch type for a torsen?
Old 08-01-06, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by StarScreaM2k1
i wonder how much HP the FD Torsen Diffs can take before they go to the crapper, anyone know or have any ideas? I would think 400HPish would be the limit.
It's not the HP that kills them, but the torque rather... :/
Old 08-01-06, 10:33 PM
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they can handle 400HP til you drop the clutch with drag radials on and 6k RPM launch speed, case frags but the torsen still managed to hold together.

far as yours nick, well, i would say if you can find a good price on a torsen then go for that otherwise rebuilding your clutch LSD will give you years of life back to your diff and isn't as pricey as most people make it out to be.
Old 08-02-06, 12:13 AM
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4.30 and 4.33 make a big difference, when regearing your transmission. More specifically, when regearing 5th gear to a different ratio, that .03 difference could be 5-10 mph in gear-limited top speed. But really, who regears their transmission anyway? and where would you be able to do such a thing?

Back to the LSD discussion at hand, Torsen is the way to go if your car doesn't make that much power or torque, or if you don't launch your car at all. Clutch-type is better for high-hp and tq cars, just because it won't break as fast. You could always just weld the axles together for extreme lockup, but enjoy the click-click-click sounds as you try to turn your car in the parking lot.
Old 08-02-06, 03:56 AM
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Not to jack the thread or anything, but how would i know if my 89 gtu (s5) has open diff. or limited slip diff.(LSD). would it be easy to know even though i havent driven a car with an LSD? or can i just look under the car for a way to spot if its open diff.
Thanks.

~ Mike.
Old 08-02-06, 04:03 AM
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You can check the FAQ thread, it shows all the options the car came with. Or you can check the diff itself, there should be a tag or something that says if its an LSD or not.
Old 08-02-06, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Karack
now that is what i call nitpicking...
I don't really care what the exact ratio is. What I do care about is when people post incorrect info, refuse to believe it when they're corrected and claim the info in the FAQ is wrong. It's not like the correct info was hard to find.

Originally Posted by Roen
4.30 and 4.33 make a big difference, when regearing your transmission. More specifically, when regearing 5th gear to a different ratio, that .03 difference could be 5-10 mph in gear-limited top speed.
I see you just took at wild guess at that. The difference is a whopping 0.7%, or ~1mph if your theoretical top speed is 150mph. Totally insignificant.
Old 08-02-06, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I don't really care what the exact ratio is. What I do care about is when people post incorrect info, refuse to believe it when they're corrected and claim the info in the FAQ is wrong. It's not like the correct info was hard to find.

I see you just took at wild guess at that. The difference is a whopping 0.7%, or ~1mph if your theoretical top speed is 150mph. Totally insignificant.
It's not insignificant once you start changing the ratio's from .68 and down. On my simulations with a 4.80 final drive, .67 5th was around 175, factoring in wind and with a 380 hp, 2625 lb car. I think 4.88 ended up being around 165-170, if memory serves me correctly. While I did take a wild guess, the point is still made that, dependent on gear ratios, it can have a big difference.
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