like the title says i am wanting to make 350-375whp with around 12-15psi. i had a bnr stage 4 and it just didnt cut it and i dont want to max out the turbo just to make my goal. i would love as little lag as possible as i want this setup for kind of a all around toy...drifting,drag,autocross,etc...I've been doing research but just figured id get some other peoples inputs

 

Precision PT5862 CEA

Choose that in a T4 .84 Divided

 

Was the bnr stage 4 laggy? If I ever go bnr I'd only want a stage 1-3 , 300-350 whp is my goal, but with my stock s5 Turbo I'm hoping for 225-250whp on 10-12psi

 

Gt35r

 

the stage 4 should have gotten you near there, if not then something is wrong with your setup.

 

Thats what I was thinking myself.

 

we'll see what my home brew s5 hybrid puts down when i go to the dyno in a couple weeks (idk what wheel trim it is, is got a 59-60mm inducer), its fairly similar to the bnr stg4, but i'm running ~18psi on a stock s5 keg. i'm hoping for atleast 320whp.

my car is hitting 7-10psi @ 2200rpm, I think for faster response i would need a supercharger

 

i see were hes coming from i got rid of stg 4 too i felt like i was pushing it too much perfect turbo for under 350whp . i got a borg warner s360 now i want over 400whp got bord of the 300ho range

 

the stage 4 and up(additional options) are fairly laggy compared to the stage 1 and 2. but for a bolt on turbo they do just fine.

 

You're gonna get sick of every power till its uncontrollable lol

 

or it keeps going through motors. the FC engines are weak beyond about 350whp without internal upgrades.

 

wouldn't it make a bigger difference in spool time when you start putting larger compressors on the stock turbo depending on s4 or s5 turbine housing/manifold? the s4 i could see getting a little laggy

 

i don't feel like going into it again, the s4 turbo isn't THAT different from the s5.

 

From my experience running both turbos, the s5 is less laggy. especially when paired up with a larger compressor. stock to stock its almost undetectable because the compressor is so small. larger compressors & housings seem to show a more noticeable difference IMO/E. A compressor w/ a 60mm inducer with low AR reaching full boost (18psi) @ ~3k is pretty damn good.

On a side note i was never really sure if the "twin scroll" actuator/flap was working correctly on my s4 setup. That may or may not have had something to do with the difference in spool time, they were still close but the difference between the two was noticeable with the larger compressor.

 

What kind of upgrades we talking ? I thought 400whp was the magic number for the s4 rear iron.

What's a safe power goal on a stock port built s4 block with stronger aftermarket seals? 325whp stage 2 bnr?

 

i've seen engines lose irons even at 300whp if the tune isn't setup correctly or any of a hundred issues pop up down the road.

studding the block is probably the easiest method versus dowelling which i would say isn't quite as strong.

 

Well detonation is like a grenade going off inside your engine. Lol

How much does it cost to stud one? I've seen 400+ whp on stock engine before long time ago from some guy j-rat I think his name was with a 10ae. Wonder how much abuse it took before giving.!

 

there have been a few cases of people getting over 500whp from unopened blocks. but the way i see it and have experienced, unopened blocks have better holding grip than a rebuilt fresh engine does, with slicker clean mating surfaces.

studding and dowelling all range from about $350-700. it's not absolutely necessary but it is a safeguard. usually pushed more on people aiming for over 400whp.

 

didnt really have any complaints with the turbo honestly i just felt i was pushing it and stressing it to get me near what i wanted. great turbo and really not laggy at all! i just would like to make 350whp"ish without stressing the turbo or motor too much.
it made 339whp and 252wtq and nothing was "wrong" with my setup to my knowledge

 

what were you running for boost pressure??

 

Probably more to do with specific variables that you really have no control over. Engine compression, ambient air temp, the dynos accuracy etc, also how aggressively tuned it is. Obviously a more conservative tune will yield less power.

How much boost were you running? I believe the stage 4 is good up to 18psi but don't quote me

 

17-18psi

 

was it on a dyno jet?

 

problem probably lies with the Rtek, no offense to them or you but it is probably the least capable "EMS" out there and i simply don't trust it to make peak performance from most any setup. hopefully they also made it able to adjust multiple cells at the same time, i was getting carpel tunnel from tapping that palm pilot.

J-rat i believe ran his stage 4 up to about 415whp before the turbo gave up due to the 2 step and i've personally tuned a stage 4 that put out more at just 12-13psi.

of course changing the turbo is probably cheaper than buying a new standalone.

if it was a mustang dyno then that is probably one reason why it seems low.

 

Had (2) S4's and each twin scroll didn't work. The actuator bolts snap, vacuum hard lines rot or get pinched, etc. Still made boost in a really low rpm. Don't know what the fuss is about. Maybe I'm just use to high rpm 600cc street bikes and 2-stroke dirt bikes where your always on the rpm's anyways.