what I was saying is that ELF makes the Mazda Dexelia Ultra 5W30 oil which is what ELF recomends being the SXR 5W30 the same thing I have been trying to say from the begining..

BUY ELF OIL

 

Hey Spooled, did I ever tell you that the last time I changed my oil it looked just like when I put it in 3 months ago? I couldn't even tell the difference. I thought I would save money and just re-use it because it looked brand new. You know what? Because I never get any grime in my oil, I never have to change it! I must build perfect engines...

 

its cause your tolerances are at 0

glad you are helping me build my engine this means I will ALWAYS have perfectly clean oil with no grime...

cant wait

 

Sceptics in an RX-7 forum? That's about as shocking as a vendor toting the exact brand of oil that he sells as the absolute best.

The scepticism and critique is pretty funny coming from you two. One of you is offering tech advice in your sig, yet can't tell the difference between series of engines, or series of turbos, and is yet to finish his first engine build. Should the blind really be leading the blind? The other quite obviously displays his level of build quality:

Grinding the sealing surface on a rotor housing??? Yet you mock me for determining my own set of clearances for engines and the results I get, on something you have absolutely no experience in?

Thanks for the laugh fellas Your oil is dirty, you should go change it.

 

I have to admit, that was good. One could assume that Spooled sells and endorses ELF because he believes in it. I am sure he could just as easily sell Redline if he wanted to. I will however stick by my suggestion of using a dremmel tool to smooth out a housings edge. It works.

I am going to apologize for my previous comment. I'm not usually sarcastic in a rude way, it's been a rough week. I respect your opinions, but I will disagree until I see an engine that has clean oil after 3,000 miles.

 

LOL. I just watched Horsepower TV do this on Spike.

They did.
Replace oil and filter with regular oil, idle motor till 160 degrees, then dyno. (Engine Dyno)
Replace oil and filter with RP oil, idle...dyno....(Same engine and engine dyno)

Gains
6 ft lbs
8 hp

 

haha, i was just watching this too

 

As far as synthetics go in rotaries, I've gotten the best out of Red Line because of its thermal stability. One unique aspect of the rotary engine is the fact that oil is sprayed into the rotors to cool them at operating temperatures. This is the only significant heat sink for removing the heat energy made during combustion that goes into the rotors rather than the block. The e-shaft removes a good portion, but that's because it's filled with oil as well, so it boils down to the oil doing the job. By contrast, a piston has a very large surface area in contact with the surrounding head, and dissapates heat that way, in addition to having a smaller combustion surface area that's fired fewer times per revolution.

The point I'm getting at is the oil absorbs a lot more heat in a single cycle than in a piston engine. On top of that, the oil is goes through a cooler at the beginning of the cycle to bleed off heat, and few things kill oil faster than constantly changing its temperature.

A Group V oil will handle this better than any other. Brand arguments aside, that's a basic fact. When it comes to naming brands though, Red Line is the only Group V POE oil I know of that can be found on the shelf.

Royal Purple works great in other cars, though I've noticed it starts losing its viscosity as it breaks down, which is an accelerated process for the reasons I just went through. That could cause a bunch of problems in a rotary over extended oil drain intervals, especially to the apex seals if you're not premixing.

Amsoil does the opposite and its viscocity goes up as it wears out, and seems to have some boil-off problems. By far the worst problem I've seen, though, is the complete disappearance of the TBN (total base number, the acid-combating ability of the oil) after about 7000-8000 miles, despite their advertised intervals of 10-25K miles.

While I don't know a whole lot about Idemitsu's composition and lifecycle, it was chosen for the LeMans rotary cars, and that's got to count for something.

 

That shows how little you know about me..

I sell Elf, Castrol, Redline, Lucas, Lubro moly, Volsynthes, Pentosin, total etc...

I chose elf because it is the best out of everything I have tried.. that and the literature speaks for itself...


As for the rest.. I know how to determine series of engine not sure where that came from... I was an ASE certified mechanic for over 6 years.. I have been in the automotive industry for over 10 years.. Don't comment on my lack of knowledge with cars etc.. You not only don't know me but you have no room to doubt my integrity.

This is becoming more of an argument then a discussion on oil PREFERENCE...

 

Buh, I can never get out everything I mean to say in the first shot without having to subsequently edit or make a new post...

One other thing. In Xw-Y multigrade oils, it's a good practice to keep X and Y as close together as possible. An additive called a viscocity modifier is what allows the oil to try and retain its viscocity across the temperature range. These are complex molecules that unravel (swell) as they heat up, causing the oil to run thicker than it otherwise would. Unfortunately, they are fairly large and easy to break apart from temperature changes and sheer. That's why most racing oils are straight grade while street oils are multigrade-- the driver of a track car can retune for the current conditions and won't stress the car until it's up to temperature, while Joe Consumer is going to have a lot of instances where he needs to just jump in his car and drive it cold regardless of whether it's 40 or 80 degrees(F) outside.

The bigger the difference between between the Xw-Y numbers, the more of these modifiers have been added, and the more crapped out an oil will be after it starts to wear. In other words, 10w-30 will last longer than 10w-40 or 10w-50.

Also, if you premix, you're going to want to use a lower viscosity oil. The thicker oil is recommended to better seal the apex seals after the oil has been injected. Rotary engines have more sheer surfaces than high-pressure points compared to a piston engine, so if you take the apex seals out of the equation you're going to want to drop away from the recommended 20w-50. Because of the very high film strength inherant to Group IV POA and Group V POE oils, you can go pretty low.