K which is the best oil for performance? How about this?
http://www.mimousa.com/home.asp?dir=products&prod=2417

 

i heard that royal pruple stuff works great, jus its expensive.

 

If you can get ELF (soon to be Total) buy that you will need the SXR 5W30 unless you don't have an omp then you can run 10W50 like I do (if you want)

ELF has a certificate from Mazda to be used in the Rotary engine and yes this is a synthetic oil PURE synthetic made with ONLY base 3 and base 4 stock... It is made in france where they have higher oil quality control standards then in the US market.

 

Generally, Group V synthetic is best for performance, such as Red Line. However, if you want good engine oil for a STREET car, then Castrol GTX has proven to be a top-notch affordable oil that protects just fine for street use and minor racing events.

That is over-priced and over-hyped (ricer/drift) Group IV oil. If you like that, just buy Royal Purple and pour it in a fancy bottle and tell your friends you paid $12.50 a quart. Oh yeah, and don't forget your stickers.

 

Really? So what is the standard for oil in France?

 

+1 on Redline, you get what you pay for. Oil is one of those things that can come down to personal preference so you may find there is no definitive answer to your question.

 

Aren't the rotary engines designed to burn oil? If so...using most synthetics would seem to cause problems..as they don't burn as clean as most dino right? I don't know...

 

I mean exactly how are rotary engines lubricated? What part does oil play in the engines ablility to run well for a long time? If oil in these engines is mainly for lubrication then I would say stick w/fullysynthetic. But, from what I understand, mazda says use dino only...but that may be some political stuff...who knows?

 

I always run 20w50 castrol GTX...

 

i recommend reading this

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forum...ad.php?t=23349

oil FTW

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_207.htm

 

+1. I've heard this too, but can't separate myths from fact. Someone clear up the debates and bullshit?

 

royal purple. idk if its the best (probably not) but its supposed to be one of the better brands, and i've never heard anything bad.

 

Yes, rotary engines burn oil by design. In order to lubricate the apex seals and such , oil is injected into the combustion chambers, where it will of course burn up.

There are a few synthetics (such as ELF) that can run fine in rotaries. But I think some are not good. I don't know which ones or why. I run (non-synthetic) Castrol GTX 20w50.

Because rotaries burn oil, what the oil leaves behind (it's ash content) is important when considering what kind of oil to use in a rotary. GTX has low ash content and is recommended by a lot of people on the forum, which is why I use it.

 

FAQ's

 

Elf synthetic oil has to be a minimum of base stock 3 oil more base stock 4 (refering to the refining process)

in America synthetic oil only has to have 12% base stock 3 (base stock 3 being determined as SYNTHETIC oil) where in Europe a synthetic oil has to start with 100% synthetic..

Only made here in US is not a true FULL synthetic.. it is derived from a minimu mof 12% synthetic which means the us standard to be called a synthetic...

Elf oil SXR 5W30 is DESIGNED to be used in a rotary engine because it will burn clean and leave less deposits..

 

Lol, i dont hear much about oil, but like i said everybody says royal purple is a good brand, other than that only thing ive have heard is not too use pennzoil for some reason, dont ask why...

The oil thing is kinda confusing, ive always heard do a oil change every 2.5-3k but why do a oil change if your always topping off the oil since its jus burning it up wouldnt it always be new oil.

 

the iead is if you are using a QUALITY oil.. yoru oil should look very dirty because it is pulling the grime off the internals of the engine.. in doing so the dirt and grim will be sittign in the bottom on the oil pan. if u drain out the oil that grime should com eout with it..

that and all that grim will be floating in the oil scoring up all the internals it touches..

thats why u need to change your oil.

if at 3000 miles you have nice clean oil still your oil is NOT doing its job!

 

kk Ill use royal purple and see how it does.

 

I have heard problems with Royal Purple with boosted domestics on other forums


Schaeffer Oil >> anything

Premix and use synthetic...... once you pull the engine apart you will see the "why" of premixing

 

I use the Elf 10w50 on my 84K motor with no omp
the turbo engine I am building will be 10w50 (no omp) from the very first fill..

I am super impressed with the elf oil and for the cost is it WELL worth to use it in all my cars...

 

I wish I could see some pics of the inside of the engine to see the difference

 

when I bought the car it has 78K on it.. I dont know what it was using.. I now use the elf and have since I owned it and it runs very well and I have no problems at all.. I beat the snott out of the car no burning, leaking or smoking..

I use it in my van that has 140K and my Ford f150 that has 235K

the van runs very well and the ford runs better today since I have used it then it did when I bought it..

I will stick with ELF prolly for ever...

they are the OEM manufacture recomended oil for over 80% of the import and some of the domestic market now... that has to say something..

 

Royal Purple is the best if you want to go ahead and he a synthetic...but ive heard people say that they've been running synthetic for awhile and almost no build up has accured...

I use and suggest Idemitsu Rotary Racing Oil, its going to be about the same price as Royal Purple, but its specfically made for rotary motors...

you can buy it as mazdatrix i believe...try it out, its realy nice =]

 

+2

 

So where exactly do you get this ELF (soon to be Total) oil?