Roddimus Prime

there's always someone/something faster....this guy is only asking for best bangs for the buck for his particular car. People posting and telling him to buy a different car are just being argumenative.

From what I've found the mods I've done are pretty decent and I've got less than $400 in the whole car.

cat delete pipe off ebay $48shipped (RB claims 18hp from this)
dual alternator pulley $20shipped (just to prevent overheating and provide better cooling)
removal of fan/clutch and replace with electric fan ($50-$250)
removal of AC/PS (free)
removal of smog pump (done with the cat-delte pipe) $6
S-afc $200shipped (good for 10-25hp based on members comments)
weight reduction $FREE!!

foild

why did you quote me?

i allready have suspension, SAFC2, intake, RB header/straightpipes/CS catback.. new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, aprx 80,000 on my original engine... etc etc etc...


i thought it was time for some more power, and i chose nitrous since its my daily driver and dont need the extra "boost of power" if you will all the time, driving in bumper to bumper traffic coming and going from work..

foild

its sprung, not unsprung.. and 75 HP to the wheels at the crack of a whip produces a lot of torque.. from what i have been told from scathcart the 4 puck RB disk is required to make it a good reliable system.

KillaKitiie

umm i never said thats what you have to do..to make it fast.thats just a LIST of mods ive heard of for an na.personally putting 6k into a turbo would make it sick fast but seriuosly can it be a daily driver?will it last 150k-200k+miles?and if you have six g's and want reliability go ls1,it wouldnt cost 6k.if i had more money and could have a toy to PLAY with it would be a t2.hence the guys title BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS.ported uim and lim=free,weight reduction=free,tb mod=free.removal of ps and ac=free,intake=10-20$.

ddub

Hard to say. I'd say 88IntegraLS is up there (he hit like 14.7 or something with still stock exhaust), Pangarufoo and Kahren are probably up there too though I don't know if either have ever tested their quarter, and I don't want to sound cocky but I'll be shooting for 14 flat possibly 13.99 once this summer once some things are in order.

Oh and 88IntegraLS hasn't spent squat really except for parts to rebuild his motor, he did the porting himself, lots of weight reduction, and I believe he finally has an RB header and high flow cat now. No idea how much Pangarufoo and Kahren spent, and I haven't spent anymore than an average TII person might spend, though he/she will net better times. Less than 500 on the rebuild which I did myself, ported myself, ported manifolds/TB myself, wideband/safc and tuned myself, weight reduction was free, exhaust was cheap and custom, suspension doesn't have much to do with speed except maybe less drag and that was the most expensive thing I've done.

People just think getting an N/A fast is hard because they give up too easily, or don't have the knowledge to do the work themselves.

And that "beefy N/A" thread really isn't all that great of a thread IMO, it has a few helpful tips but some of the stuff it talks about wont do anything.

ddub

The 75hp you talk about here, if that's from the 75 shot of nitrous, you WONT get 75 to the wheels, remember 15% drivetrain loss is the best scenario, which would be 63.75hp to the wheels if you achieve the 15% loss, lots of the time it could be more.

foild

right, my mistake.

question for everyone here...

if i am in fourth (happens in all gears, but i can hear it most clearly in 4th) and i push the clutch pedal in, and then let off the clutch pedal fast, i hear a light "clunk" sound from the rear end.. what would this most likely be and what would be reqired to fix it

P.S. im not trying to steal the thread... just dont wanna start a new one for most likely a easy answer.

BDoty311

Wow, that would be great and all, but there are so many more NAs out there than TIIs. Finding a turbo II is hard, finding a decent one is harder, and finding one at a decent price is harder yet. Finding an n/a is easy, and there are more of them. Its not always as simple as some people make it out to be.

foild

well, disregard my last message... looks like its the differential mount..

ddub

Or driveshaft u-joints, or many other things. Most common on this board seems to be the diff mount, but you can check it out and see if it is indeed broken or not.

Bukwild

"Wow, that would be great and all, but there are so many more NAs out there than TIIs. Finding a turbo II is hard, finding a decent one is harder, and finding one at a decent price is harder yet. Finding an n/a is easy, and there are more of them. Its not always as simple as some people make it out to be."

I sold a mint 88 t2 last year that was in the best kept shape I have ever seen a stock second gen in before for $3800. And I got a ton of emails offering 2k-3k all low ballers. The cars are out their but most NA guys on this forum will not pay the 3-5k to buy a t2 and sell their NA for 2-2.5k. They would rather dump money into a NA that they dream will be fast. Fact of the matter is by the time you buy a clutch and a flywheel for the NA you are already half way into the money to buy a t2. My advise to forum members is if you want to stay NA thats great. But don't advise people that they can have a fast car by doing a couple of things like headers and other BS like this because the only way to get that engine into the 11's is rip it down and full bridge port it and that only lasts 15k miles and is no longer something you will drive in traffic daily. Forced induction or cubic inches are the only way you are going to get fast. End of story.

Madrx7racer

U joints make the whole car vibrate at round 60 mph.....if that happens then change it immediately...and I guess I miss quoted you Foild......my bad.

Madrx7racer

your car must be SO LOUD!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you are right about the nitrous and the 4 puck clutch.

torean

kahren's car is board lining stock.......its got custom runners and TB plus haltech.... hes got a nice weight reduction from the burned off rear bumper....

ddub

Not always, mine were "going out" and caused minor clunking, but no vibration. Mainly because they were still somewhat okay, but not completely useless/shot yet.

Any mount (engine/tranny/etc) can also cause clunking or other weird noises.

gerbraldy

yeah, that sums it up but only for a street car ofcourse. My buddy had a half-bridge, definitly not a full bridge but it went for 78,000mi. It was driven on the street, just pamper'd and only floor'd at the appropriate times.

Madrx7racer

well that's the difference....yours were OK and on their way out......once they start vibrating you should really replace them......or else:

gerbraldy

^Ouch, if my transmission could see this, it'd fell the pain.

87RX7TII

"http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm"

Anybody have any experience with this?
Seems awfully cheap for an o2

KillaKitiie

Man you make na sound like thier slow...You talk like its a hyundai excel or some ****.damn!Its still quicker than any stock honda(mind the s2k an nsx) Why would i want all the damn problems of a turbo?I dont know **** about turbo's man ill be honest ..But i read all day long on here about how this is not working right and whys it doing this..Most of the na guys just have idle problems and ****.If i was bored and had alot of money to dump into some crazy turbo project i might,but considering ide want something that would last 100k+miles i would probably just put a damn ls1 into an fc and have it be faster than 80% of the damn turbo rx's out thier.Anyway naturally aspirated rx-7's are not slow and also they ARE capable of being quick.You make it sound hopeless and a waste of time to own this car.turbo's are quicker i think we all learned that along time ago.But according to you i guess all us na guys should go sell are cars right now and look for a t2.

Madrx7racer

my fiancee's GTUs is quick......but there is a reason she loves driving my GTUs turbo....and why she wants to go turbo......they are quick....not fast.


quick:





Fast:



pwned:

Bukwild

"Man you make na sound like thier slow"

I would not call a high 15 low 16 second quarter fast

"Anyway naturally aspirated rx-7's are not slow and also they ARE capable of being quick."

Not if you still want them streetable and it will cost alot just to get into the low 14's.

"But according to you i guess all us na guys should go sell are cars right now and look for a t2."

No if you are happy with your car for driving around and having fun its is a great handling and very affordable car. This topic was bang for your buck mods. That usually means this person is intrested and realizes his car needs to be faster. The best bang for his buck mod is to pony up another 1-1.5k for the turbo2. Their are alot of people in denial on this forum of the potential of their car. And I guess you have not been to a drag strip in a while. A 1900lb civic with a vtec will own your na at the 1320

ddub

That is completely untrue. I got into high 14's (14.9) on stock port and some various mods without spending much at all. Still very streetable and daily driven. Looking for 14 flat this summer, possibly dip into high 13's but I don't know if I'll be able to without any forced induction (including nitrous) or standalone.

torean

very simple....just juice .......per fill up is what?......5 bucks?.....and the initial investment is <$1000 while getting 50-75shots...thats probably the cheapest HP/$$ u can calculate.....or just sell the 7 and buy a civic then mod that....more parts for it anyway

Marcus_F

To anyone who owns a TII, and says it’s better to buy a TII rather than mod an NA, why wouldn’t you advise an FD rather than a TII? It seems that all the same reasons would apply.
If all out performance is the goal, the biggest bang per buck can usually be found on two wheels.

In my last 15 years of FC ownership, the biggest bang per buck (and I’ve bought a lot of stuff that has been later sold for half price/thrown away) has definitely been regular maintenance. That may not be what you wanted to hear, but it’s true. Here is some “other stuff” I’ve found beneficial: Struts/shocks, the lightest wheels I could find, a quality exhaust (specifically, a Racing Beat header - my experience with other stuff as been expensive and not as beneficial), a good radio to cover the sins of the exhaust, good speakers (did I mention a good exhaust is really loud?), lightweight flywheel (it’s not loud), CLEAN INJECTORS (oops, that’s maintenance, isn’t it?), and I recently bought a CD ignition which has given surprising results. The $100 voodoo box has increased gas mileage to the point where it will pay for itself. Something that loud exhaust will never do.