My car has been for sale for about a month and I'm replacing my pd because its leaking. The uim has never been taken off. Because it's for sale, I'd rather not order a Haynes manual and I want to get this taken care of asap. The short instructions in the FSM are just that- short. Is it really that simple? Theres plenty of hoses all over I don't know which have gas or coolant or are just vacuum lines. Also, is the m12x1.25 banjo bolt something that I can find at a hardware or auto parts store?

 

I don't think you'll find it at either store, but your best bet would be an auto parts store.

Just mark off which hoses go where. Better yet would be t snap a pic of the engine bay before you pull hoses.

Most will be vacuum lines. There are two fuel hoses attached to the fuel rails. There are two coolant lines to the throttle body. (They will have braided pattern on them and be thicker than the vacuum lines. They will also have clamps on them since the cooling system has pressure in it.)

Prepare a couple 8-10mm shaft thickness bolts for the coolant lines. Just pop them off and shove a bolt in there. Stops coolant from going everywhere.

 

Post #2 in the link below should help.

Also, remove plug to BAC and TPS. Of the two coolant hoses, one is on the back of throttle body and has foam sheathing or covering on it in two places while the other one connects to the BAC and comes from the top of the water pump housing. All of the vacuum hoses "should" be the same size except the vacuum spider hose located on the front and very top of the throttle body.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=remove+uim

 

perfect. thanks.

 

You may also have to replace cracked/broken vacuum lines and/or oil metering lines. It's also a good time to clean the fuel injectors. You also need a replacement UIM gasket. The old one can be difficult to remove.

 

These can be purchased at a local auto parts store such as O'reilly's. The hose measurement is 5/32 id ( inner diameter). Not counting the vacuum spider for the oil injectors, 15 feet will be sufficient to replace "all" and leave enough for mistakes with some room to spare. It would also be a good idea to clean up the ground wire connection.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/


Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.

Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?

 

does the bolt in that link come with the fitting?

 

That bolt looks correct.

No sealant is required since the threads are straight metric threads and the fittings are sealed with the crush washers.

Why are you using a banjo bolt instead of just replacing the damper? This should be something disclosed to the buyer of the car.

As for manifold removal, the advice in this thread is good. Just make sure to label all wires and hoses so they go back in the correct location. You'll probably need a new 90 degree coolant hose so order that in advance. The UIM gasket material can be easily removed by using using a Scotch Brite pad in a drill (stuff some rags down the LIM first).

You might just want to buy a kit of vacuum hose since it's a good time to replace it all now.

 

It's really not as hard as it looks. Like they said, you can label all the hoses and that will make it super easy to put everything back together.

 

aaron, with all do respect, not many people want to buy one, or have the notion of buying one.
thats like buying a ford explorer with Firestone tires, and then willingly get a new set of Firestone tires because it an oem suggestion.


also guys, dont forget about injector o rings or bungs.

also, be sure to be careful with those connectors. they will break.

the oil metering pump lines are color coded, make sure you know where they bolt to. the haynes or shop manual will telly you this.

but dont worry about it. the whole ordeal can be done in a weekend if you go slow.

 

I'm doing banjo instead of the pd because 1) My opinion is that it will have no effect on a completely stock n/a and 2) I don't have $150-200 laying around to put in a car that I'm trying to sell. I also don't have any problem telling any potential buyers that it has had the pd replaced with the banjo bolt because I have yet to read any stories of an n/a having troubles with it.

 

Not sure I see your analogy.

I think with the tire analogy it would be like your tires wearing out and replacing them with some cheap walmart tires that aren't the right size. As opposed to putting some 65-70k mile tires that will last for a long time.

I can completely understand why the OP is doing the banjo fix but I wouldn't do it for a permanent fix in my own car. The pulsation damper serves a purpose unlike some of the parts on the car. I believe you could get an after market fpr though.

 

It's always a great debate on rx7 club about wether the pd bolt mod is a bad thing or a good thing.

I'm confident if the entire fuel system is in good order (no cracked/jank *** hoses or clamps, good injectors with good grommets/o-rings) then the banjo bolt mod wont hurt anything.

A $10 fix that hasn't shown any ill effects seems to be a good alternative to paying $100+ for a piece of plastic that is in contact with fuel that is close enough to the exhaust manifold to make me uneasy.

 

btw if anyone tries to read this thread because they're doing the banjo bolt, the bolt in the that link is wrong because it has a female port. the port is too hard to seal and the m10x1.0 bolt in that size is impossible to find. Buy the one with NO FEMALE PORT

 

i did the bango bolt swap on my primary fuel rail. seems to be just fine imo.

 

the ford explorer firestone debacle? the tires exploded on many cars and they recalled them.

however, mazda refuses to issue a recall for the pulsation dampener.

 

I'm still doing the banjo bolt but I'm just saying that the one in that link above is the wrong one. you need the one with no female port. I just ordered this one. I just ordered this one it should work. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EA...5&autoview=sku

 

Did you replace any secondary fuel injector grommets when you pulled off the uim or did you leave those alone? Did you find it easy to remove the injector clips? How did you go about removing the gasket under the uim? Did you drain the engine of coolant before removing the necessary coolant hoses or did you just try to catch it as you removed the hoses.

 

because the countless people running banjo bolts without a single failure would warrant telling a potential owner of a car? i honestly would choose to have the banjo bolt installed than the crappy OEM fuel PD even if it is brand spanking new.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._dampener.html

this was enough motivation for me to swap it.

 

I didn't touch the injector grommets. The injector clips were easy to remove however one shot off into space nowhere to be found but I improvised one by shaping a cotter pin of the correct thickness and it holds perfect. The gasket probably took me the longest. I used a crapload of methods: 3m scotch pad with battery drill. dremel tool with metal wheel. Various razors and scrapers. I got it all clean and I dressed both sides of my new gasket and it doesn't leak at all. There was so little coolant theres nothing to worry about theres only 2 of them and i just stuck bolts it them no big deal. Once you've taken the uim off once, it only takes like 10 minutes the second, third time, etc. Its not a big deal.

 

My pd was on its way out... I'd drive to the gas station buy a cigar come home smoke the 'gar in front of my 7 and it would taste like gas...I always thought they were selling me gas tasteing cigars.. quick lil banjo bolt change no more gas smell comin from my 7...

Oo yea why don't yall use the banjo bolt from oppsite side of the primary rail... that's what I used works perfect.. Find one in a junk yard..

 

According to the diagrams, that's an M14x1.5 thread pattern and the bolt needed to replace the Pulsation Dampener is a M12x1.25 thread pattern.

 

that is a great link with lots of motivation, I am doing the banjo bolt this weekend, instead of paying $100+ for the FPD and $200 for labor, it will only cost me $15 for the bolt and mid and upper intake gaskets total. my FC smells like a gas station too.