bearing or brake problem? I cant decide... maybe you can!
#1
bearing or brake problem? I cant decide... maybe you can!
okay so I have the speed sensitive squeak comming from the passenger side rear.
1. it goes away under braking
2. it goes away under e-braking (not like yankin it stupid :P)
3. the pitch will go away or change pitch under swerving from side to side like an asshat.
4. the rear shock has a bad strut mount (being replaced on Wednesday)
5. tire wiggling indicates that the rear bearings are tight.
6. today re lubed caliper sides in the rear, added brake quiet, and no dice.
7. tends to happen when the brakes or car is warmed up a bit.
8. rear rotors recently machined and new ceramic pads installed, possibly too thin or warped??? dunno
tommorow when I replace my strut mount I will swap rotors and see if the noise changes sides but other than that do you think that it is my rear passenger wheel bearing or my rotor?
1. it goes away under braking
2. it goes away under e-braking (not like yankin it stupid :P)
3. the pitch will go away or change pitch under swerving from side to side like an asshat.
4. the rear shock has a bad strut mount (being replaced on Wednesday)
5. tire wiggling indicates that the rear bearings are tight.
6. today re lubed caliper sides in the rear, added brake quiet, and no dice.
7. tends to happen when the brakes or car is warmed up a bit.
8. rear rotors recently machined and new ceramic pads installed, possibly too thin or warped??? dunno
tommorow when I replace my strut mount I will swap rotors and see if the noise changes sides but other than that do you think that it is my rear passenger wheel bearing or my rotor?
#2
That's JDM tight, yo
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wheel bearing, if it changes tone when going one direction then the other
another good way to check if its the bearing is to jack the rear of the car up on the diff case, take one hand put it on top of the wheel, other hand on bottom, and try to move the wheel front to back, if you have any movement at all, bad wheel bearing
another good way to check if its the bearing is to jack the rear of the car up on the diff case, take one hand put it on top of the wheel, other hand on bottom, and try to move the wheel front to back, if you have any movement at all, bad wheel bearing
#3
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
Have you checked the front bearings in the same manner? I have a similar issue and I want to see if there are other possibilities. I'm gonna change out all my front bearings, etc. for the heck of it. It'll be a shame if the problem turns out to be something else or if it's a rear bearing.
#4
replaced rear bearing, it was fine on the way back from work and some driving around, had someone in the car with me and took a few turns and varied loads and speeds, I heard it. but without the person in the car, couldn't hear it.
front wheel bearings were replaced not too long ago and are still tight
noise still goes away under rear braking
I'm thinking the rear rotors were a little old and warped and the turning them may have made them too thin so when the heat up they candle handle the heat as well and make noise.
front wheel bearings were replaced not too long ago and are still tight
noise still goes away under rear braking
I'm thinking the rear rotors were a little old and warped and the turning them may have made them too thin so when the heat up they candle handle the heat as well and make noise.
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#10
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iTrader: (1)
Front hub torque not the same as rear!
Originally Posted by afgmoto1978
What are the torque specs for the front hud nut? I torqued it to 27 ft-lbs, just like the rears callout for. Is this right?
------------
(found this thread while searching for other stuff)
NO! Your front hub is too tight! It is supposed to be tightened to 14-22ft-lb, spin hub 2-3 times to seat the bearing, then LOOSENED until you can turn the nut by hand, then tightened a little until it takes about 1.5lb of force (using a spring scale) to turn the hub pulling on one of the studs. See FSM (links in my sig.)
What are the torque specs for the front hud nut? I torqued it to 27 ft-lbs, just like the rears callout for. Is this right?
------------
(found this thread while searching for other stuff)
NO! Your front hub is too tight! It is supposed to be tightened to 14-22ft-lb, spin hub 2-3 times to seat the bearing, then LOOSENED until you can turn the nut by hand, then tightened a little until it takes about 1.5lb of force (using a spring scale) to turn the hub pulling on one of the studs. See FSM (links in my sig.)
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