Is battery relocation needed for FMIC?
08-18-14, 08:52 AM
#1
Is battery relocation needed for FMIC?
Hey guys. So I'm in the middle of a project. I'm swapping a complete s4 to s5 interior while doing a complete dynamat with some audio wiring.
Anyway I plan on doing a front mount intercooler on the future and this got me thinking, should I relocate the battery to the back? I'm want to go with a pass. bin. Also are there specific kits for 2nd gen rx7s or do I just get one of those universal kits? Thanks.
Anyway I plan on doing a front mount intercooler on the future and this got me thinking, should I relocate the battery to the back? I'm want to go with a pass. bin. Also are there specific kits for 2nd gen rx7s or do I just get one of those universal kits? Thanks.
08-18-14, 09:23 AM
#2
Depending on how you route the intercooler piping, you might not need to relocate the battery. This is on a FD, but illustrates how you might go about it:
As far as battery relocation is concerned, I've never been too pleased with what a pre-made kit offers for its pricetag. If you visit your local welding store, you can get excellent quality welding cable for under $2/foot. Takes about 12 feet to go from the passenger side storage bin to the stock battery area. This will give you some extra so you can route and secure it nice and pretty along the bulkhead crossmember, under the driver's side carpet with the Body Harness, through the stock firewall grommet and along the frame rail.
The other bit of advice I'd strongly suggest is putting a Bus Bar under the hood to connect everything to. Having one for both positive and negative is a good idea too. Makes for convenient jumpstart points too.
One thing I am going to stress here is that if you do relocate your battery to the storage bin, do it right and build a proper box for it. Aaron Cake has an excellent one here: Project Tina, October 1, 2005: Engine Installation, POR-15 Undercoating, ECU Wiring and Battery Box Fabrication
Mine is modeled after Aaron Cake's, but with a couple adjustments made to fit a Group 48 battery which is about 1.5" longer than the stock battery and to bolt into the stock holes in the bulkhead crossmember and floor for the seat back and seat belts. Pics here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...888195/page13/
Last but not least, don't forget the circuit breaker. 150 amps is a good value for this.
As far as battery relocation is concerned, I've never been too pleased with what a pre-made kit offers for its pricetag. If you visit your local welding store, you can get excellent quality welding cable for under $2/foot. Takes about 12 feet to go from the passenger side storage bin to the stock battery area. This will give you some extra so you can route and secure it nice and pretty along the bulkhead crossmember, under the driver's side carpet with the Body Harness, through the stock firewall grommet and along the frame rail.
The other bit of advice I'd strongly suggest is putting a Bus Bar under the hood to connect everything to. Having one for both positive and negative is a good idea too. Makes for convenient jumpstart points too.
One thing I am going to stress here is that if you do relocate your battery to the storage bin, do it right and build a proper box for it. Aaron Cake has an excellent one here: Project Tina, October 1, 2005: Engine Installation, POR-15 Undercoating, ECU Wiring and Battery Box Fabrication
Mine is modeled after Aaron Cake's, but with a couple adjustments made to fit a Group 48 battery which is about 1.5" longer than the stock battery and to bolt into the stock holes in the bulkhead crossmember and floor for the seat back and seat belts. Pics here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...888195/page13/
Last but not least, don't forget the circuit breaker. 150 amps is a good value for this.
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08-21-14, 10:28 AM
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08-21-14, 02:25 PM
#10
On my build, I put this here instead:
The new electrical center is for anything additional to the car, includes two bus bars for jumpstart points and power distribution and houses all fo the fuses and relays for all circuits added to the car. It also 'balances' the turbo control solenoids on the other side quite nicely. Form AND Function FTW
08-21-14, 10:23 PM
#12
Yankle My Wankel
I agree and disagree with this, as this space is very useable when approached correctly. But at the same time, relocating the battery is a rather large task and if there's no need for it, might as well leave it in place.
On my build, I put this here instead:
The new electrical center is for anything additional to the car, includes two bus bars for jumpstart points and power distribution and houses all fo the fuses and relays for all circuits added to the car. It also 'balances' the turbo control solenoids on the other side quite nicely. Form AND Function FTW
On my build, I put this here instead:
The new electrical center is for anything additional to the car, includes two bus bars for jumpstart points and power distribution and houses all fo the fuses and relays for all circuits added to the car. It also 'balances' the turbo control solenoids on the other side quite nicely. Form AND Function FTW
08-22-14, 10:24 PM
#15
Speed Racer
I have old school trust setup in my fc. it runs to the passenger side so the battery is still in the engine bay. though it's a pain to get to some parts when you have a big pipe in the middle of your engine bay
08-28-14, 01:24 AM
#16
I agree and disagree with this, as this space is very useable when approached correctly. But at the same time, relocating the battery is a rather large task and if there's no need for it, might as well leave it in place.
On my build, I put this here instead:
The new electrical center is for anything additional to the car, includes two bus bars for jumpstart points and power distribution and houses all fo the fuses and relays for all circuits added to the car. It also 'balances' the turbo control solenoids on the other side quite nicely. Form AND Function FTW
On my build, I put this here instead:
The new electrical center is for anything additional to the car, includes two bus bars for jumpstart points and power distribution and houses all fo the fuses and relays for all circuits added to the car. It also 'balances' the turbo control solenoids on the other side quite nicely. Form AND Function FTW
08-28-14, 11:31 AM
#17
The air filter on the intercooler is a temporary measure which will be removed and placed on the Front Turbo inlet where the red filter currently is. It was to keep the engine from eating small animals untill I could get the Y-pipe cut & welded to the correct shape to mate with another section of IC plumbing to feel into the IC and close up the whole system.
08-30-14, 10:17 AM
#19
Engine, Not Motor
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If you move the battery to the storage bin (easy to do, it's an afternoon job if you purchase and don't fab the battery holder) then you can eliminate several feet of intercooler piping. And if you can fab up your own intercooler end tanks, you can eliminate another foot or more by bringing the pipes through the rad support.
09-03-14, 10:49 PM
#25
Necessary?
No.
Desirable?
Probably.
Were I to embark on such a project, the first thing I'd do is clear away as much space as possible to optimise the piping. Clearly, the battery sits in some prime real estate and moving it is simple, with no discernable downside, so why not do it?
TL;DR...
No, you don't HAVE to relocate the battery but why wouldn't you WANT to?
No.
Desirable?
Probably.
Were I to embark on such a project, the first thing I'd do is clear away as much space as possible to optimise the piping. Clearly, the battery sits in some prime real estate and moving it is simple, with no discernable downside, so why not do it?
TL;DR...
No, you don't HAVE to relocate the battery but why wouldn't you WANT to?