Battery Relocation
#27
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There is. They are called fuses.
Fuses blow and need to be replaced, breaker switches will kick off and can just be flipped back on rather than replaced.
We need them because there aren't 2 or 4 gauge wires bone stock that are of such excessive length. When you are relocating you will have some big wires running along the chassis. Namely the power wire is big and the chassis is a big ground. Just like RETed said. You DO NOT want a short, because it will cause alot of damage.
Fuses blow and need to be replaced, breaker switches will kick off and can just be flipped back on rather than replaced.
We need them because there aren't 2 or 4 gauge wires bone stock that are of such excessive length. When you are relocating you will have some big wires running along the chassis. Namely the power wire is big and the chassis is a big ground. Just like RETed said. You DO NOT want a short, because it will cause alot of damage.
#28
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oh alright, the fuses are what i was getting at, i should have just asked why the stock fuses wouldnt do the trick, thanks for taking the time to clear that up for me =)
#31
You really don’t need any circuit breakers. Two fuses will do just fine and will be much cheaper. If you are blowing fuses or tripping breakers there is something wrong.
Just remember that circuit breakers are nothing more than reset-able fuses. They are interchangeable. What you use in your setup is up to you.
It is kind of convenient to be able to flip a switch when working on the electrical system, as apposed to disconnecting the battery.
…and yes, whatever you use, you should have two of them.
I have a question though.
Does it matter what type of power wire we use?
A friend of mine said that the High-Strand-Count car audio power wire should not be used for battery relocation, and something with a lower stand count should be used instead. Is this true? Why?
Just remember that circuit breakers are nothing more than reset-able fuses. They are interchangeable. What you use in your setup is up to you.
It is kind of convenient to be able to flip a switch when working on the electrical system, as apposed to disconnecting the battery.
…and yes, whatever you use, you should have two of them.
I have a question though.
Does it matter what type of power wire we use?
A friend of mine said that the High-Strand-Count car audio power wire should not be used for battery relocation, and something with a lower stand count should be used instead. Is this true? Why?
#33
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I'm anchoring my battery to the bin floor with J-hooks. I had to drill 2 holes and cut off the lengthy J-hooks, but it worked.
I only have 1 breaker back by my battery. I had to run a Power and Ground up to my remote terminals in the engine bay. Power on the passenger side, ground on the drivers side. And then I hooked up the stock battery wires to the newly ran wires onto the terminals.
Everything is working great. I even took it to a dragstrip, and they didn't even check the inside of my car or under the hood. Ran a slow time though, think I lost a vaccuum hose.
I only have 1 breaker back by my battery. I had to run a Power and Ground up to my remote terminals in the engine bay. Power on the passenger side, ground on the drivers side. And then I hooked up the stock battery wires to the newly ran wires onto the terminals.
Everything is working great. I even took it to a dragstrip, and they didn't even check the inside of my car or under the hood. Ran a slow time though, think I lost a vaccuum hose.
#34
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Originally posted by jinx22630
How are you anchoring your battery to the floor of the storage bin? Did I miss that?
How are you anchoring your battery to the floor of the storage bin? Did I miss that?
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