Battery Relocation
#1
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Battery Relocation
I just ran the wires for my battery last night to the passenger side storage bin.
I ran the positive up to the original positive in the engine bay, and ran the ground to a bolt on the frame.
When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't start. Do any of the stock grounds in the front have to be directly connected to the battery? I was touching them to the frame, but the car had no juice.
I have remote terminals that I will be mounting in the engine bay where the battery tray is. That is why I wanted to keep the stock battery wires. Any suggestions , thoughts?
THX
I ran the positive up to the original positive in the engine bay, and ran the ground to a bolt on the frame.
When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't start. Do any of the stock grounds in the front have to be directly connected to the battery? I was touching them to the frame, but the car had no juice.
I have remote terminals that I will be mounting in the engine bay where the battery tray is. That is why I wanted to keep the stock battery wires. Any suggestions , thoughts?
THX
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I didn't actually bolt it to the frame, but I was touching a bolt on the frame with the ground.
I will try and bolt it down next time I'm in the garage.
Do I really need fuses and a kill switch for this setup? If I have it J-hooked down in the storage bin, and connected to the stock wiring, it should be fine right?
THX
I will try and bolt it down next time I'm in the garage.
Do I really need fuses and a kill switch for this setup? If I have it J-hooked down in the storage bin, and connected to the stock wiring, it should be fine right?
THX
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#9
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Originally posted by dr0x
Meh. Its cheap/easy to set it up right.
Meh. Its cheap/easy to set it up right.
I know it's common place for a drag strip.. But is it also the rule at a real race course?
I know a few guys who race and have a relocated battery.. With no external cutoff switch.. And I'm not talking about the mad tyte street racers either..
Last edited by Black13B; 10-03-03 at 07:15 PM.
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Would like to know too. I plan on going autocrossing with my car and maybe later, take it up to the tracks.
Going to re-do my interior soon so I might as well do a battery relocation too.
Going to re-do my interior soon so I might as well do a battery relocation too.
#12
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Let's try this...
http://www.geocities.com/reted_2000/battrelo.jpg
You'll need to cut&paste since Geoshitties is an *** about redirects. :P
-Ted
http://www.geocities.com/reted_2000/battrelo.jpg
You'll need to cut&paste since Geoshitties is an *** about redirects. :P
-Ted
#13
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RETed, I only got to go to your old FC site a few times. I think I'm going to have to search the whole Forum and read every post you've ever made. And I don't just mean to check your avatars.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#14
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I'm working on getting the site back up, but it's tedious cause I gotta redo all the hard links. :P On top of helping hIGGI with all the FC work, I don't have too much time, but I think I'll get a lot done this weekend, since we got some downtime from the shop right now.
I've got ideas on new additions to the website, which consists of SAE info which is very technical, but very interesting reading - I haven't seen info like this posted anywhere...
Be patient!
-Ted
I've got ideas on new additions to the website, which consists of SAE info which is very technical, but very interesting reading - I haven't seen info like this posted anywhere...
Be patient!
-Ted
#15
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Originally posted by RETed
Be patient!
-Ted
Be patient!
-Ted
Ted, where can you get a breaker switch that big? Or at least, what brand do you recommend? I've never really shopped around for 150A breakers..
Also, I would think that it would be better to go with something like a 200A breaker switch if you are running a few extra loads such as an electric fan.. ?
What do you recommend?
#16
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Parts Express carries 150A Phoenix Gold ones.
We've used the 100A ones which are readily available, but they seem to trip when we cranked the starter too many time - we were doing this to try and get a Haltech car to start.  On normal daily use, the 100A ones shouldn't trip though...
Whoops, looks like Phoenix Gold redid their CB ratings...they have a 140A and a 200A now.
200A one:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6274&DID=7
140A one:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6272&DID=7
Catalog page with entire listing, in PDF format:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/catalog03/293pec02.pdf?
Notice, the pics for the individual pages are WRONG - they show the 100A version, but the parts description and part numbers are correct.
Also, there is no price difference between all three (including the 100A one) CB's, so order the highest (200A) ones.
Oh yeah, one other thing...I am a real happy customer of Parts Express.  Everything I have ordered has been straight-forward, and they one time they screwed up an order (for rechargable batteries), they fixed it by telling me to keep the wrong parts and shipping the correct ones overnight!  Great customer service!  I've spent thousands of dollars from them - if you peruse their catalog, you'll understand why...
Good luck!
-Ted
We've used the 100A ones which are readily available, but they seem to trip when we cranked the starter too many time - we were doing this to try and get a Haltech car to start.  On normal daily use, the 100A ones shouldn't trip though...
Whoops, looks like Phoenix Gold redid their CB ratings...they have a 140A and a 200A now.
200A one:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6274&DID=7
140A one:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6272&DID=7
Catalog page with entire listing, in PDF format:  http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/catalog03/293pec02.pdf?
Notice, the pics for the individual pages are WRONG - they show the 100A version, but the parts description and part numbers are correct.
Also, there is no price difference between all three (including the 100A one) CB's, so order the highest (200A) ones.
Oh yeah, one other thing...I am a real happy customer of Parts Express.  Everything I have ordered has been straight-forward, and they one time they screwed up an order (for rechargable batteries), they fixed it by telling me to keep the wrong parts and shipping the correct ones overnight!  Great customer service!  I've spent thousands of dollars from them - if you peruse their catalog, you'll understand why...
Good luck!
-Ted
#18
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Originally posted by silverrotor
This Is when someone posts the pictorial diagram RETed had on his former site>
This Is when someone posts the pictorial diagram RETed had on his former site>
Excellent. I have one noob question. For my efan, Ignition Box etc - for clean appearance sake and preferably to not run all the wires all the way back to the rear, what did you do to have the given wires hooked up? Did you have It spliced Inline? An adapter midway, maybe In the Engine Bay? I've been wanting to do this for awhile now and these questions afirm my go!
#19
Originally posted by Black13B
What do you recommend?
What do you recommend?
#20
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Originally posted by silverrotor
Excellent. I have one noob question. For my efan, Ignition Box etc - for clean appearance sake and preferably to not run all the wires all the way back to the rear, what did you do to have the given wires hooked up? Did you have It spliced Inline? An adapter midway, maybe In the Engine Bay? I've been wanting to do this for awhile now and these questions afirm my go!
Excellent. I have one noob question. For my efan, Ignition Box etc - for clean appearance sake and preferably to not run all the wires all the way back to the rear, what did you do to have the given wires hooked up? Did you have It spliced Inline? An adapter midway, maybe In the Engine Bay? I've been wanting to do this for awhile now and these questions afirm my go!
Now, the circuit breakers have 1/4" studs on them, and I connect smaller amperafe circuits straight to them - like the Crane HI-6 - with very little fuss.  Crimp on a 1/4" ring terminal, and it'll go right under the nut.
-Ted
#21
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Originally posted by Black13B
So I guess from your experience the 150A is plenty, then?
Thanks Ted. Much Appreciated.
So I guess from your experience the 150A is plenty, then?
Thanks Ted. Much Appreciated.
Back to the 100A tripping...we were trying to get a Haltech car started, and it took at least 10 attempts of cranking at least 10 seconds each to trip the 100A circuit breaker.  Now, under ordinary circumstances, this should not happen.  I still would recommend the 100A units, if you're not going to go through this much electrical stress...
-Ted
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Originally posted by liquidferrum
i know this may sound dumb...but why do you need a breaker?
i know this may sound dumb...but why do you need a breaker?