Bang for the buck rear sway bar
#2
Many do not run a rear sway bar at all, especially IT - Racing RX-7's, I always felt my Racing beat rear was a waste of money.
You could just make some adjustable end links for your stock rear and be done with it. Very cheap this way and to be honest more rear sway then you will need.
You could just make some adjustable end links for your stock rear and be done with it. Very cheap this way and to be honest more rear sway then you will need.
#3
I think Eibach is the only one to make an adjustable rear swaybar, but you can only buy it in a kit with the front. That said, it wouldn't be too hard to make some adjustable ends for a sway bar (I'm not talking endlinks), cut the ends of the sway bar and weld the new ends on it with several adjustment holes. I've thought of doing this on my car several times, but never got around to it. I too have an RB rear bar, but it's not on the car any more, I swapped it back out for the stock bar when I installed my coilovers and haven't looked back. Eventually I'll probably get rid of it altogether.
#4
Thread Starter
male stripper
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 1
From: St Petersburg, FL
Jim, I'm looking to get some cheap, easy oversteer into the car and I don't have the $$ to throw on coilovers yet. I'm not really sure what change the endlinks would do to dial in adjustable oversteer. I knew IT7 guys would remove their rear bars, but I didn't realize the ITS guys were doing it as well. I actually had the machine shop at my old job years ago drill two holes up the blade on the stock bar to shorten the lever arm. It still has way too much understeer for me. On my '06 Outback I run a 24mm adjustable Perrin in the rear to the 19mm in the front. It still has a slight understeer tendency even with a rear toe-out of .3* and the bar set to the hardest setting. However, it still feels more like a sportscar than the 7 when tossing it around in the corners. Other then throttle mashing oversteer, the 7 behaves too much like a fwd for me and I've almost understeered into a few curbs after coming out of the Outback. I'm not trying to lay down top times at the track, mind you. I just want a tossable, rally style handling car at the moment. That should be easily achievable for ~$150.
Black, Eibach is the best one I found for size and adjustability. I found a site that is actually selling them separate as well as the kit.
Black, Eibach is the best one I found for size and adjustability. I found a site that is actually selling them separate as well as the kit.
Trending Topics
#8
I forgot, you can get a Whiteline adjustable rear fromm Australia, but it may be difficult to find a dealer, take a while to get and be expensive. There may be some Japanese companies that make them, but again, hard to find, long to get and expensive.
#9
Driving RX7's since 1979
iTrader: (43)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 9
From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Vert front and rear sway bars are thicker than TII's, which suggests they are stiffer. Mazda did all sorts of extra things to Vert to stiffen them up to compensate for the top being chopped off. Thus their motivation behind vert swaybars.
#10
Like the other replies have suggested, I find I have plenty of oversteer available with the loud pedal - I swapped out the 14mm rear bar my Sport model came with, in favour of a 12mm bar off a base car in fact, to make it more predictable on the track.
Coilovers won't affect handling balance per se unless you go for stiffer rear springs than fronts, but that's a function of spring rate, not the coilovers, and harder to swap than a sway.
More front neg camber would likely help keep the front planted, making it easier to break the rear. A couple sets of camber bolts would probably run you $30 or so to max the front neg camber, assuming you've already maxed out the available camber and castor adjustment in the front upper mounts.
Replacing the rear DTSS bushings with solid (DTSS eliminator) bushings would make the rear a lot easier to control at the limit, which might help, since they give more of a progression to oversteer, and more driver sense of where the limit is. DTSS tries to prevent oversteer, but I found in track-driving it made the limit hard to find (a common complaint about these cars), and was prone to snap-oversteer when the limit of grip was exceeded.
Coilovers won't affect handling balance per se unless you go for stiffer rear springs than fronts, but that's a function of spring rate, not the coilovers, and harder to swap than a sway.
More front neg camber would likely help keep the front planted, making it easier to break the rear. A couple sets of camber bolts would probably run you $30 or so to max the front neg camber, assuming you've already maxed out the available camber and castor adjustment in the front upper mounts.
Replacing the rear DTSS bushings with solid (DTSS eliminator) bushings would make the rear a lot easier to control at the limit, which might help, since they give more of a progression to oversteer, and more driver sense of where the limit is. DTSS tries to prevent oversteer, but I found in track-driving it made the limit hard to find (a common complaint about these cars), and was prone to snap-oversteer when the limit of grip was exceeded.
#11
That's not what the FSM says. For the S5 anyway, it says the vert is the same as the non-Sport suspension, so a 12mm rear bar (14mm for the "sport" models) and the same front bar for all S5's (24mm). With an S4, they all got 13mm rears and either a 22mm or a 24mm front sway.
#12
Softer rear bar on verts makes more sense to my mind anyway; a more flexible chassis is not a good candidate for stiffer suspension, and an anti-roll bar is just a way of adding spring rate when there is side-to-side weight transfer (cornering ). Stiffer suspension just twists a willowy chassis more, forcing compliance out of the chassis if it's not in the suspension.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
need RX7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
11
08-19-15 09:27 AM