Rx-7fetish

Per fsm, unplug to check that rpms drop, unplugged it, nothing happened. To test check voltage, dandy my voltmeter is 60 miles away in my dads trunk. Also says to apply 12v and ground to the valve and listen for a click. It does click, now my question is, can it be bad and not read proper voltage but still click? I need to chase down some bugs which is kinda hard without my voltmeter. Trying to figure out if I can rule this out or not. Grounds are good, first thing I always check, I'm not looking for suggestions on what to check for my bugs, just curious about the bacv condition. Thanks guys!

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

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satch

iTrader: (1)

If the car is idling properly w/o load and you disconnect the plug there should not really be any change in rpm as the change should occur if there is "load on the car" such as the A/C being on when pulling the plug. This is a much better test of the BAC as the car should bog down and want to stall out if not die out.

Rx-7fetish

If the car is running and warmed up, and I cut the heater blower on the rpms drop a bit, and stay there. When I unplug the bac nothing happens, and I'm waiting for my voltmeter to come home in about 3 days. But until then I was curious if anyone had an answer to my question.

Rx-7fetish

And the dot was underly useless. I can sit and do nothing for 3 days or see what I can do with what I have while I wait.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

"Underly" is not a word.

Why don't you take care of the things that do not involve tools that you do not have?

satch

iTrader: (1)

But did you pull the plug while the heater was going full force or the A/C running? Cutting the heater blower first and then unplugging the BAC doesn't really test anything of value.

Rx-7fetish

I'm on my phone, it auto corrected utterly for whatever reason. And yes. I did leave the blower motor full blast and checked. Assume i have common sense. There's nothing to really fix that doesn't involve the meter, but this said to check the valve to connect a constant 12v and a ground to the valve, and listen for a click. My question is if it's bad will it still click. If no then I know I have a short, check valve off list. If yes then it's still the main culprit when I get my meter back.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You stated, "and I cut the heater blower on the rpms drop a bit, and stay there. When I unplug the bac nothing happens,"

This tells me you cut the blower first and then unplugged the BAC. Does it not? I was more than willing to give you some advice, but if you're more apt to get pissy then forget it.

Rx-7fetish

Not pissy with you sorry man, the dot got me, and I should have better punctuated that, I cut the blower on, rpms drop but the valve doesn't correct and pull them back up. When I unplug the valve with the blower still on with lower rpms absolutely nothing happens rpm remains the same. Which would tell me bad valve, BUT per fsm I applied voltage to the valve, it clicked like I was supposed to listen for. What I want to know is if it's bad will it still click?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ECU controls what level the BAC is used to maintain a proper idle so it can click when tested, but that in itself doesn't mean it is being sent the proper signal depending on the situation at hand. If either of the two pins in the BAC plug are pulled back then it could render the solenoid rather useless. So with this in mind you need to check the pin position of the plug. If you had a multimeter w/duty cycle that would be able to tell you something as well. And if you measure the voltage at the ECU pin relating to the BAC (pin 2G) it would also tell you something. During start up the voltage on the ECU's BAC pin should drop by a large amount down to about two to three volts if I remember correctly. Also, the voltage at this ECU pin would drop if the A/C was turned on while idling. If it were to do these things then you should focus on the BAC plug pins at the BAC unit so as to make sure they are indeed not pulled back.

And I believe you used the word "cut" when you actualy meant to use "put" instead. In doing so it led to a fair amount of confusion.

HAILERS2

IF the rpms are over 800 rpm and you unplugg the BAC...........most likely no change in rpm will be noted.

The BAC has one wire with batt voltage. That's the black/white wire. What controlls the BAC is the OTHER wire which goes to a transistor inside the ECU.

IF in the long run you find that the other wire isn't doing its duty..................that transistor inside the ECU can be replaced with one from radio shack for ??? five bucks or less. Must have minimal soldering skills to fix IF that is the case.

IF the plug is unplugged on the BAC, and the rpms to begin with were ......say 700 or less rpm, and the rpms did not drop, I"d say the transistor is shot inside the ECU.

BLACK/WHITE supplys the power..........other wire via the ECU transistor governs the duty cycle.

IF you had a meter that ALSO had the duty cycle function you could look at the wire at the ECU with that meter on duty cycle and see if it's doing what BACs do in life. Actually just using the meter on DC VOLTS and backstabbing the BAC wire at the ECU could give you a hint. IF working the volts should drop at the wire at the ECU when you turn the heater fan on. I used to do that but forgot the dcvolts involved and amount of voltage drop.

Or in some or most cases you can unbolt the BAC and connec the plug. Engine off of course. MOst times if the engine is warmed up the BAC will vibrate and you can see that when looking inside the BAC. NEVER pry on the guts of a BAC. Just touching the guts with a finger and you 'd feel the vibration althought you don't have to touch it. I can hear/see it vibrate.

ALSO look inside the elect plug that goes on the BAC. See if one of the pins inside is PUSHED BACK and not making contact. That would cause your problem.

Rx-7fetish

Sweet thanks guys and I will have my meter back soon, I have a habit of calling my multimeter a voltmeter, I DO have a multimeter. And sorry about punctuation, I should have added a comma, it said I cut the heater blower on, the rpms drop. But anyways, I have an extra bac, I'll try plugging it in seperate from the car and see if it's the plug or not (assuming this valve is good)