So true. i'm still playing with it. Pre-turbo/swap i'm trying to keep my car as simple as possible b/c it's going to be daily driven. I'd go carb but that's money and a step in a direction i'd rather not take. Thank you for understanding i wasn't being all snob serious in my post. Good man.

 

you know i downloaded that section of the fsm because i LOVE IT!
seriously wiring is so much easier than mechanical , but anyways im gonna hit up a local yard and ****** an injector clip off some relic

 

the bac , no pistons , really only controls idle under load of electrical types ie ac ps or even braking , on n/a's that is on a turb thats a lil different. Yah dont worry I already learned barking back starts pissing contests and then i end up with infractions

 

Acutally the ECU isn't the major player. There is a thing called the cooling fan control unit and there is a jpg of it in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=engine+fail

It has MOTOR FAIL written on it's plastic face. Read the last two posts on the thread I attached just now. It explains some things.

EDIT: Actually I might be wrong. If that fan sub relay (and electrical fan relay) exists, then the fan should come on when the ECU puts a gnd on that subrelay.............well at least the electrical fan relay would have to exist 'cause cars that have the elect fan but no a/c don't have the subrelay. Something like that.

 

In a circuit that makes much more sense , thoug maybe the control module tells the ecu the temps or something similar ,kinda funny motor fail , wonder why your fan wasnt turning on?

 

oh hailers could you do me a fav and test the resistance on the n332 bac compared the the n326? i would but i dont have the n332

 

BAC resistance values are the same for turbo or non turbo cars. It's mentioned in the fuel and emissions section of each FSM. BAC rarely fail due to a fried coil. Most BAC fail due to either the connector to the BAC not making good contact or a failed BAC transistor inside the ECU that is fried because someone touched both wires of the BAC together for more than a moment or so. Radio Shack carrys those transistors at approx a buck to three bucks. Cheap. A TIP120 NPN or some like name I got off a thread on FC3S yrs ago. Did this on one of my cars yrs ago. Fairly easy. I need to do it again on one of the turbo cars 'cause I got reeeeeal careless and fried that one due to lazyness/carelessness.

A quick check of telling if the transistor is good............plug the new/spare BAC to the harness. Pull the trigger wire off the starter..........HOLD the key to START. The BACs piston should move to open and stay there as long as the key is HELD to START.

Or if you connect it to the harness and put the key to ON.......and see the guts of the BAC vibrate.......it's good. Never pry on the internals of the BAC.

 

If the thermowax is removed and all coolant ports for it blocked off, do i need the coolant ports at the bac ? Also the coolant extension on the side of the bac can be removed right?

 

No you would not need the coolant running along side the BAC and could remove that water tube.

Personally I'd never remove my thermowax. No gain to do so, only loss of driveability when cold.