bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone , just a quick number question , originally there was no bacv on my 87 tii which is comprised of s4 n332 ecu , s5 block turbo and exhaust manifolds with s4 harness and uim and lim . so i bought a used one that doesnt plug and play as in the clip and correct wires (I have redone all the harness' up front ) does not plug in. So I wonder what numbers should be on the proper bacv , or better yet which bacv i should use with this setup , current one is numbered n326. thanks

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I got an n/a one not adjustable

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The JDM ones (which are for turbo engines) are also not adjustable.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

are the usdm clips between s4 and s5 the same? this clip is similar to the injector clip see pic , btw i removed coolant line it is not missing.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

so no one has a bacv on a tii i take it , atleast none they want to look at

HAILERS

Naw. When I finish this steak and take a well deserved nap, I might take a look. Probably N332 on it.

I don't understand the problem with the elect connector. I'm fairly sure at times I've taken a non turbo N326 and attached it to the turbo harness. Maybe their "keyed" differently. I didn't notice that though. Might be though.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Question, why do people care about this thing?

I ripped mine out. Car WOULD not idle at all at start up. What did i do? Adjusted my throttle cable until i idled at 900-1000 rpm. Hot, cold, w/e. It idles at that rpm. it's not hooked up to the exhaust/pvc system at all soooooo I mean......why bother?

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

1000 is not an idle its under partial throttle at that point

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I run a haltech standalone and I'll be damned if I DON'T use this thing. I will drive my car in the winter, and rather than have it struggle to idle cold and then warm up to 1400RPM, I use the BAC. It allows me to bump my cold idle (warm up car a bit faster too) to whatever I want, and maintain a nice 900RPM idle at operating temps. FYI I dremeled off the offset "key" on the BAC so I could attach a generic injector clip.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

no not keyed different comlpetely different female connector could be just another f up by the previous owner . the clip is identical to the right one in this pic (but not this one

HAILERS

Sorry, but the BAC's elect plug does not look like the two in your picture. It looks very similar to a fuel injector elect plug and that elect plug will have a slot in it offset to one side that will mate with the male key on the BAC's elect jack.

I knew I forgot to do something yesterday after my nap. I'll go look at the number on my BAC in a few.

The turboii BAC will have and adjustment screw and the air inlet on it will have a tube that is different than the one on your non turbo BAC. Later.

I stole the jpg attached off MAZDATRIX site. I point in the jpg at the air inlet pipe. That pipe is truned 180* out from what is seen there, on a Turbo BAC. In other words the pipe should be pointing towards the other end of the BAC body. Plus there will be a air mixture screw in the side of the valve down inside the boss on it. On a non turbo there is no screw in the boss and the boss is blank (gee, for some reason I just thought of work!). Later. I do not have a number on the BAC I just looked at and need to look at the other car. Later.

Look at your BAC elect plugs two wires. One should be BLACK/WHITE and the other Blue with a Green stripe. If yours does not look that way .....do not put it on the BAC and go find the right wires/plug.

Also the online parts fische would show the number for the BAC and I'm sure it's N332, although I did not look at the fische.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

nope my wires are correct all the way to the ecu , i have the ecu harness completed , even the clip is wired that way here are some pics, Btw i Pm'd you and posted about another clip last pic

HAILERS

All three BAC I have the numbers are rubbed off them. The three jpg are of a spare BAC I have......don't even ask, I never sell anything.

The N332 series four BAC TURBOII should look like the jpgs attached. Pay attention to the TWO tabs on the electrical plug. A fuel injector plug will fit this BAC, even if you have to file down the outer tab. Never done that myself.

HAILERS

I'm on record as never looking at or reading pm's. Never will. Don't take it personal. Been that way for yrs.

Do the colors on your BAC two wires match what I wrote earlier????

In your last jpg, what are the colors of the wires? Two wires?????? or? Can you take a closer jpg??????????? Shouldn't be that hard to figure out.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

So basically the difference from na/turbo bac's are the opposite direction on the air inlet and the adjustment screw? If so could i essentially make this work the same way the jdm bac does without the adjustment?

HAILERS

I don't understand your BAC elect plug in the jpg. It just does not look like it would work. Go look at my jpg of the BAC's jack and you can see that item you have ain't a gonna cut the mustard. I don't know what to say other than that. I KNOW my jpg is of a TURBOII series four BAC with no doubts at all. Your white plug almost looks like the plug on a CAS ...although I know it is not that.

HAILERS

I was thinking of that. I have a N326 that I sprayed some penetrant lube on a couple of post ago. I'm sure it's a press fit item and there is a chance that if it's put in a vice that I can muscle it around to face the right direction. Electrically it should work just fine and dandy, but the lack of adjustment makes it a redheaded step child.

Can you answer the questions I posted in my last post??

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

no i agree i was wondering if the na was a different clip i dont understand it either . by the way dont try to muscle it til you remove the t15 anchor it ha other wise the pipe will either cut or break

as you can see i just changed the direction of the air inlet , also my bac is nearly identical to an injector clip , my problem is i only have four injector clips

edit; could you check what f74 plugs into on your car note it is pic 3 in post 12 of this thread

HAILERS

The jpgs attached show a N326's tube being turned around 180*. I sprayed WD40 around the shaft and waited maybe thirty minutes. Then a small pipe wrench and hammer to tap with and walla. Done and finished.

I recommend duct tape b/t the pipe and the wrench. My bad there. No harm was done though. And after the first jpg, I could have turned the pipe without the hammer.

HAILERS

Wrote the above before reading your post about turning the pipe. Errrr........whats a T15 and what did I break??? Did not feel anything strange when I turned it. Oh well.

I'll check the elect plug nowfor the front of the car.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

t15 is that star screw right on the inside of that bac , if you took the air inlet off you would notice for 1 it wont come out because that screw anchors it , and now it is cut the same way you would cut copper pipe, if you turn it another 180 the inlet will fall or wiggle out leaving a chunk inside the bac

HAILERS

F74 is the electric cooling fan motor that sits in front of the radiator on series four TURBOII. I shoulda recognized that earlier.


EDIT: ooops, I seemed to have step in it. I somehow did not see that screw that is right there staring me in the face. No worry though. I tried to turn that pipe by hand and it won't budge so it's still serviceable imho plus it's a ..........spare.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

any idea what that regulates off , I mean which temp sensor is supposed to actuate it?

HAILERS

207*F as said in the section of the FSM called COOLING SYSTEM. The water temp switch on top of the thermostat housing opens at that temp. That switch should be closed at 194* and below.

Water temp switch has a sinle green/black wire going to it and that wire should be in your harness whether or not you have the temp switch in the thermostat housing.

See the jpg of the cooling fan system I attached a couple of threads ago plus read the COOLING SYSTEM section of the FSM.

There are a couple of parts like the cooing fan control unit and cooling fan relay that you might/might not have to make it work. Cooling fan unit is located in the right foot well way up high and far right against the wall.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

never mind that post i just realized the ground prolly turns it on after ecu senses its temp is right it cuts the positive or vice versa