johnnyt

i searched and couldnt really find a striaght answer, would a back bac valve keep the car from starting, or cause the car to shut off will driving??

HAILERS

No, not really.

On starting, the BAC goes full open and stays full open IF the key is HELD to START. Once the key is returned to ON, it will then start it's normal duty cycle. Something like 120hz give or take.

Driving it should not effect the engine and can't cause a engine to die while driving.

johnnyt

alright cause when i try to start it is locked shut and wont budge. when i try to start it turns but never starts. im gettin fuel so i figured it was spark so i changed the plugs and still nothing. im stuck.

HAILERS

Bad *** flooded maybe? THEY recommend removing the EGI fuses and then spinning the starter for ten seconds or so to TRY to clear the excess fuel out. The reinstall the fuses and try again. Try with a FULLY charged battery. A low batt might not do the job.

I guess you mean the BAC was LOCKED SHUT in you reply above. Right????

johnnyt

correct the back is locked. i tried the deflooding and still no start, also tried with a fresh battery and nothing. i also checked the afm, checked for vacumm leaks i found nothing. question though, is the car supposed to be in vacumm when the car is cranking or no?

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

no the car won't have any significant vacume when starting.

johnnyt

thats what i thought just checking. thanks

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

when you are de-flooding with the fuses out holding the throttle down will help clear the fuel.

maybe your timing is way off?

HAILERS

So. You were driving the car and it shut off? Is that the problem? And you can't get it to start anymore?

I might be able to help if you have a digital meter.

johnnyt

That is the problem and i do have a digital meter

katkaroto

i'm having almost the same issue... i replaced my bac vavle and it still stalls, i tightened my throttle cable to avoid the low idle to stall. so it revs at 1000 and drops back to a nice 700 rpm. i believe its my timing that's affecting my engine...

since i took it to a mechanic would helped fixed my front cover oil leak. the mechanics and i tried taking the CAS out but its stuck on good. any ideas to help loosen the CAS without damaging it or taking of the front cover again? well, they couldnt take it off so they took it off with the front cover. and i have yet to ask them if they aligned the CAS before putting it in.

anywho... my car starts fine cold but it wont start after i turn it off. i probably have to wait an hour or so before i can start it again. otherwise i need someone to help jump start my car. i know my engine isnt blown but i have my doubts to the 115K miles or so on it... i know it still runs strong when i get it going.

well... can anyone diagnose these symptoms.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

I would start looking fo some F'd up wires, something shorting. Also you said you changed the spark plugs but have you seen them spark?

HAILERS

The LEAD coil assy has a small, white, two wire plug going to it. Pull it apart. Find the black/yellow wire and put your meter on it and find a good gnd for the meter. With the key to ON, the meter should read battery voltage. Don't mess with the other wire in that small, white, two wire plug.

That's as good a place to start out as any. Just checking to see if you have power TO the coil assy.

SCARY TIME: One thing that will make a car stop running while driving, is if a apex seal just gives up the ship. Now your on one rotor and if the engine speed isn't very high, the car will die. Might start on one rotor later, but if the engine is worn out it might not. Like I said, just trying to scare you.

You have any spare engine parts laying around? Like a spare CAS?