bac/idle adjustment s4 t2
#1
Iron Man
Thread Starter
bac/idle adjustment s4 t2
I have done research and can't seem to figure out how to adjust my idle. Car is freshly streetported and I'm just trying to get it to idle around 1300. I thought I knew what I was doing adjusting the throttle and then fine tuning with the bac but I just made it worse and now it will idle up to like 1700 than even itself out at 13-14 but whenever I push in the clutch after moving it idles up to 2k. The car is in break in still and I can't run any boost but when I shift into 2nd my rpms are to high causing it to boost. I'm sure it is just my idle/throttle needs adjusted but I'm clueless on how to do it. I feel like its because I was messing with it and didn't know what I was doing and just threw it out of whack. Can anyone help me out.
#6
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
The bottom of this page will help you, also provides visuals. Have you checked other related parameters such as CAS, timing, and TPS? Last week I went over all that stuff to finally get a solid idle. Once you properly adjust all those things, you should be able to set your idle as you like. Also, do you reference the FSM? It's all over the web for free and is a valuable asset which will definitely help you with all the adjustments I referenced.
The bottom of this page will help you, also provides visuals. Have you checked other related parameters such as CAS, timing, and TPS? Last week I went over all that stuff to finally get a solid idle. Once you properly adjust all those things, you should be able to set your idle as you like. Also, do you reference the FSM? It's all over the web for free and is a valuable asset which will definitely help you with all the adjustments I referenced.
#7
Iron Man
Thread Starter
Just tested the tps and it was 1.7kohms at a still and it only goes to 3.6 at WOT isn't that too low?? It says that it should be 1k at idle and 5-6k at WOT. Is this what is causing my idle to be bouncy and rev up when I push the clutch in?
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#11
Iron Man
Thread Starter
Hey I was working on her the other day and I set the tps to 1 ohm at idle while it was warm. It seemed to have made it a little better and once I have it warmed up it will hold idle around 1k which is kinda a miracle but, when it is cold and when I first start it, it refuses to idle. I have to manualley work the throttle to warm it up , but after I do that it idles good? I'm gonna retest the tps again and work with the bac but why will it not idle when its cold? Can anyone help me???
#12
Hey I was working on her the other day and I set the tps to 1 ohm at idle while it was warm. It seemed to have made it a little better and once I have it warmed up it will hold idle around 1k which is kinda a miracle but, when it is cold and when I first start it, it refuses to idle. I have to manualley work the throttle to warm it up , but after I do that it idles good? I'm gonna retest the tps again and work with the bac but why will it not idle when its cold? Can anyone help me???
#13
Iron Man
Thread Starter
Are you talking about the subzero starting tank? The little tank that was sitting by the charcoal canister and cruise control? I was told that it was pointless and it had no fluid so I removed it. The throttle body doesn't look modified. Do you think that maybe my throttle cable is sticking? There is rust in some spots but I can't see how that would cause it to not idle when cold.
#14
Iron Man
Thread Starter
#19
Iron Man
Thread Starter
pops and backfires when i give it gas while rolling but after i get to 4-5k rpms its smooth as hell and sounds great. the engine was streetported with a rebuilt turbo and thats it everything else is stock, fuel, ecu, ect. i plan to get a haltech ecu and tune it once i get the money. do you think that this would solve my problem if i tuned it? sounds like the air/fuel is wack.
#20
Senior Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Stop driving it... Street port with stock fueling and no wideband is asking for trouble exp if it has after market exhaust and intake. Get a wideband, a fuel pump and a way to control fuel (Megasquirt, power fc, etc....)
#21
Iron Man
Thread Starter
I was planning on getting all that but wouldn't it be a good idea to break in my engine first? Its got about 700 miles on it.
#22
Senior Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Yes it would be a good idea to break in your engine, with the right parts to go along with the build. A street port, pending on how large, can make it go lean under boost. And if it creeps beyond 10ish with a fuel cut defender, the ecu dosent have enough fuel to keep everything happy.
#23
Iron Man
Thread Starter
Yes it would be a good idea to break in your engine, with the right parts to go along with the build. A street port, pending on how large, can make it go lean under boost. And if it creeps beyond 10ish with a fuel cut defender, the ecu dosent have enough fuel to keep everything happy.
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