redstreak

Just wondering what all the racers are running on their cars for suspensions? I just started solo racing and I am in despirate need of a new suspension.

I'm thinking of going with Tokico Illumina's and using the stock springs. And getting rid of that nasty DTSS. What has everyone else tried?

r0gu3

I am going to be running R2 springs and shocks with front and rear strut tower bars. That is of course when I get my new car ...
-r0gu3

Silkworm

That question depends on what CLASS you plan to run in.

PauLC

easy p-cheesy

Depends on what class you're wanting. If you want to stay in Stock class, get new performance shocks, and get new stock springs. If you're wanting Street Prepared, performance shocks, and springs, or coilovers. One thing that I'm not sure on is camber plates. I might have read somewhere that to stay in SP you need to use stock mounting perches, but I don't remember if/where I read it.

When I get my turbo II running, I'm going to install my K2RD coilovers, camber plates, and rear camber link, KYB AGX adj. shocks, as well as DTSS eliminator bushings (RB). Since that will push me into SP, or even full on prepared (hope not...) I might get some light weight wheels. I'm not too competative in it, so I decided not to let moving up in class keep me from doing a modification that I want. But I still don't want to make a complete fool out of myself.

Get some good high performance street tires, or racing tires, depending on your budget/commitment to SoloII.

One thing that should help is a front strut tower brace. As I remember, you can run one in Stock class. If you go up from there, then you could add a rear one, or more. If you don't have a front strut brace yet, I'd suggest looking into it. Don't always go for the cheapest one, because I've heard that a few have problems rubbing the hood and/or alternator.

hope I've been of some help.

Ziggy682

If I've read the rules correctly, you can't have a strut tower bar in SCCA Stock Solo II. I believe it bumps you up into Street Prepared. However, you can run them in Street Touring, but you can't run an RX-7 in that class so I guess it doesn't really matter. If I'm mistaken someone please correct me. I always end up taking my strut tower bar off to autocross in the stock class.

Orange!FD

I think you're reading the rules correctly. (I was just reading the rules, trying to figure out if the shock-tower bar I just put on my FD is legal. Seems it is, because it's "just like" the Mazda part that's included in the R1 option package.)

telus.net

Can I you a question Restreak?
I am going to run TOkico with stock springs also. I am wondering how is your handling? Are you stock springs still in good shape after all these years?

Also, front tower bar and rear tower bar is essential for auto xing. Most importantly, have your Tokico adjusted to the setting you prefer. One thing that helps the most for auto crossers is a rear sway bar. They drastically reduce understeer.

BhamBill

The only problem is that none of that is legal in stock. In SP the rear sway bar, camber plates, and front tower bar can be added. The way I've read the rules the rear tower bar is illegal in SP too. However, you can run any size wheel and tire. They don't have to be inside the wheel well. I can be competitive locally, but get toasted in Seattle.

Scott 89t2

you just have to watch out cause there are slight diffs between scca (usa) and cacc (canada) rules so not everything listed may be 100% correct for you.

I think you are allowed 1 point in stock class. so one strut bar, or one sway bar, etc could be added. as well as any shocks.

FPrep2ndGenRX7

The most important thing when you first begin autocrossing is seat time, seat time, seat time. All those go fast goodies are useless if you can't drive. Definetly get a rule book so you can see what changes are allowed depending on what class your interested in.

redstreak

Well, I have been to 1 race and did decent. But my suspension is shot and my rear tires after checking today are gone. So I am going to go and buy some new tires and get the bolt that broke off in my hub re-tapped so I can reconnect my sway bar. And if I remember correctly since I don't have any cats I am placed in C Super Stock (I think that's what it was called). I don't really know how bad the springs are, it's hard to tell because my shocks are so bad. How do the springs on these cars usually stand up? The car has 243K on it. As for what class I run in, I'm not too concerned I bought the car to have fun and I don't want competitiveness get in the way of having fun.

If there is anyone here reading this that is running Tokico Illumina's how is the ride on the softest setting?

ALTurbo2

To reiterate I would try to stay in the class in which you are currently placed. Do you what you need to do to fix your car, but learn to drive it before you make too many changes. Being a veteran of only two solo sundays, I've realized I have much to learn about driving my car at it's current limit before relying on mods to improve my lap times.

Cwaters

I think you'll find the Illuminas to your liking. You can use the stock springs unless you have a noticable sag at one or more corners.
If you ARE bumped up in class for the cats (I know people running in stock class at sub-regional levels that are catless. Nobody really minds because they're not kicking ***.), you'll need to get a rule book and tune your suspension to the extent allowed in that class to be close to competative.

Don't kid yourself about not needing to win. You'll find soon enough that you want to beat SOMEBODY!

I agree with FPrep2ndGenRX7, Seat time is more important than any mod. I am still getting my *** kicked every event by guys in itty-bitty econoboxes with half the horsepower I have but six times the experience.

Get an alignment, though. It's a big help to have all the wheels pointing the same direction. And start looking for a spare set of stock wheels (or lighter) and some Kuhmos

Cory
jonesing for some seat-time since our May event was canclled

redstreak

Thanks for the help guys.

I'm going to go with the Illumina's then and keep the stock springs. As far as tires go, for now I'm just going to run on street tires on the stock 14's. Later I plan on buying some 16"rims. Once I buy the other rims I am debating on which rims to put some R compounds on. If I put the R compounds on the 16's then I keep the stock diameter and the car will handle and accelerate better. But if I slap some r compound tires on my 14's, say 215/60R14 then I am getting a good handeling tire with not a lot of weight, but since the diameter of the tire is a lot smaller it's going to be harder on the engine to get the car moving and I will be switching through gears a lot sooner.

Thoughts?

BhamBill

The smaller diameter tires will help you accelerate more quickly. You should still be able to run all but the fastest courses in second gear and the shorter tires will help off corners (it's not like you have an over-abundance of torque). Just go to as many events as you can and don't make too many changes. It gets hard to tell if you're improving or the car is.

Silkworm

Wait.. the 14s were 4 bolt lugs... All the 16s I've seen are 5..

?????

How are you going to do that? Oh, and what kind of tires are you going to run?

PaulC

Wankel7

Man, it is all about the car. When ever I try to get somebody to auto-x they say, "Well my car needs this and my car needs that."

IT is soooo driver dependant on the course. I have seen a 4 wheel drive subuaru beat a new carrea. That was cool

My point is this. When you first did auto-x your times probally dropped each time you did a run right? So what changed? Nothing on your car changed! You, the driver got slightly better.

Everytime you make a change to you car you are starting over in a little way. Because you have to get used to the modifications. If you spent money on a drivers education course it would be better spent than on supension mods. And you would probally have more money in the bank.

James