Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I have a suspicion that it is most definitely that 15A fuse. I did check all fuses, BUT, the guy that had the car before me did not use a wiring harness for the stereo installation, and did the biggest Horse hockey **** install of a head unit I have ever seen in an FC, the main power wire from the deck had a male spade terminal on it and was plugged into the fuse box. Im pretty sure it was the engine fuse, but I am gonna go through that entire fuse box again tonight. one quick question. If that 15 A fuse is blown or not present, the fuel pump would continue to pump fuel, but i would not get spark or injector pulse, is that correct?

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

forgot to mention in that last post. I went through and removed all the shitty stereo wiring and that may be causing my malfunction, I think the 15a fuse is blown, unseated, not making good contact, or something else preventing continuity

HAILERS

No, I don't see the fuel pump working if the Engine fuse is blown. Looking at that schematic I posted somewhere above, you see the 15a, X-07 fuse(ENGINE) and follow that wire (BW) to the Circuit Opening Relay. When the Circuit Opening Relay is pulled in when you go to Start, the contact closes in the Circuit Opening Relay, letting the 12v from the Engine fuse to pass to the L(blue) wire coming out of the Circuit Opening Relay, where it now goes to the fuel pump.

So the pump won't work without the 15a Engine fuse being installed.

I see the earlier schematic is for a 87 turboii. Sorry. Here is the n/a schematic this image was for another person some time ago. That's the reason for the green dots, although they show the path to the coils, so it does relate to you in that sense.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Ahh I see, that eliminates that 15A fuse then. Because the fuel pump is working with the ignition key to on. I plan on checking the relay once i get off of work today.

HAILERS

That's odd. The fuel pump should only run when the key is held to START, or the engine is running. Let the key return to ON, from START, and the fuel pump should stop running IF the engine did not start.

NZConvertible

Are you still using the J-spec fuel rails? If you are then you have the fuel lines the wrong way around! It doesn't matter if the spider's gone; it's the rails that are different. On J-specs the supply line from the filter goes to the secondary rail (which has the PD on it) and the return line comes from the primary rail (which has the FPR on it). You'll still need to sort out your spark issue, but a mate accidently switched the lines on his FC during a transplant and it wouldn't run until he figured that out.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Nope, using A-spec fuel rails

HAILERS

It probably does have something to do with your Main Relay, I suppose. If the two plugs are removed, the round plug, Ba-05 has two wires. The black/white is the one that should have 12v on it when the key is turned to ON. If that's there, maybe check to see if the ground is good on the pure black wire on the same connector. Those wires pull the coil in on the main relay. If they are good, look for 12v on the BG wire on the other connector to the main relay. If the BG is there...duh.

Can't help my self. You could just jumper the BG to the BY wire, on the four socket connector at the main relay. Then go to the lead coil assy and see if you have 12v at the little white connector(the black/yellow wire). If you do, heck, go back and also jumper the WL and BW wires on the same four socket connector at the main relay and fire that sucker up. VArooom, varooooooom. Yeah!

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

AAA HA!!! FIXED IT!! Listen to this. So i am checking the wires at the main relay and tracing them back to the engine compartment fuse block, when I notice the black and green wire from the 40 a fuse, it had been cut and a red wire was conected to it. Remember what i was sayin about the poor stereo installation the previous owner did? He cut the black and green wire, spliced in a red power wire, ran it through the firewall, to the stereo, and then ran another red wire from the stereo out the firewall back to the fuse block and connected it to the other end of the black and green wire. I took care of the situation by completely gutting the stereo this morning and reverting the wiring harness at the fuse block back to stock, the way it should be. The engine is pullin a **** load of vaccum, but will not start do to the fact that I have the vaccum hose from the BAC valve disconnected, I am currently in the process of plumbing it into my 3" TID.

HAILERS

Good for you. The following words won't help you, but......My salvage turboii. I rebuilt and installed a engine in it. Went to start it. No start. Mucked around under the dash and found where squid breath prior owner had installed a aftermarket alarm sys. Lost my head and just started cutting and ripping out anything that wasn't stock under there. Found some good Bosch relays and a lot of wire splices and made it stock again. VAroooooom. Started. I can see how if I hadn't had prior experience fiddeling around on the rx where this could have been a bid problem. I hate under dash work. My body does not like it.

Good luck. Hope the engine isn't tooooooo floooded. Makes for hard starting even with spark. Might have to put a little oil in the combustion chambers.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

I think it is flooded at the moment. when I crank it it is SOOO close to starting, I can hear it, just like it is about to turn over but just doesnt do it. gonna pull the plugs and fix that up. What else could it be?

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Hey NZ, I was just looking at the J-spec fuel rails, the secondary fuel rail has what looks to be the fuel pressure regulator, it has a vaccum nipple on it, the primary rail has what looks to be the pulsation damper, are they still supposed to be backwards? Note: these are not on the car, they are sittin in my parts bin, you just sparked my curiosity

HAILERS

If it's making the sound of wanting to start, then it's just flooded. Either a fuel cut switch is called for or you can pull the fuel pump plug off, floor the car, spin the engine. spray starter fluid in the intake prior to the air filter, start the car. Varoom. Spray again, varooom. Reconnect the fuel pump plug and start the car.

I know, pull Egi fuses etc. Just not my style. I'm stuck in my habits.

This car will start today......if the battery holds up. That's why I use starter fluid. Saves the starter, wear and tear.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I always pull the fuses and crank it myself. works best, gonn start sprayin some damn carb cleaner.....

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

IT'S ALIVE!!!! Hailers, you were right, it did start today!. went back, unflooded the engine, double checked all connections, I did have a vaccum line that I neglected to plug in, took care of that, held it to the floor and cranked. It started right up! loud as hell! after a few short revs, let it idle, it died and my boost gauge was acting erratic, come to find out that I had forgotten to install my split air pipe block off plate. Installed the block off plate and it started on the second crank and held a PERFECT 750 RPM IDLE! boost is registering on my aftermarket and OEM gauge, currently the boost controller is set at .4 BAR (playing it safe for a couple hundred miles) took it out under its own power the first time last night, it was absolutely awesome!!! Thanks goes out to everybody that helped me out on this thread in getting another 10th AE on the road. Most notably and deserving special mention are HAILERS, HYPNTYZ7, and of course the always helpful NZConvertible. Pictures and videos coming soon!

HAILERS

Isn't that a rush when the darn thing starts. You've jsut given birth and it's a big stappin baby boy RX weighing in at 2800lbs.. Good trouble shootin' on your part.

After some miles get put on, let us know what you think of the new? turbo. Where did you buy it, how it compares to the stock etc. Happy motoring.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

I purchased the turbo from Dave Gibson of FC3s.org. It was the upgraded turbo on project86. According to dave, it is a T04E 60-1 HiFi Hybrid turbo. It is the biggest hybrid turbo I have ever seen. As for driving the car at low boost levels, the boost response is nearly instantaneous. ill have more once I get the finishing touches on the car over the next week.

banzaitoyota

Thats actually NOTA944's turbo, he sold it to dave
It is a sweet unit though

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

REALLY???? So what are all the exact specs on it. I want to know all the details

NZConvertible

That's curious. My fuel rails definitely run opposite to US cars (had the UIM off the other day), and I've heard it referred to numerous times here. Maybe it was only on some years. Who knows what those Mazda engineers were doing!

Glad to hear your car's running.