Valkyrie

Well, I got my flywheel nut off this morning (my dad took it to a tire shop...), but can't get my flywheel off (that bastard is on there GOOD). We borrowed one puller, and even tried it with an impact wrench, that didn't work, and it also pulled part of my ring gear out (I knew there was something called a ring gear... but I didn't realize what it was till I bent it...), and I also fudged up what I think was the pilot bearing, good thing I ordered a new one anyway (I think).

We also tried using a harmonic balancer puller (much better idea), hammering, and even prying it off, but it didn't BUDGE. I bought two bottles of computer keyboard sprayer to try to freeze the eccentric shaft, but that hasn't worked, at least not without a puller... I've got one bottle left (5 bucks down the drain already...).

I guess tommorow the only thing I can do is beat the hell out of it with a dead blow hammer, or take a blow torch to it. My parts will also arrive tommorow, so I need this block apart soon.

Also, me and my dad had talked to a Mazda tech at the new dealership (not at the same time... he went before I did), and all he kept telling me was to give up on trying to rebuild it, and to buy a Mazda reman for $2700... like hell.

He said that rebuilding it would just have a broken engine again in 200 miles or something (due to leaks or something)... and this is coming from a Mazda-trained technician, who I know was trained to rebuild rotaries. He said that Mazda didn't allow them to rebuild rotaries anymore, or at least didn't advise it...

So is he full of crap and trying to sell me an engine, or is there some truth to it?

Then I asked if they had a thermostat for my car in stock, they said they might have one (although their parts shelves looked nearly empty), and then seemed to ignore me and went back to whatever they were doing before, instead of looking to see if there was a thermostat.

Funny thing is that I saw a black S5 (NA) heading in the opposite direction of me while I was going toward the dealership (rare for me, I've only seen 4 or so FC's in my area, and none driving), and then I saw what I think was the same car pass by a side-door of the dealership when I was waiting on the technicians...

Also, when I was on the way out, a salesman asked if I was looking to trade my car for a new one... LOL. Considering I've never even driven it, I'd say no

Maybe I should go gloat once I get it running for about 10K miles?... well, after I get that damn flywheel off.

BLKTOPTRVL

Depending on your skill level and experience you might get away cheaper by buying an engine from Mazda. If you had all that trouble getting the flywheel and HB off, it sounds like maybe you don't have the right tools for the job?

By the time you get the tools and replacement parts to do it right, you may spend more than it is worth, or as the mechanic said, you may end up doing the job two or three times for the cost of Mazda doing it once.

But if you want the experience, and don't mind doing it a few times, then maybe it is a good idea to do it yourself.

Valkyrie

I haven't got the flywheel off, and the reason it didn't come off isn't because we had the wrong tools, it's because it's on their WAY tighter than it's supposed to be...

Clearly someone overtorqued the nut, and probably used too much locktite (the engine was rebuilt before), because one guy my dad new said that normally it
ll pop right off with a puller...which it didn't, even when we used a high-powered impact wrench on it.

(Even 6+ feet worth of breaker bar couldn't get the nut off, and it took a 3/4" drive impact at a tire shop to get it off)

We weren't pulling any harmonic balancers... we were just using an HB puller on the flywheel (which by all means should have popped it off by now). That's after we used a three-claw puller that popped the ring gear out of place (after using an impact wrench bigger than my dad's electric), and messed up my pilot bearing...

rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

dam, i was having that same problem, i got a flywheel nut too and got the nut off, but i couldnt get the flywheel off pounded on it and stuff and gave up, but when it froze out side i was clearing out the space where it was and i pulled on it just for the hell of it and dam thing flew off.

GTR

iTrader: (6)

You should have just used the puller to put a little bit of tension on the flywheel and hit it with a dead blow hammer and it will pop off. It takes a couple of good wacks.

Valkyrie

We tried hitting it with a hammer (ball pin) with tension from the puller... although that was with the puller that fudged up the ring pin.

GTR

iTrader: (6)

You should be using the right puller with the right adapter. Be careful not to damage the ecetric shaft. When I removed my flywheel, it took about 5 minutes of wacking for the flywheel to pop off. It finally came off but the flywheel fell right on my knee. It happened so quick I didnt have time to react. Anyways, use the right puller and get a bigger hammer. The end is tapered so you need to give it a GOOD BIG WACK to free it

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i just used a sledge hammwe and a piece oif 2x4. it rang pretty damn good then fell right out. i beat the living **** out of it though.

kungfuroy

iTrader: (6)

Use a T type puller, there are some provisions in the flywheel where you screw bolts for the puller. I used bolts and a garage door bracket, drilling holes in the right places. Spray and let some wd40 soak where the flywheel and shaft meet, then WACK away. then Wack some more. Becarful, though they are heavy, they can fly!

Valkyrie

That's what we used... I just need to go borrow one again, or buy my own.

I wanted to use WD40 but the bottle was all out! I know there's another one around her somewhere but I couldn't find it.

And for the record, the flywheel still has the nut on it a little bit so it doesn't go flying (har har).

theantirotor

iTrader: (1)

what i did was use 2 bolts (from some engine part, dont remember which) and threaded them into the two holes in the flywheel. then you just tighten them both back and fourth tighter and tighter and the flywheel will pop off.

see the two holes, 180 degrees apart? those ones...



when you turn the bolts in they land right on this metal surface, just outside the seal



no hammering needed.


air tools make this a walk in the park.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not always, i have seen them on there quite good that bolts would just flatten out and damage more components.

what i suggest, since the flywheel sounds unusable now since the ring gear is fubared is, take a propane or preferably a acetylene torch and heat up the flywheel around the eccentric shaft and place a prybar between the flywheel on one side of the engine forcing the flywheel away from the engine and beat the **** out of it with a sledge hammer on the opposing side. alternate sides now and then if it still won't budge and very importantly thread the flywheel nut on a few threads to keep the flywheel from hurting someone when it does give way.

and i do mean BEAT THE **** OUT OF IT! flwheels are a dime a dozen, i have one i can send for a few bucks plus postage if you need one.


btw, why send someone who sounds to hate rotaries to be a tech for them? your local "mazda dealer rotary tech" sounds like he has had more than a few bite him in the ***, typical sounds of a quitter auto technician when something gets the better of you...

Syonyk

The method I've used to remove all my flywheels:

1. Put the nut on a few turns. 30# of metal hitting your feet won't feel good.
2. Pry on one side of the flywheel with a good prybar. Wedge it behind the flywheel, and lever off the side of the rear iron.
3. Hit the opposite side of the flywheel with a hammer. Don't be afraid to use something large, though a smaller hammer will usually work. Don't hit the friction surface or the ring gear, hit the unfinished part. The flywheel should pop right off.

And I have somewhere over 20k miles on my rebuilt engine.

If you don't know already, www.mazdatrix.com is probably the best place to go for stock replacement parts (and a good load of aftermarket parts too). They know what they're talking about, and have OEM replacements for things like thermostats without any dealer-related BS. Remember (though this is more true for 3rd gens, it applies to any rotary car): The dealer hates seeing your car as much, if not more, than you hate taking it there.

-=Russ=-

theantirotor

iTrader: (1)

so you have tried this? I have done it and it seems to work well for me... i havent tried it a bunch of times though. maybe you are right.


it just seems to me that it would be a little less damaging than going ape **** with a torch and hammer

slpin

iTrader: (9)

i wouldnt want to pry on it... just hit it a few times with a hammer... you wont break the flywheel in half

slpin

iTrader: (9)

"He said that rebuilding it would just have a broken engine again in 200 miles or something (due to leaks or something)... and this is coming from a Mazda-trained technician, who I know was trained to rebuild rotaries. He said that Mazda didn't allow them to rebuild rotaries anymore, or at least didn't advise it..."


i wouldnt allow him to rebuild a rotary either!

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

Ok so when i changed my clutch and rear main seal, i tried beating on it with a rubber and metal hammer, prying the crap out of it and even considered getting a puller (which i didnt have), and so i decided to look in my haynes manual for any ideas (i usually use three or four references for doing work on cars, internet, FSM, haynes, chilton, etc) and they recommended if i didnt have the correct puller that i should place a pry bar behind the flywheel and pry a little bit and turn, then pry a little bit and turn it a little bit, and you know what? after about 3 or four complete rotations that bitch just popped right off, with no real hard effort, i know your probably thinking, well i ALREADY tried that, but hey give it a wuick shot, if it doesnt work you can scratch one more thing you tried off your list

Mombodogs

Try a slidehammer or a three-lip bearing puller and an impact gun. Centering pin on puller if adjusted correctly , should be self centering. Set gun on lowest setting, and after a zip- zip on gun, tap gently (on flywheel face) for vibration purposes. Believe it or not, the gentle tap with constant applied pressure will be more effective than severe blows. Pressure and vibration will , from experience with similiar situations, work better and quicker than anything. Be sure to use a deep penetrating rust spray prior to attempts.

PEACE THE DOG

MARTIN

Guy I've done this countless times... Since it didnt come out with a few blows, then you get the biggest hammer you have, get a nice heavy pry bar and from one side pry it firmly, from the opposite side bang the fukin hammer on the flywheel very fukin hard untill it comes out... It is guaranteed to fukin work... IF you were in miami I would go there and do it for you..

Mombodogs

Relax Martin, get a mosquito with a little plague mixed in? What works for you is you, guys just asking for a hand.

PEACE THE DOG

RETed

He's full of ****.
We have 16-year old rebuilding engines in here!
Wait, bad example...

As for the flywheel...you're not banging it hard enough.
If I can get one off with a *regular* hammer in 3 whacks, you're too much of a gurlie mahn!
muHUAUHaUHHUAHUHUAa


-Ted

SureShot

BAM!

MARTIN

Guy WTF is your problem.... you always have something stupid to fukin say.... What works for me IS WHAT FUKIN WORKS...

MARTIN

Thank you.... self explanatory

Mombodogs

Martin, you're right! What works for you, works for you. I'm not into beating the crap out of every piece of my engine to prove what works. You stick with your methods, and I'll stick with mine. I can't remember the last time I had to replace a hydraulic shaft because it bent, or broke, cause I couldn't get the spline and seal off. Oh, thats right. Never have!

PEACE THE DOG