Oh yea and with that setup they run 1.0065 g's (up from stock of .865 g's). They're using a tire pressure of 42 psi up front and 32 psi in the rear, wheels are 16X7.

Here's what they said (the full setup)...The RX-7 shock absorber's top rubber mounting block is eccentric; by re-positioning it, one can slightly adjust camber and caster. To do this, raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove the rubber cap on the suspension tower over the shock absorber, and remove the four nuts holding the shock's top mounting block to the suspension tower. The dot indicator is usually pointed toward the inside front of the engine compartment. Turn the mounting block until the dot indicator is pointed to the inside rear of the engine compartment. This will increase caster by 30' to 45', changing it from tire factory setting of 4degrees 40' to about 5degrees 30'.

Next, finger tighten the top shock mounting block nuts. Now, loosen the ball joint to lower control arm bolts and nuts, the knuckle-to-shock absorber bolts and nuts, and the two bolts holding the rear bushing of the front lower control arms. Then pull outward at the bottom of the tire and push in at the top. While you're holding that under light tension, tighten all the bolts and nuts to the following torque values: ball joint to lower arm, 69 to 86 ft-lb; knuckle to shock absorber, 69 to 86 ft lb; rear bushing of the front lower control arms to cross member, 43 to 54 ft-lb; and shock mounting block to suspension tower, 17 to 22 it lb. This process will put all of the factory tolerances in your favor, and give you maximum legal negative camber.

The RX-7's front suspension alignment specifications call for a total toe in of 3 mm, plus or minus 3 mm (0.12", +/0.12"). We found that the steering response and cornering performance of the car improved with a setting of zero toe.

The rear suspension of the RX-7 is of the independent, multi-link, semi-trailing arm type with coil springs and a stabilizer bar. The rear suspension alignment specifications call for negative 0degrees 44' of camber and a toe setting of zero, plus or minus 3 mm (+/- 0.12"). We found the standard rear camber setting to be sufficient, but eventually adjusted the rear toe setting to toe-out of 3 mm (+ 0. 12"). The torque value for the rear control arm to subframe was 46 to 70 it lb. This setting helped reduce understeer on the skidpad without upsetting the RX-7's balance on the handling oval or autocross course.

And they used Yoko's A008 tires

 

Damn...I haven't been on this thread in a while....keep it going. My wheels came in today...going to put them on.

I will let everyone know if it fits.....(probably have to roll the fenders).

 

i have 235/45/17's on my vert with no problem not sure what the offset is i bought them used i have aftermarket struts and springs its tight very tight on the inside its about 11/2 inch from hitting the strut but have yet to have it rub driving very aggressive.

 

I installed the wheels....the offset is 35....Damn, they look TIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am going to start a new thread....

 

Thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=124693

 

oh...last thing to add....you CAN fit a 235/45 in the front...NO PROBLEMS. It doesn't even rub. +35 offset is PERFECT for the front!

 

Sorry to sound stupid. Negitive offset means a bigger lip right? If thats so whats the stock offset? IS offset measured from the middle of the rim? You can probally tell I just went to the tire store and forked up a big check for wheels, huh.

 

Now that all depends.....

Here are some site that can assist you:
http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace
http://customwheelsmarket.com/tirefaqs.html

 

I noticed that some wheels have different offsets regardless if it has a lip or not, it all depends on the wheels back spacing and offset. BBS RC run a 42 offset for 17x8 for a 2nd gen. Others run 30, 32, etc.

 

I`m running 225/45/17 in front with 5 mm spacers...we are making thoe spacers, 5mm even work with stock studs...

 

No explanation, just facts. I have 17x8 TSW Hokenheims, w/40mm offset and 235-40-17 toyo RA1s. Car is all the way down on GC coil overs(+/-1.5" down) on KYB yellows. 3/16 spacer to clear collars, no rub...With collars 3/4" higher no spacers, no rub... Carl

 

Carl.

Do you have a blk FC?

 

You seem to know about tolerances, what CAN I run without rubbing on my 88 vert. with stock everything that I might lower 1" eventually with some Eibach springs. I will be getting 17" wheels BTW and would like deep looking ones in the back, kind of like how the M3 version Z3 BMW`s run.

John

 

IO run 235 nt sure what offset. Got them on the car when i bought it. They do rub if i turn the wheel ALLL the way in. Im thinking of downsizing anyhow the wheels are too bling bling for my liking.

 

i have an 87' FC and all the wheels i like are fro FWD cars, and the people a the wheel place sya if i out those FWD wheels on a RWD car that it wouldn't work and ride would be shi**y. Would it really matter?

 

Enkei RP-F1 imported from Japan
Front 235/40/17
Rear 255/40/17

 

Anybody have a link to a rim/rubber calculator specific to our cars?